HARDY CYCLAMEN

Wairarapa Times-Age, 8 April 1938, Page 5

HARDY CYCLAMEN

DAINTY COLOURING. Though there is not much in flower on the rock garden at present, the various autumn flowering species of hardy cyclamen make nice patches of dainty colouring. These form . bold tufts of thick leathery foliage, in many cases beautifully marbled, and produce quantities of neat little flowers on thin stalks about four inches in height, the colours varying through all shades of white, crimson and pink. They are perfectly hardy and will thrive on the rock garden in a soil composed of leaf-mould and old mortar rubble, and they prefer semi-shad-ed position. They will also grow among dwarf shrubs and under deciduous trees. Cyclamen naepolatinum, some times called Hedieefolium or ivyleaved cyclamen, produces dainty rose-pink flowers in the autumn, these being followed by silvery variegated ivy-like foliage. There is a white-flow-ered variety, C. Europseus. Swiss cyclamen, which has pretty 'evergreen foliage and masses of reddish flowers in the autumn. It grows in great in great profusion on the mountains of South Europe. C. graccum is a neat species from the mountains of Greece. The flowers are white with a purple spot at the base of each. C. Coum has round olive-green foliage and pretty crimson flowers which appear in winter or early spring. The spring flowering species are C. ibericum and its varieties (roseum, rubrum and C. repandum). Another desirable rock plant for autumn flowering is Verbens chamaedryfolia, a creeping plant with bright scarlet flowers freely produced. It is a native of Brazil and is a bit tender in the winter. It soon recovers and is flowering freely at the present time. It can be increased by means of cuttings put into a sand frame or under a bell glass in a bed of sand now. SOWING LAWNS WORK FOR THIS MONTH. April is an ideal month for sowing lawn grass seeds. They germinate well in the cooler weather which may be expected from now on, and soon the site will be well covered with a mantle of green. By sowing now the grass should be well established by spring. It is necessary that the site be dug. weeded, levelled and made firm by rolling, and “fine” by raking. Not less than. 11 ounces of seed per square yard should be used. Many prefer to sow two ounces more for that area. It is a great mistake to sow the seed too sparsely. After the seeds are sown they are covered by raking the soil, then the surface is gone over with a light roller. Germination will be so rapid at this season of the year that birds will not be very troublesome. It certainly pays to purchase the best grass seeds, for these alone will provide a sward of tine grasses. THE CARNATION TRIALS OF GROWERS. The greater part of the losses which have occurred among carnations during the past season have been due to stem rot. Many plants grown to full maturity, and even in full bud, suddenly collapsed owing to stem rot developing just above and below the surface soil. The plants lived on until every vestige of pith and sap had been exhausted, but on being lifted there was no sign of any pest, either on the stem or in the surrounding soil. Even varieties in perfectly drained beds have been affected. This complaint often happens to the least robust varieties, or when in layering rather too deep a cut was made, and persistent wet followed the planting. The roots are sound enough, but the continually damp conditions undermine the strength of the plant and nothing can stop the decay once it starts. As soil on the heavy side is best suited to carnations even a little clay adding to the glaucous hue ol the foliage—it is apparent that deep digging in order to obtain efficient drainage is necessary. The beds should also

be raised a few inches to assist in what is so essential to their well being. Where new ground is being prepared for their reception it would be of the greatest advantage if the layers could be potted up for the winter and planting delayed until the spring. A dressing of lime could also be given to the bed. This not only sweetens the soil but frees valuable plant foods, making the final preparations in spring much easier. Old mortar or plaster rubble containing some of the coarser parts, and a sparing quantity of old manure, well incorporated before the bed is finely and firmly finished, will improve the texture.

At planting time, a dressing of superphosphate —two ounces to the square yard—and a light dusting of this in the hole before putting in the plant, will show its tonic action in the increased vigour and growth which it undoubtedly induces. Too deep planting must be avoided, but firm pressure round the roots is the great requirement in order to give a strong roothold.

If layers are being transferred to other quarters this autumn, take up each one with a ball of moist soil intact. After carefully removing the layering peg, it is best to sever the layers from the parent plant and leave them fixed in the soil for a few days before lifting, in order that they may become accustomed to looking afterthemselves. The last weeks of March or the beginning of April will usually find the layers well rooted Ample space, about 15 inches, should be provided where possible and a good label placed to each plant. The sparrows often take a fancy to the young, tender tips of carnation foliage, and can do much damage in a very short time to a choice collection of varieties. If any damage is likely its it worth while to stretch some strands of block cotton over the plants as a protection. PERENNIAL ASTERS USEFUL FOR DECORATION. The Herbaseous perennials known as Michaelmas daises or perennial asters 'occupy an important place in the autumn garden, and when well grown they remain in flower for a long time, providing useful material for house decoration and also a display of pleasing colours in the flower garden. They are very hardy, and consequently arc often neglected and allowed to send up stems year after year, these being crowded with a few flowers on the end of the stem. To get the best results, they should be planted in an open though sheltered position in a well-manured soil, rather on the heavy side if possible. They should be lifted and divided up every winter, care being taken to put back vigorous pieces of young growth from the outside of the clump. If they are to be grown in the mixed herbaseous border, they should be planted in groups of three or five. They also do excellently in the shrubbery border, provided the soil is well manured every year, and they are very effective in a large border by themselves, where they can again be planted in groups of three to five plants. When growth starts in the spring are usually far too many stems sent up, and these should be reduced to from five to seven on the tali-growing varieties, seven to a dozen on the medium-grow-ing kinds, and the dwarf ones do not need any thinning at all. At first they should receive a temporary stake to prevent the young growths from being broken over by the winds, but later on the tall kinds should have a separate stake for each plant, these being fixed to slope outwards, so that there may be room for the side growths, which spring up all along the flower stem, to develop. They are liable to be attacked by mildew, which spoils the appearance of the plants, and spraying with sulphide of potassium, loz to two gallons of water, should be carried out at intervals of a fortnight for a month or six weeks before the flowers open. Beginning with the dwarf kinds, there is a comparatively new race of Novi-Belgi hybrids which form neat twiggy bushes of attractive foliage which are literally covered with attractive coloured flowers at the present time. These are not much more than a foot high, and are suitable for

providing an edging for the michaelmas daisy border and for small beds and groups on a large rock garden. Four of these are Lady Henry Maddock. Marjorie Nancy, and Ronald. The next section is the Amellus, which grows to a height of two to two and a-half feet with comparatively large flowers of brilliant colours which are produced over a long period. The best-known variety in this section is King George, with deep violet blue flowers, others being Beaute Parfait, which has large, flat violetpurple flowers, Perry's Favourite, pink and Sylvia, silvery pink. The Cordifolius section is not a large one, but it produces flowers very useful for rating. They form long, graceful sprays smothered with dainty star-like flowers. Silver Spray is one of the best of this section. Erocoides is also an attractive section forming neat bushes of dark green heath-like foliage and long, fairy-like sprays. Varieties are Blue Star, Perfection and White Heather. Novae Angliae is a very beautiful section with large flowers of brilliant colours, growing to a height of four to five feet. Barr’s Pink is one of the best varieties of this section, it having large, open flowers of brilliant rose-pink. It is the finest pink michaelmas daisy so far. Other varieties are Lil Fardell. rich pink, and Mrs S. T. Wright, a rich purple with golden centre.