THE TRIMMINGS AND MATERIALS OF THE SEASON.

Globe, Volume XXII, Issue 2006, 29 July 1880, Page 3

THE TRIMMINGS AND MATERIALS OF THE SEASON.

, ["Queen."] • Simplicity is out of fashion. Present modes ' are observable for glitter, glare, varied and f intricate patterns, and Oriental amalgamation ' of colour. Gold lace in millinery, cashmerian 1 mixtures in woollen and silk stuffs, applied to ' coats and drapery, and old-gold coloured ; damask ; velvet, silk, and satin—these strike 1 the eye of the oasual observer, go where he ' may, in fashionable London. Very rich and • very handsome are the new silks of the season. 1 Black, white, heliotrope, and other delicate • shades of silk display brocades of single large flowers, suoh as tulipß or roses, often outlined with cold or Bilver thread, and sometimes with satin beads. A very lovely heliotrope satin preparing for Ascot, has a front breadth of velvet brocade on a satin ground, the pattern outlined with two shades of satin beads matching the silk. Many of the old brocades of Louis XIV. and XV, George 11. and 111. reigns, have been copied, not only in design, but in the artistic colourings which characterised them. The smaller patterned brocades, interwoven with gold, are the aome of f'shion for coats, and Messrs Redfern, of Conduit street, are preparing many such ; and Oriental brocadeß in silk, as well as cashmerionne in wool, are used for the same purpose, for it is a sine qua non that the coat should differ entirely from the skirt. For the skirt a variety of inexpensive materials are often used, poisessing the merit of draping well. Under this head come the foulard class, and foulard is especially fashionable—plain foulard, printed satin foulards, and spotted foulards, satin foulard broche, whioh has the appearance of a rich satin, and is made up with plain satin foulard. . ■_ Poult de soie gives place to satin de .Lyon, and is more durable and oi better appearance. It has a satin face on ono side and silk on the other. Messrs Rcdmayne have brought out spun satin, rich and very soft ; and plain, mingled with spots, in such mixtures as two shades of heliotrope, old gold and cardinal, grenat and light blue. Twilled satin is another artistic novelty, and surah merveilleuse. Sultane is used principally for mantles, and is an improved kind of silk serge. Sicilienne d'Albion has all the appearance of the richest satin at half the price; and Satinette des Italiens, which Eedermachor makes a specialite in light colouring, is admirably suited for evening dresses. We are deluged with Oriental materials and Oriental names. Benares silk has a white ground with hair stripes. Ningpo silt is sold in all shades, and Hoo Chin Pongee is cora silk, dressed and rendered a pure white. It being made up for the races and for dinner, trimmed with a profusion of lace. Bedfern, for the races, is making light colored soft silk, with coats of the richest Oriental brocade, the groundwork gold. Besides the cashmerienne woollen brocades, the market is inundated with chalis mousseline de laine, under the name of Barege do Virginia and Ronbaix crape in plain colors, and the newest chalis, printed with Japanese designs all over them, made up with stock - ingnette bodices, for the stockingnette or elastio cloth in all colors is another featuro of the season. The handkerchief dresses are made both in wool and cotton, generally sold in pieces of seven squares with borders. The newest are the Madras patterned cottonß, for brilliant yellow and black cotton, and Indian red are fashionable. Spots are the prevailing style of cambrics for morning wear, the old bird's eye vogel revived, white on navy blue, china blue, cardinal, heliotrope, and peaoock. Newer is the lunar spot, much larger and shaded ; brown on red and blue, yellow on brown,' and so on. Many of the new cottons have printed borders used for trimmings, both spotted cottons Bnd the Oriental cretonnes, with pine and cashmerienne designs. Another new and most oharming print displays a wellcovered floral design in subdued colorings, with borders which would seem to have been copied from some Sevres or Dresden shepherdess. Very perfect is the printing of all these new class of goods, especially the lightgrounded satines, with bold single sprays of Sowers, which appear to be painted, and others on the crepe grounds. Quite new and of most decided oriental character are the Crepes de Lahore, printed not on material woven in a crepe-like pattern, but on a muslin crinkled after weaving. White muslin embroidery laid on and bordered with gold tambour, thiok muslin embroidery, and a profusion of lace, are used alike «n cottons and muslins, for thin printed muslins are coming in made up over a color. Indienne embroidery has been improved upon, and galons of dark oriental cotton, outlined with gold tambour work, are also much used._ A coarse make of thread lace, the Medici, is employed with imitation Mechlin, Languedoc, point Newport, and dentelle Victoria on washing dresses, with some galons, interwoven floral designs, and St. Etienne fringes made of cotton instead of thread.

Seaweed made up into bands, with headings and pendants, the colouring heightened and positively dyed, is new for evening dresses, and most light and pretty. Beads are the one great feature in all other trimmings, and such an impetus has been given to the bead trade that the new Coussu trimmings, whioh are, in fact, an applique of beads, with no ground work visible except sometimes a line of gold tambour between —can be had in every conceivable shade and mixture _of shade—cashmerienne, heliotrope, ecru shading to brown, and sevoral others. The improvement of the year in beading is that most of the new trimmings are so made that they can be cut without any fear of the beads coming off. A new material, utilisod as long Dolman sleeves on mantellettes, is a sort of richly woven grenadine with the beads introduced in the weaving, and forming a brocade of beads. The newest jetted lace has the design laid on plain net, not on a patterned lace. Much unpolished jet is used, and is extremely costly ; shaded jot is a novelty ; the polished and unpolished, cut and uncut, being so planned that they appear to shade off to steol. The newest jet gimpß are made up with cord only, and much jet trellis work is used both for fringes and for round capes and cuirass bodices; they adapt themselves to every figure. Chenille and pearls are favorite trimmings for evening dresses, ana Parisian toilettes have beaded paßeementeries and fringe made to follow the color of several oriental brocades. A new fringe, brought out by Hill, of Oxford street, is a network of beads threaded through satin-covered drops, ■with curled untwisted chenille falling over. Saint Etienne or tape fringo is aleo blended with pear-shaped drops and ohenille. The new chenille ribbon has a fringe of loops of untwisted chenille at either side. Gold lace (viz, lace made of gold thread, white lace interwoven with gold, steel, or silver), small bead gimps and gold gimps, with muoh French, English, and Oriental embroidery are used on millinery. Spanish lace can nowbe had in old gold as well as black and white, and is used thus for trimmings; and, in place of lace balayeußes, red or yellow satin plaitings are sold to border the edges of dresses.