KHYBER PASS

Wairarapa Times-Age, 18 March 1940, Page 10

KHYBER PASS

WHERE BRITAIN STANDS GUARD ELOCKING RUSSIA’S GATEWAY TO INDIA. IMPORTANCE IN PRESENT WAR. Britain’s Indian stronghold has gained added importance in view of Russia’s new expanionist policy. The following article by C. A. Wiseman is condensed from the Sydney “Sunday Sun": — The Khyber Pass may not have been the route for every invasion of India from the North-west, but it has been for centuries the trade route to India from Central Asia, and it is full of romance. Through here have passed the caravans of “kafilas,” sometimes two miles long, of heavily-laden Bactrian camels, with double humps, bullocks and asses, with attendant drivers and their families.

Ten miles from Peshawar, guarding the entrance, stands the mud fort of Jamrud. resembling a battleship from the distance, with walls more than 10 feet thick.'and complete with bastions double gates, and hornworks. Here one pays a toll, signs a travellers’ book, and. produces the special permit that has to be obtained from lhe political agent for Khyber in Peshawar. From Jamrud to the Afghanistan frontier, a distance of 24 miles by road, we cross the administrative boundary of tribal territory clearly marked by white pickets, indicating the limits within which the traveller must keep, if the Government is to assume any responsibility for his safety. As we drove along I recalled the intonation of the inspector at Jamrud as he wished me a rather dismal “good-bye," but drew comfort from lhe presence of the string of British forts perched high on the surrounding hills. The tribesmen, fierce-looking and picturesquely dressed with their bright coloured scarves, or “lungis,” worn as turbans, ai - e an interesting and unique type, always equipped with long-bar-relled rifle slung over shoulder, and ammunition round waist. These are manufactured in Afghanistan for a ridiculously low figure, and the British are powerless to enforce the licensing of arms within this area.

Clans are interspersed along the Pass, living in houses made from mud, for wood is scarce, even cooking being done by burning dry cow dung where procurable. Each clan has its separate leader and each individual dwelling 1= a miniature fort, complete with walls, loopholes, turret, and over-vigilant sentry. It is to these clans that the Government is obliged to pay annual subsidies for the ensurance of order; which, however, is no guarantee against intertribal clashes, which occur continually on all parts of the Northwest Frontier.

Thus it is that the Pass is open to caravan traffic on two days a week only, when they are escorted by “Khassanders,” or guides, who also picket the hills and keep vigil during the nocturnal halt against marauders and attack. I was exceptionally fortunate to view such a passage, and noted the alertness and precautions taken. Leaving Jamrud, the road is crossed by the railway, the next crossing, however, being 10 miles further on. The Pass is not merely a valley between’ hills, but rises to 3,600 feet at the Landi Kotal fort, from which the road descends steeply to Landi Khana and (he frontier. In the ascent' the road runs through truly magnificent scenery, along a limestone gorge, crosses ravines, follows tumbling mountain streams, winding its way through a veritable labyrinth of Nature’s impediments, while above tower the jagged peaks and crests of sheer cliff faces. Owing to the shortage of water the Government has built tanks and a pumping slation which is heavily guarded, and along the walls of the ravine are to be seen tablets placed by military officers as a record of their term of office in the Pass. At Landi Kotal 1 descended, and by permission mounted the highest turret commanding a glorious view into the rolling hills and plains of Afghanistan, but was not permitted to linger, as (he return to Jamrud had to be effected by ■I o'clock that afternoon, when the Pass is closed to traffic. Continuing on to the frontier proper just beyond the fort, of Landi Khana. we pass through a deep valley, followed by several waterfalls, which must have'presented obstacles to invading forces. Now a panorama of glorious irregularity and rugged beauty unfolds itself. Barbed wire entanglements and a conspicuous white signboard inform one that further procedure can only be accomplished by compliance witli Hie necessary passport regulations, which the native errant population heed not one whit.

Here I chatted with the Indian passport officer and toll collector, and managed to persuade them to allow me to walk a few hundred yards or so through into Afghanistan.

Unfortunately, the railway was not open on that day, and I was compelled

to -return as I had come. I regretted this bitterly, for, though only 261 miles in length, it was constructed at a cost of two million sterling and has 34 tunnels, with 92 bridges and culverts, exciting lhe admiration of foreign engineers who had hitherto considered it an impossible undertaking.