SIMPLER CLOTHES

Dominion, Volume 35, Issue 280, 25 August 1942, Page 4

SIMPLER CLOTHES

Proposals Submitted

To N.Z. Trade

SAVING MATERIALS AND MANPOWER

Proposals for the simplification of clothing are reported to have been submitted to the trade in New Zealand, embodying restrictions similar to those introduced in other countries. When these come into force, it is expected that no more full-length frocks, including afternoon, evening and dinner frocks, will be manufactured. Garments which, it is understood, may not be made include bridge coats, coatees, cloaks or wraps, except waterproof capes; costumes, or suits of more than two garments; beach-wear, excepting bathing suits, shirts or shorts; and two-piece frocks including ensembles with long coats, jackets or boleros.

Following the announcement recently made by the Minister of 'Supply that simplification of clothing is being undertaken in New Zealand, proposals’ formulated by the Standards Institute, working in collaboration with the Director of Production, the National Service Department and representative manufacturers, to give effect to this have been received by manufacturers of men’s, women's, boys’ and girls’ outer clothing. The object is to conserve both materials and manpower. Production of clothing on modified austerity lines will follow fairly closely the practice now adopted in other countries, with due consideration for climate and other special conditions. The proposals which have been circulated to for simplified outer clothing for women and girls, the effective date for the operation of which has yet to be fixed, will, it is reported, not include 'bridal gowns, service uniforms, clothing for persons requiring special garments because of physical abnormality, garments solely for theatrical productions, maternity dresses, infants’ wear (up to two years of age), or religious vestments or robes for other approved orders ’or institutions. Length of Skirts.

It is suggested that women’s and girls’ garments shall not be manufactured with seams oversewn by hand; yokes of double material (except school tunics)-; 'balloon or leg-of-mutton sleeves; more than two patch pockets on coats or one on skirts; separate or attached hood, shawl, cape, muff, scarf, bag or hat; skirts having a bottom width or sweep of more than 78in.; costume skirts with more than two pleats; and skirts having a floor clearance of less than 14in. for sizes up to 40in. hips and of less than lOin. for hip sizes 41in. and; over. , Practically similar exceptions from the proposed simplification code are allowed for men’s and boys’ outer clothing as for women and girls, who have one extra class applicable to them only. Restrictions which have been suggested for men’s, youths’ and boys’ coats apply principally to the non-manufac-ture of belts or half-belts; doublebreasted fronts; pockets more than four in number and having flaps, tags or buttons; buttons or button-holes which are not used; facings of more than 4in.; pleats or yokes or raised seams, vents; hems more than l-l in. wide; sleeves fancy or open or with buttons. Similar restrictions are proposed for sports coats, but they will not be allowed more than three pockets. Unnecessary Features to Go.

It is proposed that blazers should not be manufactured with material which can- be used for outer clothing for men or women. This will not apply to schoolboys. Linings will not be permitted, nor braids or ornamental cords. Waistcoats, it is proposed, should not be manufactured with back straps, unnecessary buttons, or double-breasted fronts. It is intended that trousers, including sports wear, should not be manufactured with cuffs, pleats, raised seams, tunnel loops, hems more than 14hi. wide. Overcoats should not. be. made with facings more than 6in. wide, belts or half-belts, unnecessary buttons, double-breasted or fly-fronts; pockets with tabs, buttons or flaps (except on raincoats); more than two pockets; a greater length than 14in. from the floor; excessive linings and other unnecessary features. Footwear Designs.

For some time the footwear trade has had special specifications covering designs in women’s shoes, and these will become operative on October 1. It is considered that there is insufficient diversity in the designs of men’s footwear to warrant the introduction of a simplified scheme of manufacture for them. A special formula has been drawn up determining .the number of designs according to output. Where the output does not exceed 20,000 pairs there will be 20 designs, with two additional designs for each 1000 pairs after that figure up to 100,000. There will not be more than 18 cut-outs on any one shoe, and'except on the tags of court shoes underlays will not be used.