WHAT I SAW ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF KAWHIA HARBOUR. [BY OUR RAGLAN CORRESPONDENT.]

Waikato Times, Volume XIX, Issue 1617, 14 November 1882, Page 2

WHAT I SAW ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF KAWHIA HARBOUR. [BY OUR RAGLAN CORRESPONDENT.]

Some months have now elapsed since I wrote an account of a trip which I wade to the country on the northern side of Kawhia Harbour. The same was subsequently published in your journal. I then described more particularly what I saw* between the bays of Aotea and Kawhia. My experience at that time, however, only served to strengthen the wish I then cherished, that my journeyings should not terminate at that place, but that I should penetrate into the country beyond, and crossing the bay of Kawhia, visit a portion of this colony, which if not wholly unknown, may nevertheless be deemed comparatively so, for as yet the number of Europeans who have passed through it is limited. At the present time I am of opinion that more difficulty is experienced in gaining permission from its occupiers to travel over it, than there would have been twenty years ago. At that time the Maoris were far from being so jealous of their possessions as they now are. They have now learned to rightly calculate the aggressive power of the white man, and view with watch tul interest any ad\ance which the pakeha now makes into their territory, dreading their object in doing so. Again, Hauhauism had not then taken hold of their consciences, filling their minds with a fanatical hatred of their Eiuopean neighbours, Having secured the good-will of one of the most influential chiefs in Kawhia, my passport was procured, and with a prospect of favourable weather I early embraced the opportunity thius afforded me of seeing the country I shall now write about. To say much about the country I saw on my way to Maketu would be but a recapitulation of what I have pteviously written on this subject. Suffice it to say that the opinion I have already expressed with regaul to it remains unchanged, viz., that the whole of it is more iitted for pastoial than agiicultural purposes, and that it is bettei suited for Maou than European cultivation. The only portion which could lie profitably tilled by Europeans would be that stiip of laud, about 2000 acres in extent, and of excellent quality, which is between the haibouis of Aotea and Kawhia, going by the name of L'akari* Kari. The appearance of the wheat crops there this season bear sufficient testimony to piove the tiuth of this assertion. At Maketu a native meeting was being held. About two hundred natives wore present, and busily employed at the time of my anival in the sitisfaetion of their gastronomic desires. The smell of soaked maize, upon which they were feeding, was disagreeably oppressive, and when asked to paitake of fish and potatoes, of -n hicii there was a large quantity, I found considerable difficulty before doing so in overcoming the nausea thereby created. From the number of elaborately tattooed Maoris I noticed I was soon led to believe that a large number of chiets were gracing the festivities by their presence. Living as they do in a state of communism, all do not share and share equally, and in a general sense, the most dainty portion of the viands, were appoitioned to these persons whoappeaa'd to hold the first places in the community. Immediately after the meal a large canoe arrived from Oparau with three-quarters of a ton of fish of various sorts on board, kahawai, kumukunm, flounder, stiugeray, sehnapper, yellowtail, and dogfish were amongst the number. On the canoe touching the &trand the women at once commenced to unload, for, as soon as the shore was reached, the work of the men was over. In this respect the division of labour among-st the Maoris bears close resemblance to that which still exists in some parts of Scotland, between the fishermen and their wives, when on gaining the shore the work of the fisherman is over till the boat again goes to sea. The late Capt. J. C. Johnstone, whose work entitled "Maoria" I have lately read with much intere&t, in writing on this subject says that the seas which surround Maoria are less bountifully supplied with fish than the waters of the northern hemisphere, and that the numerous bays and harbours on the East Coast are better supplied than the two j estnaries and the few harbours on the West. I believe this to be strictly true. If we have not quantity, we have, however, quality. The fish of this coast are of infinitely better quality than thosp on the east, probably because the occidental seas are of a lower temperature. Occupied as the natives were with the preparations for the meeting on the morrow, when the real business for which it had been called wa» to be discussed, I fqund. it impossible to procure the services qf any person, to ferry me across to the southern side of Kawhia harbour. Being assured, however, by one of the most influential chiefs present, that my, wishes would be accommodated early next day, and having been offered com for table quarters for the night, I determined to 'proceed no further that day. I should have before mentioned that I .had for a companion Mr Thompson, of Ruapuke. Just as the gun, was making his appearance on the following day.-we took' our .places in a 3)lendid canoe, provided for us: by Mr owell, a son of one of Kawhia's earliest ssettlcrs. t .Our, gm<l%v>«W*9*.*! 1 ' European .who inight^ with . .propiiajjy be called a J?akeha-Maori; one ""oftliQseworthless fellows,? who> jfroinj so ne cause whioljjta.nips.frpas^it &£p]te,{or

them to conceal find/ it" advantageous to sever themselves" * from' 'all intercourse witli their own people, and live a life of laziness 1 , otfnir .immorality amongst the natives. They have no respect for themselves, and consequently do not gain such .from/ their pojiipanfons, for the Maoris have intelligence' enough to comprehend that, in, the great majority of instances, if the lives of such men had been more blameless, they would now be seeking a subsistence in some more respectable way than preying upon their good nature. Not a breath of wind disturbed the waters "of the beautiful harbour as we paddled across it. The aspect of the country on the southern side of the bay appeared to improve. as we drew nearer to it. The landscape of the surrounding country, viewed. from the centre of the harbour, is one of surpassing beauty. The snn on this morning rising behind the mountains covered the sky with a cold silvery light, against which the peaks stood out in bold relief, whilst their bases were still veiled in gloom. The sharp peak of Karioi, and the rugged summit of Pirongia lifted their tieads'now bright with the morning sun. Towards the Waipa the country on the banks of the Kauri and Awaroa stretched away in a gradual undulating Hue, while in the distance, towards the south, shot out isolated peaks and ridges all clear and well defined. Lost for a time iii the admiration of the magnificieut scenery, we soon found ourselves close to the shore. We landed at a place where the action of the waters has smoothed the rocky bank in such a manner as to form an excellent wharf. Overhanging it were some splendid specimens of the pohutnkawa (metro* sideros tomentosa) standing on the summit of the rocky cliff in defiance of the severe storms of wind which must at times assail their situation. The first settlement we visit is Takatahi, near which at one time dwelt Mr S. A. Joseph, M.L.C., of Sydney. Not a vestige of his residence now remains, although several of the improvements which he effected on the property are still visible. On reaching the village, breakfast was tendered to us by its Inhabitants. This was acceptable. I was surprised to see the quantity of meat which had been preserved, by simply, as far as I noticed, first cooking it and subsequently pouring boiling fat on it, (after having put it in tins) until it was completely covered. In this state it will keep in a fresh condition for a year. My palate would, however, refuse to relish it ; the operations consequent upon its preservation not being conducted with a sufficient legard to cleanliness. Further down the bay is Maika where a few natives also live. The laud there is excellent, and shows indications of being well adapted for sheep. We had observed from a considerable distance, the flagstaff which was erected in 1837, at winch time several vessels were trading between the port and move distant parts of the colony, and made up our minds to make a close inspection of it. On doing so wo found it to be made of pnriri, .and still perfectly sound, patiently waiting for the day when the restrictions now upon the harbour will be no more, and commerce shall again reach the district around it, at present lying useless from the manner in which it is locked up. Around Maika rat- tail grass has in moat places completely outgrown and eradicated the natural fern, acres upon acres being thickly covered by it. I almost imagine that some farmers who are now battling to do what this grass has done, will read such news with much gratification. It is nevertheless not an unmixed blessing, for the grass itself is very hard to eradicate when once fairly established, and makes the ground extremely hard to break up. When burned off in the early spring, it grows during the summer, and while young, it is eaten with much rcIUU by cattle and sheep. Not far from here a large sperm whale had been driven ashore, and had died on the beach. He was 50 feet in length, 200 gallons of oil had already been taken from him, and provided he had ceased his journeyinga at a more convenient station, where the means could have been procured to. properly dispose of all the blubber, a much larger quantity might have been preserved. From this settle* ment a fine view may be obtained of the entrance to the harbour, and in future times I can imagine that from the character of the place, it will become a favourite resort for pleasure or picnic parties. (To be continued.)