THE WONDERLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

King Country Chronicle, Volume VIII, Issue 626, 10 December 1913, Page 6

THE WONDERLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

(By Rev. S. Griffiths.). '

Some enthusiasts may be inclined to substitute the words "Southern Hemisphere," for New Zealand; and a few "the world." But let New Zealand suffice. I had frequently been within four score, miles of this marvellous district but until very recently J had never visited it. Branching off from the Main Trunk line at Frank ton Junction- the railway passes through a cultivated country for some miles; then we get into a district where ismcovered hillocks ar« much in evidence. After a time, instead of hillocks, hills. with patches of bush, and now and again, a well wooded gorge. For a considerable part of the journey we are on the "up-grade," attaining our greatest elevation in the neighbourhood of Mamaku, where we are nearly two thousand feet above sea level. Then, with an excellent 'view of the far-famed lake with its conspicuous Mokoia Island before us, we have an easy descent to the headquarters of this wonderful thermal district—Rotorua. I had heard so much about the odour of sulphur that abounded here, that I was pleasingly surprised to find an entire absence of it. Indeed, the air appeared io be remarkably pure and bracing; but I afterwards discovered that much depends upon the direction of the wind, the state of the atmosphere, and the activity of the numerous geysers and vent-holes with which the place abounds. Wbakarewarewa—commonly called "Whaka"—lies about two miles from Rotorua; and as I had been told that one could see there, on a small scale, sampleß of the whole thermal district, 1 lost no time before I visited it; and I certainly was not disappointed. The part where the thermal activity is greatest, is fenced in but there is no charge for admission. Inside the fence there are numerous printed warnings not to leave the path; and the warning-* are needed, because of the numerous places in which an unwary step would mean a scalded foot. Here are innocent' looking bubbles which are quietly exploding as gently as boiling porridge; but upon being examined, they are found to be too hot to be touched with impunity. A few feet farther away there is an active geyser which spouts up boiling water to height of from twelve to 20 feet—not cuntinually, but in an unequal and fitful manner. Seeing, hard by. a hill with a trig station on the top of it, I made for that, and was pleased to find that a considerate Government had made an excellent winding path to the very summit. From this exalted position we get a splendid view of our weird surroundings. Facing the north we find that the bulk of the activity is before us, the sevsral vents being indicated by the ascending steam. The principal geysers here are Pohutu, the splasher; Te Horo, the cauldron; Wairoa, high column of water; Wai-Korohihi, hissing water; Kereru, the pigeon; the torpedo; and the Prince of Wales Feathers. Curiously enough, the Wajkite geyser stopped playing more than a dozen years ago—on the very day that the railway was opened into Rotorua—and as it has never played since, the Maoris say that it was stopped by the Premier. Near this now inactive —geyser, there is a cave in which an old chieftain Te Tukutuku—managed to hide from his enemies for two years. But he was afterwards discovered, arrested, and beheaded; and then his brain were cooked in the boiling water known as Te Komutumutu (the brain pot), and being cooked, they were duly eaten This, of course was a long time ago. The Maoris are now more civilised: some of them indeed prove competent guides, and many of the children are ready to dive or dance for a few coppers.

About a dozen miles to the east of Whaka—as the crow flies —we come to Lake Tarawera with its buried village, and beyond that, Lake Rotomahana on whkh the visitor my ail over boiling water! But instead of visiting these deservedly famous places, let us take a trip across Lake Rotorua fco see_ the celebrated Hamurana Spring. Here pure water is abundant. The depth of the spring is 80 feet, ar.fi the water conies up with so much force that a penny thrown in cannot sink until it turns edge downwards. Quite a river flow 3 from thin spring-, the water being, we were told, enough to supply four cities as large as London! Returning to our launch we passed through a narrow channel out of Lake Rotorua into Lake Rotoitl; and in a short time we were able to visit the Okere Fall's and Rapids, End the Hinemoa Steps and Gave. We now change cur method of locomotion, and drive back by the '.ortuous channel which unites lbs i'./C lakes until wa get to a substantial bridge, which we cross, and thus find our way to Tikitere. We have here to pay 2i each for the privilege of being conducted to "The Gates of Heii," "Hades/' etc., etc. These places are rightly named; for the pitch-iike water which spring- up in such mighty volume here, is decidedly uninviting. It has been suggested'hat if the Hebrew prophets had visited this district, instead of Topnnt and Gehenna we might have had some of these Maori names immortalised. But "The Entrance to Paradise" is an absurd misnomer; for the little hole that 13 thus named, is neither inviting nor promising. I could not spare the tinia for the "Round Trip"; but during the fewdays that I was in Rotorua I had very comfortable quarters and pleasant companions in Brent's Hotel; and now, amongst the treasured memories of my visit, are the edifying- chats which I was privileged to have with the venerable proprietor of that establishment.