JOURNAL
Of an Expedition Overland from Auckland to Taranaki, by way of Rotorua, Taupo, and the West Coast, undertaken, in the Summer of 1849—50, by His Excellency the Gover-nor-in-Chief of New Zealand.[Continued from our last.) Monday, I'ecember 241 h —Rose at five, for the purpose of visiting the Lakes, lying to the eastward, and to hold a conference wilh the Ngatipikiao natives at Roto Iti upon the subject of their dispute with Ngatikereru. Although, to jiive time, we had prepared to start without breakfast, we were delayed till past six o'clock hy the ridiculous jealousy of the natives; the Ngalikereru people (who had obtained 1 ave to be present at the conference with their rivals) being extremely desirous that the pakeha parly should go in their canoes, on account of the increased importance they would obtain in the eyes of the opposing tribe, from the circumstance of their conveying the Governor and his suile to the scene of the korero ; whilst upon the ether hand I'otene and the Ngae parly were equally ambitious of the honor of giving a passage to His Kxcellency ftom their own pa; as the latter party had by far the best canoe, and the strongest, as well as the cleanest crew, we all of course preferred going with them, and this gave rise
to an expression of no small ill-feeling between the parties and a corresponding delay was the consequence. At length, however, all was arranged, and we set out on our expedition, His Excellency's flag floating from the Ngae canoe, to the immense satisfaction of Polene and his friends. We piddled to the eastern extremity of the lake and down a creek, about a mile in length, called Ohau by which the superfluous waters of Roto Ru.i are discharged, and communicate, through Roto Iti, by the Waihi creek, with the sea coast near Maketu, in the Bay pfyPlenty. The Lake of Roto "Hi,' lies in a direction nearly east and west, anil is divided into two portions—the eastern of which is the largest—by two promontories from the north and south shores, which form a passage of about half a mile in width. The western division, or that nearest to Roto Rua, and into which of course we entered first, is about six miles long by four wide j and the other probably eight miles by four or five, but the width of this part varies considerably in different places. On emerging from the creek the Lake of Rolo Iti presents a very pretty view. It was a beautifully calm morning, and the clear and glassy waters of the lake reflected like a mirror the karuka, pohutukawa, kohai and mamikau trees with which the notthern shore is thickly clothed. The margin of the lake on this side is steep, and the land above high and covered f r some distance inla d wi'h tl>e j abovementioiied trees, which may be reckoned amongst the most picturesque in foliage of any in New Zealand. The southern shore, on the contrary, is almost destitute of trees, and slopes uradually down to the water, presenting an appearance less picturesque than that of the opposite side. I Having paddled across the first portion of j the lake, which is uninhabited save by the | occupants of a few huts scattered thinly upon the southern shore, we passed through the passage which joins the two divisions. On the south promontory, which is highand precipitous, is the site uf an old pa, wheie some people are still living. The northern headland is wooded. About half a mile beyond this is a beautiful little island called Pateko. which has the appearance of a ruined castle, more especially on accouul of some small holes dug in the rock of which the island is composed, bearing, from their arched roofs, an exact resemblance Ito Gothic windows. This island was, in former days a sir. ng pa, but is now a burying place, the holes be ng used as graves though . they were originally dug for kumara stores. Some of the stakes of a strong fence which • ormerly surrounded- the island arc still standing in the water, and are now used as r. sting places by the cormorants and other fishing birds. We landed at about noon at the eastern extremity of the lake, at a settlement called Tapuaheruru, alias Te Tadne (The Town), at the back of which is a dense wood of tall forest treis. The chief of this settlement is called Kaipuke. Having breakfasted we started for Roto Ehu, which lies at a distance of about a mile and a half in an easterly diiection. The road is a fine clear open track cut through the wood—which is cal ed Tahuna—and is perfectly level. It was originally cut by the Ngapuhi, on the occasion of llongi's famous expedition to Rolorua, already mentioned, when they dragged their canoes over from the East Coast. half way through the wood, is stuck up by the road side to mark the spot where Te Kanewha. a chief of Ngatipikiao 'was killed on the abovenamed exped lion by a slave of Pomare's named Te Kakau. On the stone is hung an old rotten pmekc mat, which the natives say is the one which was actually worn by Te Kanewha at the lime of his death.
On arriving at Iloto Elm, we found we had to walk a distance of about two miles to the settlement, which is called Te Puia. consisting of a few wretched little huts, and scaicely any cultivation. I he chief, whoie 'name is Te Tikao, has a great reputation (in his own tribe) as a warrior, which it may be supposed, has tendered him to proud to attend to the appearance of his settlement and its cultivations, for certes a more squalid, ill-conditioned pi ce. I have rarely seen. We were not detained any time here, the natives having' foitunately nothing of any importance lossy,; so we set off at once to see Roto Ma, which j lies at a distance of between two and three miles in a southerly direction. On the road we fell in with a waituiki, or warm water bath, called Waitangi the waters of which are chalybeate. Here we had our first warm bath, which we found very refreshing, as the was excessively hot. On coming out of the | water we discovered that it was so late that ' we were obliged to give up the idea ol seeing Roto Ma. and set out without delay upon out jetnrn. We obtained a good view ofjlaig T"-.hu from a hill o'li'the road ; it is" a small lake* without anything particularly striking in its appearance j the noith and east shores are bold and rocky the south undulating and covered with fern, tupakihi, patches of wood, &c. ; and
on the west is the wood of Tahuna through which we passed on our way from Roto Iti. ! We stepped out at a good pace—after calling away our natives, much to their disgust, from a feast which was in course of preparation—and soon anired at Roto Iti, embarked in our canoes, and pulled to the settlement of Komuhumuhu on the southern shore, close to which is the disputed piece of land. Here a korero took place, which lasted about half an hour, and in the course of which the dispute was arranged, apparently to the satisfaction of all parties. This over we sat out for Te Ngae, which place we did not reach till after eight o'clock, owing to the distance, laziness of the natives, detentions and strength of the current in the Ohau creek. We found a comfortable cup of tea prepared by Mrs. Chapman, and a kind fekicome on our return. At about ten o'clock, Mr. Chapman arrived from Maketu, having only heard of our being at Rotorua late in the afternoon. Me was accompanied by a young chief called Te llaupapa, a perfect giant, and one of the largest and finest looking men I have seen amongst the New Zealanders. As he came into the room, with his majestic height, and erect, noble carraige, welcoming the Governor in a deep bass voice, the effect was certainly fine. He with llikairo and a number of other llotorua chiefs, had, as well a< Mr. t hapman, gone over to Maketu theie to await the Governor's arrival, and to escort him to their own country, they having heard that it was His Excellency's intention to travel by that route. (To be continued.)
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Maori Messenger : Te Karere Maori, Volume 3, Issue 56, 15 February 1851, Page 2
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1,417JOURNAL Maori Messenger : Te Karere Maori, Volume 3, Issue 56, 15 February 1851, Page 2
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