THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 23692, 27 September 1940, Page 2

THE GARDEN

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS “ Pot Plants.”—Mix with the soil you mentioned a good dressing of oyster grit oi' sharp, clean sand. The pots should bo cleaned. When potting place a few crocks in the bottom of cadi pot, covering them with moss. When potting the plants the soil should be made firm by using a wooden rammer. After potting give tho plants a watering. Refrain from watering again for at least 14 days or more, until the roots are taking up the moisture. Then commence to water in the ordinary way. I would advise you to clean the leaves of your palms with pinepestol liquid, using one teaspoonful to one quart of water. This can be applied with a sponge. “ Carnation.”—l am afraid your method of treating carnation cuttings has been somewhat crude, and that is the reason for them not rooting. The rooting of carnations is very simple if carried out in the following manner: — Tho wood selected should bo young growth, and tho cuttings should be cut below a joint, leaving about 4in in length only. They should then be inserted into good, open soil containing plenty, of sand or oyster grit. No manure of any kind should be used. Make sure that the soil is made firm around the cuttings. “ M.S.-”—I am afraid that your cyclamen corms are affected with eel worm. I would advise that you shake off the soil and then dress the heel of the bulbs with pinepesto powder. Mix some good half-rotted turf and apply a dressing of leaf mould and oyster gnt to it. Pot firmly, and place plants into a cold glasshouse, where they start away in growth. cold glasshouse is ideal for the cultivation of cyclamen. “ R.R.”—The most efficient insecticides for destroying aphis—commonly known as green fly—are Nick-tina 40— loz to six gallons of water—and pine--pestol liquid—two tablespoons to one gallon of water or dust with Derrisdust when the foliage is moist. SPRING WORK PUNTING AND SOWING The wise gardener should lose no time in carrying out various operations, as the climatic and soil conditions are excellent just now. In the flower garden tho surface between all spring bulbs and flowering plants should be kept open, and a dressing of a good artificial manure should be worked in. It is essential that bulbs, such as hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, etc., should bo helped to throw good strong growth after flowering, as this moans larger spikes of flower in the next season. A mistake is often made, not only by amateurs but also by professional gardeners, in the cultivation of bulbs. Instead of allowing the foliage on tho bulbs to mature after flowering they are lifted and thrown back in some odd corner to dry off. In this way the bulbs are robbed of the food necessary to build up their blooms for tho next season. If the position in which the bulbs have been flowering is required for other plants for the summer, then carq should be exercised in lifting them. Ir a certain amount of soil is allowed to remain on the roots and they are placed away into a half-sunny position and covered with a little soil the bulbs will be able to mature their foliage and ripen off gradually. If carried out in this manner very little damage is done. The sowing of all hardy annuals may now be made in prepared beds. In the case of such varieties as Virginian stock, linaria, and linum, etc., which are required for edging purposes, the seeds may be sown in their flowering positions. When taking out the drills, which should bo shallow, a dressing of oyster grit will greatly assist germination.

All hardy annuals which have been raised in boxes and thoroughly hardened off should be planted out into their flowering quarters as soon as possible. A few suggestions may be helpful as to combinations at this stage. French marigolds (dwarf Monmouth strain) edged with Tn'getis signata pumila make a delightful bed, or Tagotia edged with alyssum (Snow Carpet). Another which is well worth a trial is a bed of ageratum (Blue Cap) edged with alyssum (Snow Carpet). This combination would be greatly admired and also flower for a considerable period. Aster (Heart of France, ruby red) edged with dwarf French marigolds or Tagetcs is another combination which will give great pleasure. For large beds or borders the new Sunset Giant marigolds give a great display. The colours are remarkable, and the habit of the plants is very compact. An edging of Rosv Morn petunias will set the bed off in a delightful manner. Salpiglossis is one of the most beautiful of all annuals when massed and edged with Primula Malacoides (rose pink). The plants will flower right into the autumn months.

Another variety of flowering plant which cannot be surpassed when massed is the fibrous-rooted begonia. When the right varieties are grown very few plants will continue to flower as these begonias do, but some of the varieties are poor in colour. If the bods are planted with such varieties as Umbell (deep cerise pink), the colour of Gloire de Lorraine, and edged with begonia Zulu King (crimson flower with dark crimson foliage), one will have a wonderful display with a colouring which will draw the attention of every lover of Nature Stocks are favourites with everyone, and a bed or border of Giant Perfection stocks massed is not very easily forgotten. This stock is of a compact habit, with a large range of colours, and is an ideal bedding plant. Edged with viscaria it is a thing of beauty. Zinnias, when the right position is selected for them (that is, a warm and sheltered one), cannot be beaten for freedom of flowering, and, above all, for the wonderful colourings. Giant Dahlia flowering edged with dwarf doublehoddor, will provide a fine show all the summer months and give great satisfaction. Before planting out any of the above plants a good dressing of a concentrated manure should be worked into the surface. Seedsmen will be able to advise on what manures are the most beneficial for this work. I have been asked on several occasions the reason for seedlings damping off in boxes, etc. This is caused by a microscopic fungus, known as pythium debaryanum, which can only exist when damp conditions prevail. Thin sowing and a good circulation of air when the seeds are germinating are recommended. The plants should he watered with Ohcshunt compound, or the soil when being mixed may have a dressing of pinepesto powder applied. This will destroy any damping-oil! that arc in the soil. F.S.P.

Work for the Week

SOWING GRASS UNDER TREES The difficulty of growing grass under trees does not lie, as so many amateurs suppose, in tbo shade cast by the branches. Tho myriads of tiny feeding roots of tbo trees situated in the top spit of ground impoverish the soil to such an extent that grass cannot grow. The first step in planning for a thick, even sward under trees, therefore, is to enrich the soil. Loosen the ground over the whole area with a garden fork. Do not use a spade, as this will damage the tree roots. Tho soil should be loosened to a depth of 2in or 3in and enriched with humus in the form of rotten manure, peat moss, or hop manure. Soak the ground with water, allow to dry, and fork it over again to mix the humus material with it.

It is advantageous, at this stage, to apply 2oz of fine bonemcal and loz of powdered charcoal to the square yard. The bonemeal provides slowly-available plant food and the charcoal keeps the soil sweet. Next roll the surface and rake it lightly to form a seed bed. Sow down a lawn grass mixture especially blended for shady positions, at the rate of 2oz per square yard. Cover with a light top-dressing of loamy soil. SWEET PEAS MULCH PROVES BENEFICIAL There are two opinions as to the advisability or otherwise of mulching sweet pea seedlings. Some growers believe it is- better not to coddle, but allow the plants to fight their own battle. Other growers favour mulching because the young roots, being near the surface, are subject to the rather violent fluctuations of early spring. Being highly bred, they are not as hardy as many suppose. < Fluctuations make sweet peas fall victims to the “yellows,” a pallid condition of the foliage, which holds growth back for weeks. Having tried both methods carefully, we strongly advise you to mulch (says the ‘Dominion’)- But down an inch layer of riddled leaf mould when the seedlings are 2in tall. Work it carefully among the plants and 6in on each side of tho row. Before applying the mulch stir the soil and water well. Beneath this blanket it will be perpetual springtinie even though conditions above are wintry, and your sweet peas will pass the seedling stage—always so critical for them—without hurt.