GROW BEET

Wairarapa Times-Age, 5 January 1940, Page 8

GROW BEET

SOME USEFUL HINTS.

The original type of the cultivated beet was first introduced in England in 1548. Prior to that date it was cultivated extensively by both the Greeks and the Romans. The Grecians especially held the roots in high esteem, and it was their custom, it appears, to offer them on silver plates to Apollo in his temple of Delphos.

From the same source we also learn that they used the leaves in preference to lettuce, and placed a weight on the plant to convert the foliage into a cabbage. The old physicians and herbalists attached a great deal of importance to the medicinal value of the roots and leaves. Well-grown beetroot is a much appreciated component of the salad bowl, is greatly esteemed as a relish with cold meats, and as a pickle. The richer the colour and the more tender and succulent the roots, the greater is this wholesome vegetable appreciated. Pale, tough and wiry roots are only fit for cattle feeding. Beetroot prefers a deep, sandy soil, or a light soil free from stones. Heavy clay soils do not suit this vegetable; they cause the growth to be rank and the roots flavourless. ' A sunny, open position, too. is indispensable. To get the soil in good condition, it should be dug up roughly or ridged in autumn and occasionally well forked over in spring. In the case of heavy soils, adopt the plan advised further on of making holes and filling these with good compos;.

On shallow, stony soils, the turniprooted sorts only should be grown. Good beetroot cannot be grown in rank soil. consequently stable manure should not be added the previous winter to soils intended to be cropped with this vegetable. Land should be chosen that has been liberally manured for a previous crop. Those who live near the sea should, when digging the land in autumn, bury a liberal quantity of seaweed in the bottom of the trench. Where seaweed cannot be obtained, apply at the time of digging 2oz of kainit per square yard, or after the plants have made two or three leaves give an application of ordinary salt at the rate of one ounce to the yard run of row. When preparing the soil, apply 2oz of superphosphate and loz of sulphate of ammonia per square yard at the time of sowing. On light, sandy soils, common salt may be applied in place of superphosphate and ammonia at the rate of two

to three ounces per square yard a week before sowing. Dr Griffiths recommends the bed to be watered with a solution of sulphate of iron, one ounce to a gallon of water, after the plants are thinned. This serves the double purpose of providing food and killing fungoid pests in the soil.

Advantage should be taken of fine weather to fork the land over frequently to get it in good tilth. Assuming the land to be in good order, draw drills one and a half inches deep on heavy, and two inches deep on light soils, and a foot to fifteen inches apart. A foot in sufficient for the moderate growers, and fifteen inches for the roI bust ones. Sow the seeds thinly along I the drills; or better still, drop two or | three seeds at intervals of eight inches. The latter plan economises the seed, and saves much labour afterwards in thinning. Cover the seeds at once by means of a rake and leave the surface level. Some growers make a practice of steeping the seeds in water for a few hours before sowing, and it certainly facilitates germination. When the seedlings are two to three inches high, thin them out to eight inches apart in the row. Should there be any failures in the rows, carefully transplant some of the best of the thinnings to fill such vacancies. This work is best done in showery weather. Future operations consist of keeping the soil frequently hoed between the plants, to destroy weeds and aerate it.

Great care is required in lifting beetroot, so as not to break the tap-root. If bruised or broken the sap will ooze out, and with it the colouring matter, leaving the flesh pale. In lifting throw out the soil on one side, and with a spade, thrust down perpendicularly on the opposite side, lifting out each root separately. There must be no “tugging" at the root; the lifting must be done by means of the spade alone. A fork is apt to slip and pierce the roots, hence a spade is best. When lifted, twist, not cut; off the foliage close to the crown of the root. Cutting causes the root to bleed and lose its colour. It is not wise to leave the roots exposed too long to the air. so take them to the storehouse as soon as possible after lifting. The best place in which to store beetroot is a dark cellar or outhouse into which frost cannot easily penetrate. Here place a layer of sand on the floor, then add another layer of beet, one of sand, and so on. If the heap be away from the wall the I roots may bo arranged in two rows, the; crowns pointing outwards.

When the seedlings are three inches high, thin them out to one at each hole. A pinch of guano may afterwards be applied to each plant. For exhibition beetroot should be a foot in length, of medium size, regularly formed, evenly tapering, with a clear skin and free from blemishes of all kinds. The turnip-rooted kinds should be of medium size, fairly deep, and have small tap-roots. Coarseness and irregularity I of size are great faults.