POINTS FOR NOVICES

Wairarapa Times-Age, 5 January 1940, Page 8

POINTS FOR NOVICES

TN GROWING DAFFODILS. It may at the moment seem astonishingly early to talk of daffodils for next season, but it is, nevertheless, true that, in so far as exhibition flowers are concerned, an early start is halt’ the battle. Proof of this statement is to be found in the fact that stocks of many of the finest varieties are not available after early April. Growers who are also exhibitors will not keep bulbs out of the soi.l after that date. This is not surprising, when it is considered that daffodils, unlike tulips and hyacinths, are never really dormant. It is a tribute to their wonderful vitality that they can be lifted, dried, and stored in the same manner. Left in the soil, as they usually are, for two or three seasons on end, root growth never ceases. Obviously, then, exhibitors, who must study every possible point, should see to it that the bulbs are planted just as soon as they can be obtained, and after the shortest possible period out of the soil. It is useless to expect blooms of exhibition quality if the bulbs are planted in shallow, ill-prepared soil in any corner of the garden. Competition at daffodil shows is keen, and it is only) growers who are prepared to go to all I reasonable lengths to ensure that the! plants have every chance, who are likely to win prizes. Provide Shelter From Wind. A suitable site must be selected, and some weeks in advance of planting the soil must be very thoroughly prepared. Daffodils are not shade-loving plants, although they are so often grown under deciduous trees. The reason why they can be relied upon to thrive in such sites is that trees are not fully in leaf when the bulbs are flowering, and in any case, it is only in thin woodland that they will give a good account of themselves. The ideal site for an exhibition bed is where they will have the benefit of shelter from the prevailing winds, but practically full exposure to sunshine. Shelter from winds is a most important point, for, if the flowers are dashed about after they have passed the bud stage, it will be a wellnigh impossible task to select any blooms fit for the exhibition table. If no shelter is available, then endeavour should be made to select a site where it will be a simple matter to rig up temporary screens of canvas or tiffany cloth while the plants are actually in bloom. Daffodils, as is fairly well known, are plants which appreciate a generous diet, and for this reason soil preparation must be thorough. Always it should be considered essential to dig to a depth of a full two spits. Opportunity should be taken _.to incorporate a good dressing of humus-forming manure. Well-rotted manure is ideal,

1 but it must be thoroughly well rotted. Daffodils, like other bulbs, have no liki ing for fresh dung. Failing a supply of manure, prepared peat or hop manure is suitable, and in every case there should also be an addition of bonemeal at the rate of three ounces to the square yard. Beds should be marked out before planting. A good width to have them is about four feet six inches. If more than one is necessary leave eighteeninch wide paths between. This will do away with any necessity for standing on the beds when tending the plants of cutting the flowers, and it is a point of more importance than is readily imagined. The bulbs must, of course, be allowed growth, and, as a rule, it will be found that, if one foot is allowed between the rows and nine inches from bulb to bulb in the rows, this will be amply sufficient. Depth at which to plant is a | point that is very easily settled. The i bulbs should be covered with soil to a I depth of two to three times their own I size, measuring from base to shoulder; ’ and according to whether the soil is heavy or light. There is little to be done after planting. The soil should be stirred occasionally with the hoe to prevent it capping, but this is a practice which must be discontinued in the spring until such time as the shoots mark the positions of the rows. If the soil has been thoroughly prepared before planting, there will be no need for feeding of any description, and all the grower will be called upon to do is hoeing, and, if necessary as the season advances, watering and shading. A Selection. It is, of course, of the utmost importance that a good collection of varieties should be grown. Delightful though such old favourites as Sir Watkin and Emperor may be in the garden, they have not the form or the quality to compete on a show bench. Not many amateurs will be prepared to purchase the very newest. They are extremely expensive, but there are today available good show varieties at quite reasonable prices, and it is from amongst these that a choice should be made. It is not claimed for the following list that it includes all of the best of the more moderately priced varieties. Thic much can be said, however. Each one mentioned is good and dependable and up to exhibition standard: — Trumpets.—Dawson City, Beersheba. Tresserve, and Michael. Incomparabilis. — Croesus, Great Warley, Helios, John Evelyn, and Folly. Barri. —Firetail, Mrs Barclay, and Carminowe. Leedsi. —Mitylene, Mystic, and White Nile. Poeticus. —Caedmon and Red Rim. Doubles. —Irene Copeland, Mary Copeland, Primrose Phoenix (A.M., H.R.S.), and Twink. — “Wym,” hi “Amateur Gardening.”