NEW AUTUMN MANTLES. [From "The Queen."]

Waikato Times, Volume XXVI, Issue 2128, 27 February 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

NEW AUTUMN MANTLES. [From "The Queen."]

[From I propose to describe some of the new autumn mantles which area fair criterion of what is likely to be worn during the comiug season. Astrakhan — that is woollen rcpioductioas of the fur —is a leading idea in thick materials : and the new Litaiw, with its woollen ground, covered with large Gothic aud geometric designs, carried out m frise velvet. The colourings are brown 3 of all tones, from a deep leather colour to seal brown and black. Otter is largely used, also black furs, such as foy and skuuk, with tail fringes that are generally squirrel dyed. Much cheo'lle fi'ngo is used, and a handsome brown plush mantle was remarkable for the addition of small real fir cones to the tips of tho chenille fringe dyed to match. Tb's was made as a large cape mantelotte, with long ends in front cotn'-ig from beneath the plush, and composed of stiiped silk and plush. It had a waistcoat, and handsome pat-senienterie outlined the seams at the back. Gold cord, and threads of gold wherever they can be addad w Ithouc being too assertive and prouoncc, appear in many of the best models. Another brow a plush which had gold coid trimiDinsjs, was of the same capc-lik' 1 form, but had sling sleeves roaching to the edije of the front, and two wide box plaits at tho waist, bordered throughout with wide skunk. Another round mantclctto of cashmeriennc and stiiped velvet had ailch combination of feather trimming. There was a band of metallic green cocks' plumes all round, with sh'idod brown ostrich forming a fringe. It was lined with shot *>ilk. The rosary or eoera beads, viz., carved wooden beads, are much used, intermixed with the fringe and galon?. Many quite shoit mantclettes aro likely to bo wo. i. Ono of these, m-ido in rich brocade, had ends in front, with a small muff in each, ono for eaoh hand, and ti jelly-bag hood at tho back. Astrakan bordciings and wool fiinges figure largely in tho- now mantles. Ono of the moro costly, made in tho Litana, was caught up at the back and sides with handsome passementerie drops, showing a plush undermantk. Another class forms a complete costume in itself. These aro made chiefly of rich plush or frise velvet, having panels of distinct material, decided sleeves, and large gimp epaulettes pliiced on the top of the shoulders, handsome passementeiie conr lg far down the back. Many of them open at the side. Some of tho mantelotte order are made of plush and watered si'k stripes, bordered with deep fox fur; these havo Ions; ends in front imd pockets it tho sides. A handsome one of this make in. velvet was almost covered with ;i galon of theros.iry beads, and a fiiugo of pcndeljques of the same wood bordered it. Tho old visito shape Avould seem to be as-citing it<e'f ouco again, -with plenty of gold and M'k gimp on tho front and sides. Tins shape finds special favour for opera, mantles, male iv satin, trimmed with broad galon carried down tho bluck seams; white and gold, blue and gold, Chinese led and gold, are tho favourite tones, the lining being quilted. The travelling cloaks are still full and long, with hanging sleeves; some have caps. The fluted back is the newest, and the sleeves aic lined with silk of a bright colour. The great fault of recent -nantles has been their weight; now there is a choice ; and the shoit mautelettes, with long ends, are just as warm as the long all-round cloaks, aud half their weight. The short jackets of the season are trim and smart. Some of them have vests of watering silk edged with fringe, and fastened at the. side, the basque, short at the back, forming plaits. They are cut to show the figure to perfection ; but curiously, the front of bodice is cut often on the cross with no darts. They are bordered with gold cord some of them, and the cloth itself slightly speckled with gold ; revers of brown velvet, a velvet collar and pockets, add to their appearance. Sorr>e again have very high dart seams. Dainty bows of ribbon aie introduced in front in licit of a coloured handkerchief, and a bunch of bows appears at tho side. Real Astrakhan is very expensive, stups an inch or so in width costing at least 15s or 20s per yard. It is the fleece of a particular kind ot sheep which is found in the province of Astrakhan, situated on the Caspian Sea. The fleeces which are considered the best —namely, those which have a soft and curly appearance—aro furnished by the lambs. Good imitation Astrakhan is made and sold at a reasonable price.

A w ATcnMAKER in Newcastle is said to have completed a set of three gold shirtstuds, in one of \\ Inch is a watch that keeps excellent time, the dial being about three eights of an inch in diameter. Tl.e three studs aic connected by a strip of silver inside the bosom ; an 1 the watch contained in the middle one is wound up by turning the stud above, and the hands aic set by turning the one below. A Typio4i, Fiockk Vanished. — The gicat house of Bcicsford has furnished to the service of this realm, both in Chinch and State, many noble and distinguished sons, soldieis and statesmen, sportsmen and parsons. The patriarch of the family, the Archbishop of Armagh, who passed away peacefully on a recent Saturday morning possessed in a high degree the good looks and fine presence for which the Beresfords arc famed, and he was at least as well known and liked on this side of the Irish Channel as on the other. The see of Armaph is to that of Dublin what Cantcibury is to Yoik, but only rarely has its pie eminence bc-m more than titular. Mtgoe, Wh.iteloy, Trend), and now Plunket, have given special lustre t > thee sec of Dublin in our own days. The late Aichbiahop's was a well Known firruio in London. Accompanied by hn daughter and charming gianddaughters (now Mrs Oraid and Countess of Durham), who made his London house their home, he was a daily visitor to the Paik dining the season. His latter years were not unclouded by domestic trials ; the tragic death of Mis Milnrr was a tenble shock to him, which tin Durham suit did nothing to soften, and he broke down japidlyaftei it. He wa3 a prelate— almost the last— of the oW school.