A TRIP TO LONDON.

Gisborne Times, Volume VIII, Issue 499, 12 August 1902, Page 3

A TRIP TO LONDON.

(By A.D.C.)

No. V.

Towards tho afternoon on the first day of tho journey through the Red Sea, but away in tho distance, tho town of Mocha on the coast of Arabia was just discernible. On the following day the Brothers Light bouso was passed. Tho Brothors are two small whitish rocky islands in tho centre of the Red Sea, situated a very short distance from each other. The lighthouse is built on tho larger of the two rocks. With tho exception of the lighthouse and a small shed or two, both of tho rocks aro as bare as tho palm of one’s hand. The smallor rock is quite levoi, whilst its sides

ire precipitous. Suez wan reached at about eleven o’clock on tbo 3rd Juno, and the steamer anchored about half a mile from the entranco to the canal for about two hours. The run up the Gulf of Suez, with the land to bo seen on both aides, was most pleasant. Tbo water waa smooth and a cool LfeGkG WHS blowing, but the sun abining on the white sands caused such a glare that it was very difficult to look on some parts of the shore with the naked eye. It waa wbilo lying at anchor here that the news that peace had been declared with the Boers was received. It of course caused a good deal of oxcitomont on board, and the passengers cheorcd three times three. In view of tho stoppage at Port Said, the health officers eamo off and inspected the passengers. One of these was a lady doctor. During the time the steamer was anchored, no less than five largo ocean going steamers belonging to all nations came out of tho canal, whilst two or three others, including tho Borne, were waiting to enter. This will give my roadors some idea of tho tremendous traffic through tho canal. One of the boats waiting to enter wa3 a German liner. It came up to an anchorage with its band playing sweot music, and continued playing for some time. What with the very numorous Arabs sailing about in boats, with a steam launch or two plying I up and down, tho soveral largo steamers starting on their way, and the Australian passengers on the boats coooo-ing to each other, the scene was a very lively one for a time. Tho canal enters tho Gulf of Suez

1| miles south-oast of the town, passing Port Tewfik to tho northwurd. I have ofton heard travellers who have passed through the canal remark that the trip is very uninteresting. I cannot agreo with them, In tho first place the work is such a marvel of engineering skill that oven without seeing anything in the way of Bcenery en route, there is something to interest ono in viewing the great work as the steamer glides through at tho regulation rate of 5 miles an hour. The canal

varies in width from 150 to 800 foot, has an average depth of 28ft, and is 87 miles long. It cost twenty millions to build, I and has a revonue of three millions per annum. Of this rovonue tho P. and 0. Company alone in one year contributed over a quarter of a million. On each side of the canal there is little elso but desert to be seon, but now and again this is varied by a stretch of trees or vegotation of somo deseription to be seon on one side of the canal only. Hero and there groups of Arabs were to be seen at work with their mules and camels carting oarth and making repairs to the embankments. Sometimes one of those Arabs would stop working and would keep up with the boat for some distance calling out tho word baksheesh, which means “ charity,” and of course wanting some kind friend to throw him a ccin. Now and again also a tremendous bucket dredge and hopper (there are sovoral on the canal) and a canal station are passed. It is from tho station that the canal traffic is controlled. Here is a telephonic system in use throughout the length of the canal so that each stationmaster knows when a vessel is on its way up or down. The sides are built up almost the whole way with very frail looking stone walls—not nearly as strong as I had expected to see. In somo places there is no wall at all. Those walls of course arc continually breaking away and being repaired by the largo staff of men who are permanently employed. Steamers travelling through at night time are compelled to use a powerful flash-light at tho bow in connection with their navigation. When evening came the view was most effective. Both behind and in front of tho Borne were two large steamers,

each with its light of about 4.000 candlepower. It seemed as though you were witnessing a magic lantern the long night through. There are sevoral lakes that are passed through, the principal ones being called “Tho Bitter Lakes,” and Lake Timsah. On the latter is situated the town of Ismalia. At 3.30 a.m. excitement was

caused amongst passengers on it becoming known that the steamer had stuck hard

and fast. After great exortions on the part of the officers they were at last successful in regaining the channel at 8.30 a.m., but not before several strong hawsers had snapped, and a post or two had boen pulled into tho canal. I was told that when tho steamer grounded the French pilot on board used exceedingly bad Frenoh to all around him, not even ex-

cepting our genial Commander. The cause of the mishap was a bank of fog suddenly orossing the bow and obscuring the flashlight. As we were within 21 miles of Port Said at this time the steamer very shortly

afterwards arrived at tho latter place, where passengers were enabled to have a run ashore for a couple of hours while the steamer coaled/ Port Said, whioh is situated at the northern entrance to the canal, is a very cosmopolitan place. Some parts of tho town wore rather dirty, and yet, as soon from the deck of the steamer when getting into the basin at the northern entrance, the town had a good and substantial aspect, one or two large handsome buiidings showing up to advantage. The inhabitants depend entirely upon the largo passenger traffic for their livelihood, Tourists visiting Egypt call there. Tho town in fact owes its existonoo to the

canal. Perhaps tho most interesting sight witnessed at this place was watching tho Arabs coaling the steamer. The coal is carried to tho bunkers from the barges in kits, resembling a enrponter’s kit, up narrow planks by an incessant stream of Arabs. If ono of them gets lazy he very

soon knows the reason why. I saw the master of one of the barges—himself an Arab—belabor one of tho mon unmercifully

aoross tho head and shoulders with a stout

cane, causing the man to simply shriek. The other Arabs seemed quito indifferent to what was happening and went on with their work. I understand that the work of

coaling is carried on quicker at this port than any other in tho world, A strange characteristic of tho Arab women to be seen here, as in tho case with all Arab women, is that they hide their faces by wearing a long thick voll, which only allows tho eyes to bo seen. This veil is connected with wliat appears to be a piece of brass tube or bone extending the wholo length of tho nose and right up between the oyos. That portion of the veil

which covers the forehead is also connected with the brass tube or bone. The wholo paraphernalia is called a Yashmak. As a rosult of wearing the thing on the nose most of the women get cross-eyed. At this place also exceedingly clever jugglers wore to be seen performing marvellous tricks, which thoroughly delighted the crowds of passengers who witnessed them. On arriving at Port Said the mails wero at once transhipped and despatched by an express steamer called the Isis to Brindisi. This boat [travels at tho rate of 21 knots per hour. Sir Edmund Barton and Sir John Forrest also left for Brindisi, afterwards taking tram to Ijoudop. After leaving Port Said the beautiful blue Mediterranean was at onoo entered, and the weather immediately became very cool. Passengors felt tho sudden change of climate very keenly, and thick clothing once more had to be worn. The trip through tho Mediterranean was unevent-

ful until tho Straits of Messina, between Sicily and Italy, wero entered, when all passengers wore on deck intently gazing at and discussing tho beautiful scenery to ba seen on both sides of the straits. Tho

day was fairly dear, and it was a pleasure to once moro gazo upon something in the nature of roal vegetation after the desert country just passed through. Tho grass on the hills had rather a parched-up appoarance, but vineyards and olive trees could be seen right along tho coast at tho numerous settlements that were passed. Numbers of largo driod-up watercourses could also bo plainly seen. Perhaps tho most interesting sight in the Straits was

the beautiful panoramic view obtained of tne city of Messina in Sicily. The city is situated right on the coast, and it seemed to shew up to better advantage on acconnt of having a dark background of very high hills. Mount Etna could not be seen to advantage in consequence of being obscured by clouds, but streaks of snow on its sides could be seen at times. The vo'canic mountain Stromboli was seen very shortly after getting through the straits, but a 3 a cloud hung over its apex a good view was not obtainable. Along its sides could be seen deep gutters which made it appear as though burning lava had poured down some time or other, or else they were the result of heavy rains. Judging from appearances, however, I am inclined to

think that the former was the case. The Straits of Bonifacia between Corsica and Sardinia was the next point of interest. On the one side was seen the coast of Corsica with its several small inlets. The island, as-is well known, was the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. One or two settlements were to be seen, but beyond that there was nothing to attract the eye. As the steamer neared Marseilles a notice was posted up requesting passengers to hand over all tobacco,cigars and cigarettes to their bedroom stewards, in order that they might be placed under seal by the French Customs authorities on arrival. This precaution is taken to prevent these dutiable articles being surreptitiously landed.

Marseilles was reached early in the morning of the 9th June. The steamer auchored some distance off the City, and after a delay of some hours, for a reason no one could explain, it was berthed at the P. and 0. wharf. I had always heard of tho excitability of the French, and must say that this characteristic manifested itself to a great extent while the boat was Being berthed. What with rushing about receiving the ropes on the wharf, and the calling out to each other in a most excited manner, it seomed as though pandemonium had been let loose. On the wharf there were two stringed bands of itinerant musicians, tumblers, and men and women of all descriptions, wait-

ing to vend their goods. Several passengers left the steamer here for the purpose of travelling through France to London. This journey is accomplished in about 30 hours. All the passengers of course “ did ” the City, and I think they all had a jolly time. Those who have no knowledge of the French language very often havo a difficulty in making themselves understood, and it was very amusing afterwards listening to the various experiences. Marseilles is a very extensive and busy City. Owing to some of tho streets being narrow and having a double tram line, the traffic at times appeared to bo very congested. The principal thoroughfare is a fairly good width, and contains some very fine buildings. The place is very bright and gay, and there is plenty of bustle. Amongst tho principal places I visited were the markets, art gallery, and tho famous church, Notre Dame. The church is situated on an altitude which commands a splendid view of tho whole City. A cable tram travels up to it at an angle of about 60 degrees. The edifice is beautiful inside. On its highest point there is a tremendous statue of tho Virgin Mary. When the steamer arrived at tho wharf I was informed that tho English Consul came on board with a message from Mr Chamberlain advising tho officer in charge of tho Commonwealth Contingent not to allow any of tho men on shore in uniform, as it might rouse tho iro of tho French people. In consequence of this message the troopers were considerably perplexed at first, as they all intended to have a good time on shore. Very few of them had civilian clothes. Not to be outdone, however, they started borrowing clothes from the passengers and officers and crew of the steamer. As a result of their efforts suits of all descriptions were readily forthcoming, and as each trooper dressed in his newly-acquired clothes he would parade to bo inspected by the others. There wore some truly comical figures amongst them. One would be wearing a coat much too short, another with trousers too short, another with top hat and short coat, and so on until seen together thoy were a peculiar looking lot. Just before the steamer left one of those incidents occurred which usually causes no end of trouble. A member of tho contingent threw some orango peel at a French policeman who was doing his beat up and down the wharf. Immediately tho policeman rushed on board in a most excited state and wanted to fight tho man who had thrown tho peel. He said ho had a revolver and a knife about him, but he would not use either. The incident was smoothed over through the intervention of a French interpreter. I was informed that the reason why the peel was thrown was on account of the policeman preventing a French boy violinist from playing “ God Save tho King.” The harbor at Marseilles is a beautiful one. It is an artificial work. The breakwater is built very strongly, whilst the wharves, or moles as they are called, are also very substantial works. The latter are built on the reclamation system. First of all the outline of tho proposed mole is laid down in largo concrete blocks, and then earth is used to fill in the spaeo enclosed. The surface is then paved with stones. The port is a largo and busy one. After leaving tho French city tho Balearic Islands, tho principal of tho group being Minorca and Majorca, very soon came into sight, as also did tho coast of Spain. Away in the distanco could bo seen tho Sierra Nevada Mountains, tho highost peak of which glittered with snow in the bright sunshine, and was a most imposing spectacle. Gibraltar was unfortunately reached at a very late hour in the ovoning, and none of the passengers ventured off the steamer. All wero, of course, greatly disappointed, as everyone had been expecting to reach the historical rock at 8 p.m. The olemonts, however, wore against our arriving earlier. The steamer dropped anchor in Gibraltar Bay, inside a new mole which is being built, and within a very short distance of tho shore. I was informed that this anchorage is not good, being much exposed to the south-west winds, whilo the eas t winds blow in terrible gusts across the bay. Tho north, south, and east sides appeared to bo very steep and precipitous, but on the western side where tho town is built it slopes down towards the bay. Looking towards the numerous lights of the town gave the stranger an impression that he was gazing into a very large city. Here, as at the other places called at, numbers of the residents of the place came off to the steamer to sell their goods. In this instance they were Spanish, but British-Spanish, if I may use the term, as I understand that all Spaniards born on

British territory at Gibraltar are looked

upon as British subjects. Such Spaniards are commonly known as 11 Rock Scorpions.” The goods sold consisted chiefly of tobacco, cigars, cigarettes, scents, and fruit. Passengers bought a considerable quantity of these articles, and the vendors returned to shore with very much lighter kits than what they came on board with. Gibraltar was left behind, after a stay of a couple of hours. Capo St. Vincent, tho southernmost point of Portugal, and Cape Fiunesterre, the north-west of Spain, were subsequently passed, as also was the lighthouse at Cape Villano, the light of which flashes with great brilliancy. The coasts of Spain and Portugal were then left behind, and the dreaded Bay of Biscay was entered, when the wind became piercingly cold, but contrary to all expectations, the sea was moderately calm, and, as a result, the passengers were in high spirits in anticipation of arriving at Plymouth within 48 hours. Eddystone Lighthouse was passed at 9 o’clock in the morning on the 16th June, and within about twenty minutes afterwards the Rome was riding safely at anchor in Plymouth Sound. After leaving Plymouth the scenery on the South Coast of England was much admired. The whole country side seemed to be under cultivation, and everything had a beautifully green and fresh appearance. The run up the Channel was very smooth and pleasant. Early in the morning on the 17th June the River Thames was entered. What an interesting sight the trip up the river is. Only those who have travelled up it can realize the tremendous traffic. Steamer after steamer, ship after ship, of all descriptions, and belonging to all countries of the world were to be seen going up and down. It was a sight to be remembered. The remaining passengers disembarked at the Royal Albert Docks, where terminated one of the most onjoyable passages it could ever be the lot of anyone to experience,