BEEKEEPING.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LX, Issue 242, 10 September 1940, Page 10

BEEKEEPING.

PROFITABLE SIDELINE. Beekeeping is - one of the methods by which a farmer can diversify his product tion, increase his income and decrease his living expenditure, states 'a bulletin on “Beekeeping As a Sideline” issued by the Canterbury Chamber of Commerce. It is an occupation suitable for young or old, rich or poor, men or women,' who may seek profit and pleasure from its pursuit. At present there are in New Zealand approximately 5000 beekeepers, and as much as two million pounds of honey has been exported in ono year. 'The farmer should not launch out on too big a scale immediately, but should gain experience by starting with one or two colonies and becoming acquainted with tho rudiments of the art. Information may be obtained from text-books on the subject, of which there are quite a number, ft would be of great value and assistance to spend a day, or several days, with an experienced beekeeper in order to obtain some understanding of tho applicancos and methods used in beekeeping. WHEN TO START.

The spring is tho most suitable time to start, and early October is tho best month. Nothing is gained by obtaining colonies during the winter when the bees are dormant. Arrangement should be made early with some local beekeeper to supply colonics at the above-mentioned time. This, however, is an expensive method of starting, since the price of a colony is usually about 255, to which must bo added tho price of the hive body and frames with which the colony must be- equipped, making a total of 35s per hive. Owing to other beekeepers’ bad management, it is often )ios- ! siblo to take swarms which may settle j on the trees of one’s own farm, and this would be a much cheaper method of starting. However, if the colonies are obtained from soino reliable beekeeper - it is possible to get a guarantee that the colonies supplied are strong and healthy and they are more likely to be of a less vicious type. LOCATION OF HIVES. One cannot stress too strongly the importance of placing the hives in a suitable site. They should bo placed on the north side of some low shelter and be well protected from wind. High wind-breaks are usually unsatisfactory, being draughty underneath and too high for heavily laden bees to fly over. On no account should hives be placed in the shade of a hedge. Under these circumstances the bees tend to bo more vicious and have less chance of surviving the winter. Tho hive should bo set up with a slight cant forwards. This allows any rain which may have driven in to drain out of the front. Damp conditions in the hive may eaucc a certain amount of mouldincss. It is also necessary to sot up the hive on four bricks to allow free circulation of air underneath, and to prevent rotting of the bottom board. Naturally, the grass round tho hives should be kept scythed. The following material is necessary: A bee veil which can be made from black net or obtained from suppliers for 3s; a smoker costing from 8s to 15s; gloves costing 8s 6d a pair; and a hive tool which can be home-made, and is simply a wide chisel-like implement suitable lor levering out frames and for using as a scraper. Any other gear can be obtained as it is required. The gloves should be worn only until such time as the beginner has acquired sufficient confidence to work without them. Trying to grasp tho ends of the frames with clumsy gloves only tends to provoke ill temper in the bees, with consequent discomfort to the operator.

lIIVE PARTS. Hive parts can be obtained from bee suppiy merchants. These parts are all cut ready for assembly.' Dovetailed super parts can be nailed together in a few minutes to form the hive. Similarly, frames can be assemb.ed from the purchased parts. Several styles of frames are procurable, but the “Hodman,” because it is sell-spac-ing, is the most popular. The wiring of frames and sotting the foundation comb on to the wires necessitates skill, and the prospective beekeeper should get some practical instruction from one who has bad experience. The top super should be covered by a light sacking mat placed underneath the roof of the hive.

As the season advances, a single hive body will be insufficient for a colony and further atones, or supers as they are called, must be added to supply space for storage of honey and to avoid overcrowding of the bees. For those who do not wish to go to the expense of buying manufactured ■supers it may be mentioned that an ordinary petrol case is the exact size of the standard hive used in New Zealand and is easily converted for the purpose. Knock the broad sides off carefully and replace the top of the case, which will then form one of the sides. The sides of the case should be level all round and 10 inches deep. At each end, half an inch below the inside upper edges, a atrip of wood |-inch thick and about J-inch wide, should be nailed to suspend the frames. Hand grips should be nailed to each end. (To be continued.)