«Work in the Garden»

Lake County Mail, Issue 30, 17 December 1947, Page 6

«Work in the Garden»

By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H., N.Z., F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College

GOOSEBERRIES TO WALL FLOWERS The Chinese gooseberry is a worthy acquisition to any garden. First, it matures its fruit in winter-time, when fresh fruit is in short supply. Secondly, it is an excellent ornamental climber with bold, handsome foliage and large fragrant, creamy-coloured flowers. Native to China, this plant is comparatively hardy; in fact, a light frost greatly improves the flavour of the fruit. It has been grown extensively as an ornamental in the northern hemisphere, but little is known about crop production. It does well in the Auckland province, where it is a popular fruit, and appears to be quite happy in many parts of New Zealand, i am indebted to Mr K. C. Hockey, senior lecturer in horticulture at Massey College, for data relative to commercial cropping in New Zealand. The ideal soil is a deep rich loam which, though well drained, is retentive of moisture. They key factors are a reasonably good drainage and an ample supply of moisture when the plant is making its growth and developing fruit. The plant is usually dioecious; that is, the male and female plants are borne on separate plants. For this reason it is essential to obtain “ a pair ” of grafted plants to ensure the setting of a crop of fruit. One male plant will pollinate from five to ten females. Grafted plants will also ensure that the female plant will produce fruit of a good type. As with other plants, there are good and poor strains. to obtain those producing large oval, fleshy fruits without any fibre in the flesh. It is likely that one excellent form will soon appear on the market under the name of “ Wright’s Special.” Support for Climbing Actinidia chinensis, to use its botanical name, is strong, vigorous and longlived. There are various methods of training them. They will twine round and attach themselves securely to poles and may be used to cover a pergola or summer house. There is one disadvantage with this method, in that the plants are less accessible for pruning and harvesting. A five tjp six-foot fence is much handier. A paling fence would give shelter in colder districts or a strong post and wire fence running approximately north and south would ensure maximum sunlight. The posts should be spaced eight to ten feet apart, and the wires, which should be No. 8 gauge or heavier, may be Spaced 18 inches apart, the lowest one a similar distance from the ground. The lower parts of the vines will give considerable support themselves if they are planted in between the posts, thus saving the posts to support the weight of fruit as the vines develop. Space the plants from 12 to 18 inches apart, tying first two leaders along the fence from the bottom upwards. There will be a tendency for the sideshoots to grow upwards, and these should be shortened back at 12 inches to ensure full development of the main leaders. A little extra attention at this stage, when the young plant is extremely vigorous, will ensure a good framework which will be easy to manage later on. Mature female plants expend the greatest amount of energy in the production of fruit and are comparatively easy to manage. The male plant, however, continues to produce strong growth and requires to be cut back fairly hard. Pruning and Manuring Both summer and winter pruning is advisable. In the spring new growths develop from dormant buds, as with the grape vine. These produce flowers during November and December, and where vigorous they should be “-stopped ” several leaves beyond the last fruit. All vigorous non-fruiting growth which is not required for new leaders or laterals should be removed. This will prevent undue shading of the lower branches. During winter-time fruiting growth should be thinned out to ensure their full development during the following season. They are not cut back, as are grapes. This thinning and pruning programme is essential to the production of large fruits of good quality. Good

fruit may range in weight from seven to ten per lb. Winter pruning must be carried out early in July as soon as the fruit is harvested, otherwise, if left later, “ bleeding ” may occur and dieback will result. When the plants are young and vigorous, little nitrogenous fertiliser will be required. A dressing of superphospate (lib) and potash (4oz) should be applied at flowering time. This should be distributed well around the plant, as it has a wide root run. Half .this amount would be sufficient for young plants, and for older and less vigorous plants 31b of blood and bone may be substituted for superphosphate and applied when growth commences in the spring. As the male plant does not produce crops it seldom requires manuring. The leayes fall and the fruits mature in May and, though still firm, may be used for preserves. The fruits do not ripen fully until June, but should be picked before they become soft in order to forestall the birds. They may be stored in a cool place for several months and may be used for jams, jellies, pies, fruit salads and dessert. Biennials and Perennials from Seed Many of these subjects may be raised from seed sown now. They will not flower this season, but should be set in their permanent positions in the autumn to flower next summer. Many readers desire to grow their own wallflowers, Sweet William and Canterbury bells for next spring and early summer display. The seed should be sown now or early in January. The latter date is leaving it rather late, as the young plants may be faced with a hot, dry period. Wallflowers, owing to their less fibrous root system are the more difficult. The seed is sown in boxes of seed soil comprising two parts of loam, one part of leaf mould and one of sand. Add Hoz of superphosphate and foz of lime to each bushel of seed soil. A bushel is a measure equivalent to a rectangular box 22 inches by 10 inches by 10 inches. Place some rough fibrous material in the bottom of the box and fill with about tow inches of compost. Firm the soil evenly throughout the box, particularly in corners and near the sides. Surface the box with some finely-sieved soil, water, and leave to drain. Sow the seed evenly and cover with a light dressing of finely-sifted soil. The deptli of the covering should equal about twice the diameter of the seed, Avhich with fine seeds is very light indeed. Cover the boxes with a pane of glass to prevent evaporation of surface moisture and shade with a piece of newspaper. Wallflowers may germinate in three or four days, depending on conditions, and all covers should be removed immediately. Once two leaves have developed they should be removed to a cool frame to prevent their becoming drawn. It may be necessary to shade them during the hottest part of the day to prevent sun-scorching, .until they have hardened off. There are two methods of growing on—either prick them out into boxes as the second pair of leaves develop and line them out in the open ground later on, or sow the seed thinly, and when they have made sturdy little plants, about the first Aveek in January, line them out in a bed in the back garden. This bed should be Avell prepared and in good tilth. A dressing of lime should be applied before Christmas. Make the roAvs 12 inches apart and set the plants nine inches apart in the toavs. Art of Wrenching They should be Avatered in and carefully tended until they become established. It Avill be necessary to spray Avith arsenate of lead or dust Avith derris dust to control Avhite butterfly and diamond-back moth caterpillars. By March the plants Avill be nice and bushy and the first Avrenching should take place after rain. For this, make a cut Avith the spade abou,t four inches out from the- plant and unddr at an anlgle of 45 degrees. Cut only one side at first and firm the soil alongside the plant. A second cut on the opposite side may be made a fortnight later and similarly firmed in. The final Avrenching is made in April

and the plant lifted gently with the spade to ensure that all roots are severed. 1 Firm them in again, and a fortnight later planting out into the beds may commence. The plants should lift with a good ball of roots, and surface soil may be rubbed off, leaving a nice rounded ball of soil and fine roots. This may seem a long programme, but the wallflower is a perennial plant and takes a long time to develop into the showy plants seen in parks and reserves. Sweet William may be treated in a similar manner but, if required to flower at Christmas time, seed should not be sown till early in January. These plants make a better root system than wallflowers and require only the first cut and final wrenching. Foxgloves and Canterbury bells are usually pricked out in boxes and planted out in the autumn as ground becomes vacant.