WAIKA TO RIVER AND HEADS. Trip by the Delta.

Waikato Times, Volume XVI, Issue 1347, 17 February 1881, Page 2

WAIKA TO RIVER AND HEADS. Trip by the Delta.

An .excursion on the rirer, including a trip to the ocean bench is one of the provisions a bountiful natural dispensation has placed within easy access of residents in thece parts. Considering bhe variety of charm an excursion of the kind affords, it is Hurprising trips of tho kind are not more numerous than they have been. In the matter of suoh romantic 'attractions as mountain, wood, and flood, and indeed every other condition requisite for completing the beautiful in landscape scenery no locality could be endowed to much better advantage. The river itself isa marvel of change in scenery and variety of charm. Starting from Cambridge its banks are deep, and in many respects the stream is narrow and tortuous. In fact the view is almost exclusively confined within compass of the river's channel, a circumstance apt to convey to the mind an idea that it is in reality little better than a mere mountain torrent. In the neighbourhood of Hamilton it becomes more expansive, its banks terraced,- and the surrounding prospect otherwise opened up and extended. At Ngaruawahia the transition is even more marked. Its bed is pretty much on a level with the neighbouring country, and in that way the view obtained of the surrounding district becomes, practically speaking, unrestricted. Passing Ngaruawahia, the waters of the Waikato mingle with those of the Waipa, the conjoined volumn assuming all the proportion of a. really noble river, with a breadth in many places approaching the size of a river firth or estuary. It is not, however until we come to the lewer reaches in the vicinity of its confluence with the sea, that the real beauty and magnificence of the stream are fully developed. There it partakes of the characteristics of the lake or chain of lakes', with their surface dotted over with islands, while vast amphitheatres of wood and dell, stretch away amongst hills and head-lands, as far as the eye can reach. Anything grander or more picturesque, it would be difficult to imagine. Then again, there is another kind of interest awakened by the scenes, and associations connected with this river. In the early history, and the domestic annals of the place, no district has played a more important part than that of the country laved by the waters of some of its lower reaches. The stirring events of 1863 are now little more fchan a page in recorded history, closed to all executing the researches of the more curious *stil\ they are kept alive in the memories of not a few, of the, older residents, and amongst that still few.er number who took an active part in them, they are cherished ,with all the fbnd recollections of the early adventure. ' 'One of the latter class, * writes, ' our re " porter "was a passenger by the Delta and to him I am indebted for much valuable information communicated to me in the way of personal reminiscence, of which we shall learn more anon. Suffice in the meantime to say that all the principal events in the Waikato war were enacted within hail of the river, or the river itself became a powerful factor in overthrowing the machinations of the adversary, and completing the strategies of war. As the steamer went churning along, one spot was. indicated as the scene of a sanguinary conflict, another, as that of a sharp skirmish. Here a surprise party did good execution, and there an ambuscade was laid or a mine planted, which, on beinsr exploded, did good or bad service, according to the side on whose behalf the sympathies of the occasion are enlisted." Furthermore we have the part played by the river in more peaceful times— in the material aid it gave to open up and foster trade and commerce. Recent developments may have rendered us, as a district, to some extent independent of the river traffic. Nevertheless we are still far from underrating its importance, and even although that importance had not survived, we cannot altogether divest ourselves of the memories of tho past, and so long as these memories remain the river and river traffic must to a large extent be bound up in them. Having thus in a general way sketched a few of tho natural features by which the interest of the occasion was more powerfully exicted, I will now, writes our special reporter, proceed to furnish a brief outline of the excursion itself, reserving more minute details for a future occasion. The weather throughout was everything that could have been desired ; perhaps just a trifle hot. Still, that was a minor drawback which the vessel's awnings and the steward's bottled beer went far to alleviate. The excursionists all told, numbered some thirty, sufficient to make things lively without causing the accommodation to be over-crowded. Ladies and children mustered in large proportions, a fact which showed the trip was well thought of in the way of a family excursion. Each of the three townships, Cambridge, Hamilton, and Ngaruawahia contributed about equal numbers ; Huntly and certain other townbhips lower down, supplying a small quota. Ample provision appeared to be made by the passengers themselves, for " camping out "rugs, blanketings, end other haps of that description being plentiful. Leaving Hamilton on Saturday morning at 10.30., the Delta touched en route at Ngaruawahia, and from thence proceeded direct to Huntly, where she was detained sometime coaling. The next stoppage was at a place known as Churchill, a sequestered spot on the wept bank of the liver, mid-way between Mercer and Huntly. Besides a fine shady position on the river's bank, for which it is indebted to a forest of willows, Churchill has some well cultivated garden plots, and although but a small place, it has got a really thrifty look For its material prosperity, I am told it is largely indebted to r Mr Charles Bell, who carries ou^ofierations in the utilization of native flax upon rather an extensive scale. Besides dressing up the raw material, he has erected a manu- ' factory for spinning it into ropes, and in one way or other provides for a considerable quantity of labor. Maoris and halfcasts are employed by him in large numbers, the former being mostly engaged cutting the flax and conveying it to the mill. From all I could learn, Mr Bell is what would be termed "a good man for a district." He has been engaged in the flax trade for a considerable time, and has experienced the reverses incidental to its pursuit. His trade Is now said to be in a prosperous condition, and altogether he seems to be a man meriting success. A neat and rather commodious school-house is about being 'completed, judging from the size of which' I should imagine Churchill to be the centre of rather a populous district. Beyond this the river meanders away in a fine broad sheet, with an open channel intersected by a few islands, and passes Rangitiki en route to Mercer, In dealing with the latter, lam afraid I must give it but a very indifferent reputation. If not a snare, the very first appearance its presents from the river is most certainly a delusion. 'On a point of land jutting out from above the township is situated a row of smoked-begrimed, tree-trunk^ which, seen in, the distance, , presents all, the appearance of a forest of Bmoke-Btackß encouraging the belief that , the traveller is approaching' s place of considerable maritime importance, < 3tto doubt 0e disappointment; occasioned by this bcult delusion, ,militctes against the, realities of the situation. Still, jtftetf

k maklntf every poirible •Uowanot lot the '" revulsion of feeling" arising therefrom. Mercer ii about as woe-begono a apot M oould well be oonoeired. An lor maritime importance, it does not extend beyond » tolerably substantial wharf, a demoralisedlooking coal-scow, two or three dilapidated canoes, together with an equal number of the still les« pretentious dig-outa. The through railway traffic hat completely " cooked",' the town, \rhioh,,Tie wed from the river, is about as famble-down a plaoe a« could well imagine. One tenement facing the wharf, built * few yean ago for hotel purpose* at a cost of £3000 or £4000 w* sold, the other! day for; Jt^H, ,f depreciation which proves the prospects of the ■place to be of the very poorest;' --Biyond Mercer the. river, passes .through scenery romantic in the extreme. On the one hand the hills are wooded down to, the water* edge, and on the other the land surgesjlway into gentle declivities, suggesting to the mind's eye the ide* that under a. proper system of cultivation, it would be ci* teemed first-class undulating country. The current at this place is very still, and, under the placid influences of last Sat* urday afternoon, it had all the appearance of a mill • pond, with a surface as smooth, and well mirrored, as a look* ing-glass. In this neighbourhood then is a singular rocky blunj the name of which did not transpire. It rises perpendicularly from the waters' edge to perhaps four or five hundred feet. It hat got a kind of traditionary importance, inasmuch as that a Maori chief of great renown in the ancient feudally* of Maoridom, is said to have fourifl )j .,m; ! Tast/ resting-place in one of its ledges^, *^|Fhe exact ledge was pointed out, bat' that did not assist the mind in realising the authenticity of the tale. The ledge in . question is situated midway on the face of the rock, and the difficulty is to re* alise the means employed for approaching it, either from beneath or from above. The story may be true, but I should uay it lacks confirmation. The face of "the rock presents a singular appearance. It looks for all ' the world like some gigantic castellated, • structure, with turrets, fortifications, and other out* works all complete. A portion of the rock at the lower end has been quarried for building purposes; foundations for Hamilton and Ngaruawahia bridges having been hewn from this metal. In her progress downwards the Delta soon became enveloped in tbe shades of night, and for the time being all further observation was shut out. Here and there a feeble gleam of light indicated the presence of a settlers home, or the dying embers at a Maori encampment, the latter of which, as we afterward discovered, were numerous along the shores of the different islands amongst which the river flows. Just before the moon had risen, and consequently when the night was at its darkest, a mishap occurred which threatened to stay further progress for an indefinite period. As it was, a couple of hours were wasted in the effort to get on. The steamer grounded on a sandbank, and for a time at least no coaxinjr on the part of the engines could induce it to move either head or tail. Before we had beeu long in this predicament a cloud of mo^quitos came sailing on board, and it was wonderful to note the effect their visit had in the way of stimulating our endeavors. Theretofore we appeared quite resigned to the situation, content to believe that if we did not get away for a few hours it would not much matter, as the river being tidal we would be sure to get to our destination when the water rose, and so reach the " Beads '' by break of day. With the arrival of the mottquitos, however, the tuae changed ; every one saw more clearly than another the im. portance for getting off at once, and in pursuance thereof each and all were prepared to do their level best to aid in th» movement. A warp was run out and made fast to the beach. Then commenced a long and what seemed a most williag tug. For the nonce the effort was unavailing. A few more mosquito progs were succeeded by increased exertions, the end being that we were all made happy by feeling the vessel slide gently down into deep water. Full steam was put on, but, as the sequel proved, wo did not have enough "go in us" to give the ißoaquitos "the go-by." However, the discovery was not made for some hours later, and I will not anticipate matters by ruahiny forward to meet the evil half way. The night was cloudy, so that the moon was at no time bright ; still, when at its brightest, the scene opened out to one of a most impressive character. We found ourselves skimming the surface of a broad lake, the still, smooth waters of which mirrored forth every gleam of light Bhed down by the " heavenly hosts." In the remote distance a grim, dark-looking mountain rose to a great height, to which the shadows of the night gave majestic awe. In the immediate vicinity rose a succession of hills, clothed from top to bottom in mantlings of fine drift sand, on some of the lighter portions of which the beams of the moon played with phosphoric radiance. Then, from beyond all, came the dull, rumbling sound of the ocean, breaking out into heavy thuds as the surf rolled up on to the beach. It was a most enjoyable sail, being in every respect a moonlight excursion under circumstances of exceptional novelty. For fanning the gentle muses, or sharpening the arrows of Cupid, no condition in life could have been more propitious. lam afraid, however, that there was out little in tbe shape of poetical inspiration on board, and as for Cupid and his darts, if they did find a resting-place inside the ark of the Delta, they had "been sobered down to the more prosaic routine of domestic felicity. Meantime, the paddle-wheels were making a given number of revolutions per minute, and by that means we were soon wafted across the lake, and in due course the steamer was made fast to Port Waikatx>*rharf. That was oar first formal introduction to the port, and, lik* x prudent people, as we claimed to be, m torthwith proceeded to improve the »> • quaintance for our mutual advantage. It was now 1 1 o'clock p. m., and to all appear* ance Fort Waikato had gone to bed. We could see a number of houses, but not a single light, nor yet for a time could we obtain any other sign of [animation than that- produced by the midnight wveU of a flock of geese, who -were, having a carousal on the lake in pursuance of their own peculiar methrds for dissipation. An alarm was sounded from the steam-whistle, to which the geese in q,ue*tioi&e«ponded | in a way which showed they looked upon I the performance with great glee, and, to > the best of their ability, accorded the per* former a hearty encore. One or two more bars from the whistle having been given, we ' we're all made hajjpy by the appearance of an. aged Maori coming hobbling down tbe wharf with as much speed as the amenities required for the good government of his blanket-kilt would admit of. After a deal of broken English and what I am disposed to think was equally broken Maori, oar dasky friend seemed in his own hazy hulking 1 way to M take in the situation," and in due course some brighter specimens of humanity were brought 'to taok. Now commenced a scene of bustle and exciteraent which I venture to say Port Waikato has been a stranger to rahce the memorable occasion on which the Imperial troops struck; 'tent^in' terms of the order for ; reoal. : , We^ were feonveyed^ en MUMtft-to what were called theicottages, where we:w<^ J *ssnre,(|j,sYery, provision existed for our comfort and' accommodation. In this we were not misinformed, andon bJlanMs rugs, auq other improvised beds and beddings wow ewagged took, to the cottages.

Ample m their accommodation proved there" ittill remained' a Very respectable rtmnent of our voyageura left oat ia the <*I<l. Thote fcelplesi cnet made their way back to the steamer ia search of that balmy deep rendered doubly neooes'•axjr by the exigences of the occasion. How, f*r they Buoceeded in this laudable endeavour is soon told, and in relating the , fact I shall confine myself to what canto under my own immediate observation. • Oqe detachment of the non-cottaged ones bivbuaekedonthesteamer'sdeokjtliesaloon - and other shattered situations being preengaged. ' The night was fine, and ;the~ situation was a trifle ex- ' poaed no apprehensions were entertained as regards either wind or weather. Un> fortunately we had an equally subtle enemy to contend with against whioh no provision was made. I have already intioduoed your readers to the mosquitoes, whose visit, or rather intrusions, took place during the stay we made on the sandbank. Unknown to us these pests had taken up their quarters in the crevices of tho vessel, and no sooner had we retired to rest and left the coast clear than they, merging from their lurking places, rendered tho vigils of the night a irtrikinfr contrast to everything that savored of peace and repose. In the case of one venerable old gentloman of the party, the circumstances were particularly painful. He was a man of correct clerical exterior, and throughout the previous part of the excursion, was noted for his mild beneficent demeanour. No man could possibly hare earned a better reputation, and but for the contaminating influences of these social pests, I am bound to believe he would have succeeded in maintaining his integrity and establishing his character, at least for the remainder of the voyage. Alas, however, under the torturing effects of this mosquito plague, the gold became dim and his most fine gold changed. The growth of grace in the soul of man, is a favorite theme of debate with a certain class of divines. They love to trace its gradual stages of development, and to diacant upon their separate results. Tho case of my aged friend, was a notable example in the opposite direction. It was, so to speak, a panoramic view of the rapid strides a really goodinanof flOHnd Christian principle, will make in the wax s of the wicked, when he has the misfortune to be attacked by certain outward evil influences. No sooner had this orthodox one wrapped himself up in his blankets, and in the consciousness of moral rectitude, resigned himself to the soothing influences, reserved exclusively as a reward for the virtuous, than he was observed making sundry impatient kicks, as if struggling — metaphorically, of course, to repel the assaults of the devil. These were succeeded by a few stifled groans. At length further reserve became impossible, and in a mild, remonstrating tone, he remarked, " Well, indeed, these animal 1 ) are a perfect nuisance." After making one or two more revolutions he was again roused to the expletive pitch. On that occasion there was a considerable amount of asperity in his tone as he remarked, " Confound these brutes, they would out-do the patience of Job." Further revolutions, accompanied by even less guarded expletives, ensued. At length his tone became downright wicked, while somo of his remarks approximated the diabolical, the whole culminating in a series of sardonic grimaces, together with the utterance : "Oh Heaven that I should be roasted alive ia thii way." My unbappy friend apparently felt that he had now dropped down to the lowest level of degradation, for, after that, he made one more savage turn on the stern-po^t, and resigned himself to a species of gnashing of teeth for the remainder of the night. I have dwelt at some length on this sad case. It is not at all unreasonable that I should do so, seeing that by this time we had got well advanced into the Sabbath morning, a season when a few salutary reflections cannot be considered out of place. With the view of affording reasonable time for digesting I wi'l delay further remarks ior your next issue.