JOURNEY TO TAUPO.

Maori Messenger : Te Karere Maori, Volume 2, Issue 39, 20 June 1850, Page 3

JOURNEY TO TAUPO.

From Auckland. March 17th.—Haupapa has been employed this morning from an early hour in squeezing himself into one of my shirts, which tits the burly giant os tight as his own skin. Another present he has brought me too—a tiki, or greenstone figure, of m.ut ungodly aspect. These ornamen's are worn round the neck, and are very highlv valued by the iUaones, so that althou»li it is' not of much use to me, it is doubtless considered a very handsome ollcring. Rein.' Sunday, we are still halted, and wiiiit .e exception of Chapel hours, are attended by the whole population, who hold a continual levee at our tents. Haupapa rushes out now and then, and drives away hordes of boys, but it is of no use-like flies—as many fame again. Nothiii" escapes their observation,—they watch everv motion of the pakeh.is with most intense pertinacity, commenting tlicrcnn wiili much apparent satisfaction. Our friend Korakora has arrayed his nether man m an old pair of regimental trowscrs, with a brown patch on the seat, and cut off at the knees, while upon his swarthy legs are drawn a pair ol the priest's black cotton stockings garteu-U ti-'hlly up, and he seems, to use a vulgar saying, to think " No small beer of himself, in his Suudav finery. Deforo leaving Ohinimutu I may as well here introduce an extiact from my journal on my former visit to this place, which may amuse people who have taken the double to read thus far of my present scribble. "On the morning on lhelslh(August),nfter beiiv delayed some hours by heavy rain, started from Tngai for the pal. of Ohin.n.utu, distant about nine miles, where many hot springs are situated. , The load is good, runnine through lorn land round the margin of the lake. After walkiii" for some eight miles we came upon the first boiling spring, which bubbles up about a foot from the hole in the rock bom whence il emerges, into a basin winch forms an excellent natural ba'h I'>to this Culpeppa immediately immersed his greasy person, tnioviiig the warm temperature, of the water, after his the greatest apparent zest. The inarnin'vsf the lake, and the surface of the ground'near these spring* is covered with sulphur, much of which was in nearly a pure stale, liv scraping small holes in the s-.nl. of the lake, above high watermark, the wm in water rises in great profusion, whilst close by a similar operation produced water intensely About a mile further on we arrived at Ohinimutu, leaving to our ieft many hot springs, the steam of which forms a constant dinso cloud, and emits a very strong sulphuric stench. The chief of the pah welcomed us /cry kindly, giving us at once food—l. volnioi-s and kumeras, an empty warree to

sleep in, and he also pitched a tent for our followers. This pah must formerly have heen of considerable extent and stienglh. It abounds with the large carved grotesque figures with which the Muori'JS are fond of decorating their settlements, and most of the dwelling houses and stores were most elaborately ornamented in the like manner. I regretted much ihat our hurried stay prevented my taking sketches of the most remarkable of these. Inside the area of this pah hot springs of different degrees of temperature, varying as high as 210°, bubbla up in every direction, rendering moving about at night excessively dangerous to any person not acquainted with their locality. Carrying aqueducts from some of these, the natives have supplied a number of baths hewn fiom the rock, in which (he population both young mid old seem to pass tho greater part of their time. In one of these 1 counted nineand twenty young ladies from five to twenty years of age, enjoying themselves in the co jlume in which they were born, with the discussion of their evening meal, consisting of potatoes and kumeras boiled in a similar spring to that which supplied the basin in which they laved their pretty persons. In consequence of tliU constant cleansing from the bath, these people present a striking contrast to the New Ztalanders gener-illy, and a perfect exemption from our constant plagues, —fleas and lice, in our warree, proved to be indeed a luxury. Our provisions \vc had cooked in one of these natural boilers, from which no unpleasant taste resulted ; although the steam rising from them seemed strongly impregnated with tulphur. Although so cleanly, the people are generally more or less scro:ulous. A pretty little girl, daughter of the chief, who was partial, iarly attentive in miming about for water, and fire for us, was suffering from a very large soio in the neck, which much disfigured this otherwise interesting child. She was a laughing merry little witch, displaying when she smiled a set of beautifully while teeth, which many a duchess might have envied. Alas ! poor 15 Marie ! had'st thou been born but twenty ye.us ago, the principal use of liiose pretty pearly lecih of tliine would have been to pick the bones of thy ft How creatures, or mnyh.ip might have graced the necklace of some 'brutish cnnnibal who would have devoured thee !** I\larthlßth.—We started early i" the morning from this village of steam, and puimod our way for some time over a flat, about which numberless hot springs were bubbling. Proceeding onwards towards Tuupo, we passed through every variety of ground—forest—tern hills—and plains covered with withered stunted grass. While wending our way along the base of the Ilora Hoia range of mountains, several large trees toppled over from the summit of the clilVs, and 101 l crashing down to the dark depths of the forest below. At nightfall we hivouaced on the bank of a small stream, mid soon fell asleep. Heside the path, a? we walked along this day. we saw four old Maori cooking places, and as many stones placed at the head of each, marked the spot were several female captives were here formerly slain and devoured by I heir fellow men. Painful reflections were roused by this sight, not unmingled however, with a feeling of thankfulness, when the thought arose how the bright light of Christianity has in the course of a veiy few years, dispelled the dark clouds of heat lenism under which such scenes were enacted ; and a proud feelin" it must be to every'right minded Englishman, that his countrymen have been tho principal instruments whom the Great Creator has thought fit to employ to work out this great end'. He it is who has impelled the missionaries of Great Britain to go forth and preach His wo'd of tiuth, and love, to the degraded sava"es among whom these ntro< ities were perpetrated. The disgust with which the intelligent New Zealnnders of the present day, speak of cannibalism is n pioof that this people had no peculiar predilection for such horrid customs. Jgnoiance and cruelly have gone hand in hand iu every age, and in every country. What a boast then is it for us, that we have rescued this rich and fe. tile land from such a curse. March 19th.—Our path to day led us over large plains of grass, bounded on either side by gloomy ranges of hills. After about eight hours' walking we arrived at Waiinuhaiin, a small village situated on the banks of the Waikato ; which deep and rapid stream we had in view for a considerable portion of the day. At. this point numerous warm springs bubble up in the river, where the natives commonly bathe. We had all caught cold from being exposed to the cold wind while dressing after our bath at Ohinimutu, which prevented us from trying the temperature of this water. We were out of provision!", hut fortunately one of our Maories shot three wild ducks on the river, of which we made a capital stew, and retiied to rest.

Alarcli 20th.—-Crossed the Wnikntu, here about sixty \un!s in breadth, in canoes, and (oiled up a sleep accent, over n rvcky mountain on the farther side. Surmounting which, we travelled along a good path across grassy flats to a village perched upon a small hill near a forest. Here we were much delayed in atlenipting to purchase a pig. We succeeded eventually in obtaining a very large one for eight shillings j which, for live sticks of tobacco, one of the villagers carried for us to Touropaki, where we cooked it whole in a nativeoven.nndiaredsumptuoiisly ou the beast's I'nt sides. While pushing on during this afteinoon we came upon a deserted pah of considerable extent. The untenanted duellings, overgrown with wild vines mid weeds, were fast falling into decay. No living thing met our view save one solitary ancient crone, who tottered mournfully about, seeming like the genius of old Time ruminating among these vestiges of former years. We made but a short march, darkness having set in before we could nuike further way. March 21st.—Pushed on across broken ground and grass flats to Tutakamoana, where we arrived early in the day. The weather was unpropitious, the rain soon begun to fall in torrents, and dense masses of heavy clouds completely obscured our view of the Taupo Lake. Tongariro, however, wua visible, although from the hazy state of the weather we could not obtain a good prospect of the great mountain. Unluckily our time is so short that we must be satisfied with this partial accomplishment of the principal object of our journey. Tatakamoana is a miserable, dirty little place, but the inhabitants were civil in their way, and gave us supplies of such provisions as they were possessed of. March 22iid.—The weather having cleared up, we proceeded early this morning over a good road across broken ground and plains covered with stunted grass and pumice stone, until we arrived at a small but rapid river, which rushes madly along over a bed of large stones, ils course lying below some overhanging clills, across the top of which a bridge of most primitive and apparently insecure construction has been thrown by the natives. We here rested for the night in some grass huts erected probably for the accommodation of wayfarer*. At this place we fell in with a party of natives who had left Auckland with us in charge of two mares to be taken to Taupo, and they had anived thus far in safety with their charge. The poor animals were in wretched condition, which however is not to be wondered ar, considering the route by which they had to travel. This party forded the river some dis-

tance higher up the enormous fissure iu Hie rocks, across (lie top of which the friiil bridge swayed ahout with every current of the wind. •March 23rd.—Crossed the ciazy convenience without accident, although iis rickctty state was anything but pleasant under lout, while the roar of the mad torrent, as it rushed over huge boulders of stone far below us, sounded but unpleasantly in our ears, giving warning- as it did, that a false step was not to be taken with impunity. After travelling across about 8 miles of grass flats, we c.ime upon rangea of fern covered mountains, the steep and long ascents and declivities of which were very fatiguing. I must own a mortal and rooted aversion to hill climbing, but the lover of such walking could here gratify his taste to his heart's content. Descending one steep mountain, we passed a native bridge of better construction than the last, thrown over the deepest part of u mountain stream, and walking over its shallows across a bed cf rock, we toiled our way up a tremendouß ascent, in many places nearly perpendicular. Walking onwards over more hills, and two or three patches of forest, through which the road was excessively bad, we arrived at night tired and hungry at Arowhena. The natives here are the most greedy and extortionate of any with whom we have fallen in, Instead of our ar-

lival being as usual heralded by acclamations of welcome, and the production of (bod, these people received us in silence, find one rascal produced from under his blanket, an unripe voter melon, for which he modestly asked two lien of lob.'CCO. A tame knka was also profl'i red to us —price three dollars, but five st cks of tobacco and a pipe being oIK-red, this payment was (iretdily snatched at by tho bird's knavish owner. Our Manrics are disgusted with these fellows, and say ihut they aie ashamed of them, which is no womler, considering our reception every vtheie else. We eventually succeeded in purchasing a small pig from the villagers, tVir about one quarter of the price demanded, which payment nevertheless, was double the value of thd animal, and turned into our blankets disgusted with the whole set, having first added to our stores of provisions at the price of a fig of tobacco, a baski t of punches, which, with tliP exception of a few at the top, turned out to be rotien mid gond for noihin^. Mareh'iUh.—UeingSunday.ucni-edetained in this unpleasant quarter, very much to our disgust. The natives really sicni to have no

reclemi ig good quality ; they are as filtliy as they are avaricious, and one old woman has employed herself opposite my tent for the greater pnrt of the morning, in fleaing a dog with great perseverance and success. The active '* small deer" which constituted the sport, seemed to have no chance against her nimble fingers, and n most disgusting sight it was to see licr cracking her captured prey between her ilirty nails. When bj way of a change, she began to scratch her own head, I was fairly driven out of my tent, to saunter about outside the pah. There I was joined by a cunning looking Maori, who commenced his conversation by enumerating the dilliculties and fatigiiss we should encounter in reaching Mangatutileri the next day, unless we availed ourselves of hia willingness to tiike us in canoes down the liver to a point which would very considerably lessen the distance which wo should luve to walk. On proposing to examine the Cannes in which he wished to carry us to the di sired spot, our disinterested friend demanded a shilling for shewing us the way to the river. Of courso we declined the honour of his guidance on the»o terms, hut our natives having corroborated the fact that our journey would he considerably curtuiled by going down tin! Wuikato, we succeeded after much trouble in milking a bargain with Sbylock to take U3 for a consideration of ten shillings Hiid ten sticks of tobacco. The bargain was finally do>ed after much trouble and haggling, and after this greedy impostor had more than once edged out of his own proposals, which being readily accepted, induced him to believe a little more could be got out of us. The evening closed in with heavy rain, and for a great part of the night, a terrific than, derstorm raged without I intermission. The bright glare of the lightning blazed through the Irail shelter of out thin tents, rendering visible the most minute objects with terrible distinctness, while the thunder rumbled and grumbled above in continuous peals. Altogether since leaving India, where the warring of the elements is on the grandest scale, " Such shceti of firr, aucb bursts of horrid thunder, Such groans of roaring wind ami rain, I never remember to have hciril. Khip Lear. We got thoroughly wet, as may bp imagined, and disgusted as we before wire with Arow. hena, this discomfort did not lend to lessen the feeling, fortunately the morning cleared up and we were enabled to proceed. On iinival ai the river we cnibarkod in two very small canoes, which in tluee qunrtcrs of an hour brought us to our destination. Hundreds of ducks covered the stream and flocks upon the banks Wept noisily quack ing, and pruning their feathers in the welcome sunshine. Having plenty of food we did not molest them, or we might have secured u heavy bag. Alter debarking we wnlkcd on for about ten miles to iMaugatauteri, along a good footpath inteiscctcd by occasional swamps, ono of which on account of the late rain was very deep. A native from Taupo, who had joined our party, and to whom I had promised a passage to Auckland in our canoe, offered to carry me over on his shoulders. The bottom was very slippery, and as he slowly went in until the water reached his chin, I never anticipated reaching the other side without a ducking, the more especially as H was laughing on the bank to see me clutching my steed's hair with convulsive energy, in trying to keep my seat ns he occasionally slipped or made a false step. To my gieat relief he earned me over in safety, and I now had the 1 laugh on my side to see H 's long legs dangling in the water as he was in his turn brought across in the same way. Being very wet we pushed on as fast as we : could,and arrived at Maugatauteri long before our natives. There we were welcomed with I great kindness, a kit of hot pork, koine- ; ras, and potatoes which had been prepared for ] thuiuhabitiint.s, being immediately set before us, I and not a portion ol it w>>uld they touch until i we h<id done. I