IN THE GARDEN

Wairarapa Times-Age, 26 May 1939, Page 9

IN THE GARDEN

HINTS FOR THE AMATEUR

WORK FOR THE WEEK

RED AND WHITE CURRANTS

SOME PRUNING HINTS. HOW TO EXTEND FRUITING SEASON. Red and white currants, unlike the black, bear their fruit on the old wood in little groups of buds like spurs, and consequently their pruning is quite different. Beginning with a young three-stemmed bush, it is cut back to nine inches from the fork in the first year, in the second year all the side growths with the exception of the two top ones are cut back to half-an-inch from the old stem, and the two top growths are shortened to nine inches if growth is strong, to six inches of it is weak. In the next winter the side shoots are again pruned back to half-an-inch, and the two top ones to six inches, thus making twelve branches altogether, which is enough when the bushes are planted six feet apart. The pruning of older bushes consists of cutting back the side growths to half-an-inch and shortening the main shoot to six inches until the bushes reach their maximum height, when three inches extension of the main branches will be enough. When bushes are old and unfruitful it is better to cut them out altogether and plant young ones, but as the young ones do not bear much fruit for the first two years, it would be better to replace one or two bushes every year, until the lot are renewed. Red and white currants are hardier than black and can be grown in a cooler and more shady position; in fact, they are very suitable for planting on the shady side of a wall or fence. When grown against a wall or fence they are better trained as single or double cordons. For double cordons a two branches plant is select- ** ed. This is planted against the wall or fence and cut back to six inches from the fork in the first year. Next winter all side growths are cut back to half-an-inch and the main shoots, which , are tied in at nine inches apart, are shortened back to nine inches. This 'pruning is carried on until the stems reach the top of their support when . they are spurred back every year. By growing a number of bushes in ; the open and a few plants against a , shady wall the fruiting season is extended by several weeks for red and ( white currants hang on when ripe so long as they are protected from birds ; and it is easier to protect plants grow- ; ing against a wall or fence by means < of nets or thin scrim than when grow- . ing bush -shaped in the open. Goose- . berries can also be trained as cordons i ■pgainst a wall or fence, and by follow- ( ing the same method of pruning as| t that for red currants they will bear i crops of excellent fruit for dessert. • After pruning the gooseberries and < currants the primings should be raked j up and burned, for they often harbour c insect and fungoid pests though neither : bushes are very susceptible to attacks . from pests. If the old wood is covered ; with green moss or lichen, dust them with quicklime when they are wot with rain or dew or spray them with weak caustic soda. Lime is the simplest f and what falls to the ground is of ad- 1 vantage to the soil. It would be a good e idea to give the bushes a dusting of f lime at the rate of four ounces to the Is square yard whether they are infest- t ed with moss or lichens on not. The v soil should be drawn away from round g the stem of the bushes and a mulch of t

FRUIT, FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES

VEGETABLE GARDEN. Asparagus beds not yet dealt with should be given the attention previously advised. Sow a few rows of an early variety of pea; see that the site is well drained. Cut down Asparagus when ripened off; clean the beds of weeds and seedlings and apply a dressing of manure. Plant shallots, tree and potato onions; make sowings of onion seed for later crops. Remove any decaying leaves from the winter spinach, also overgrown leaves unfit for use. FLOWER GARDEN. Lawns on heavy land are improved by a good dressing oflsand; apply now about one inch thick. Make good the worn surfaces jof garden paths before the weather becomes too wet. Window boxes will be improved if the dead leaves are removed, and the soil pricked over. When the soil is dry enough plant out annuals for spring blooming. Stocks, Iceland poppies, primula, calendula, violas and pansies may be planted. Keep the soil well hoed between anemones and ranunculus that are above ground. Stocks require a well drained position; the digging in of animal manures is inclined to hold too much moisture for stocks. Weed and lightly fork between the bulbs that are showing through the soil. Plant evergreen trees and shrubs, roses and herbaceous plants. Shrubs where planted too thickly will be the better for thinning out. Now is the (time to do it. The shrubs removed can be used to furnish other portions of the garden. > Cut down the old stems of herbaceous plants; divide and replant those which require attention. FRUIT GARDEN. Transplant evergreen fruit trees while thereis still some warmth in the soil. Trees recently planted but making too rank growth should be lifted and replanted; larger specimens are dealt with by root pruning. When preparing sites for plum, cherry and peach trees, mix some old mortar rubble or lime with the soil. Plant out strawberries as soon as the ground is ready. When new trees arrive they should be “heeled in” at once. If balled-up trees are dry when they arrive, soak with water before planting. Place no manure with the roots of newly-planted trees; any manure is ' better spread on the top and lightly forked in. When the leaves have fallen from the trees -the pruning can be commenced.

It is a good practice to burn all the fallen leaves from fruit trees, as many diseases are carried over on dead leaves. A up in the winter may save a great deal of spraying during the summer month.

well-rotted stable manure applied, afterwards throwing in some clean soil from between the rows to cover it lightly and digging between the rows, burying all weeds and leaves. If farm yard manure is not available, give a dusting of a mixture of two-parts bonemeal and one of kainit applied at the rate of two ounces to the square yard dusted over the service and lightly dug in. This mixture applied after pruning should be followed up by another application when growth commences in the spring. This will consist of superphosphate two-parts and sulphate of potash one-part, the mixture being applied at the rate of one ounce and a-half to the square yard and hoed in. If growth is not satisfactory nitrate of soda applied at the rate of one ounce to the square yard will assist it.

CULTURAL HINTS

.PLANTS THAT MAKE FOR SUCCESS. USE OF LIME AND MANURE. Although most amateurs imagine that exactly the reverse is true, it is small fruit gardens that call for most skill in the planning. The wise gardener will never plant fruit in a haphazard manner, but it is where the largest possible amount of produce has to be taken from limited space that no pains must be spared to ensure that every available inch is occupied to the best advantage. It is no uncommon thing to see quite tiny gardens stocked with overcrowded tree fruits, which, on account of lack of essential air and light cannot do more than eke out a miserable existence. If, instead, the limitations of space had been realised at the outset, many such plots would much more profitbly have been utilised for bush and bramble fruits. It is true that many of them can be grown between tree fruits, but not unless these are so widely spaced as to ensure that the dwarf bushes will not have to struggle only under an overhanging canopy of branches, and it is in few suburban gardens that there is space to permit of successful underplanting. It must be borne in mind, too, bush and bramble fruits will never crop satisfactorily if planted so closely that they tend at a later date to overcrowd.

However, such things as gooseberries, red and white currants can be grown as .cordons, thus occupying far less space than they would in bush form, and, what is more, they will crop over a longer season, and the fruit should be of very much finer quality: Black currants and brambles of any kind can never be grown as trained specimens, for one and all fruit on one-year-old wood. That is, the shoots made one summer arc those retained for fruiting in the following year. Pruning is carried out immediately after fruiting, and consists of cutting out to the ground growths which have already borne fruit.

DISTANCE APART TO PLANT. In average soil it can be taken that gooseberries as bushes will require four to four and a-half feet of space each way. Currants four and a-half feet; rapsberries should be 18 inches apart in the row. with at least five feet between the rows; while blackberries, with their very much more vigorous growth, should be placed a good eight to ten feet apart and the term black-

. berry, in this case, includes may of the hybrid berries, such as the loganberry, lowberry. Veitchberry and ■ others listed in catalogues. The ground for bush fruits must be ■ just as thoroughly prepared as it is for choice apples and pears. Plantations in their case also are of a more or less permanent nature, and, unless the soil in the first place is thoroughly cultivated and well enriched, the time will came when available supplies of nutriment being well-nigh exhausted, there will be a rapid deterioration in the health of the stock and the quantity and quality of the produce it yields. Digging to a depth of two full spits should always be looked upon as an essential in bush fruit cultivation. A good dressing of humus-forming material should be worked in. either animal manure, or some of the recognised substitutes, such as hop manure, composted refuse, or specially-prepared peat. ■ Lime should be added, if it is at all necessary, and bonemeal or crushed bones, at the fairly liberal rate of about four ounces per square yard. This will provide a steady supply of phosphates over a period of years. It is hardly necessary to enlarge on the value of such feeding with fruits of any kind. Endeavour should, of course, be made to get all preparatory work completed some little time in advance of planting, in order that the soil may settle firmly, but this is a process which can be accelerated by treading, making sure that it is done when the soil is reasonably dry. There is no better month for planting that May. for at this season growth is dormant, and thoroughly chilled with winter rains and frost. It is not, however, advisable to delay beyond the end of the month, what cannot be got in by the end of May being left over until the first opportunity in early spring.

PLANTING AND SUPPORTING. Just as soon as the bushes arrive from the nursery they should be carefully examined. Roots are liable to be injured during transit, and all such members should be carefully pruned away with a sharp knife. If this is done, the plants themselves will suffer no harm. Instead, they will rapidly reestablish a fibrous feeding system. The rules to observe when planting are those that are so often quoted. Take out a hole large enough to accommodate al] the roots without curling, spread them, out well, and tread in very firmly. As to depth of planting, there is no better guide than the nursery soil mark on the stem of the plants. The top srfil ’should, of course, be hoed over immediately afterwards to save loss of moisture through capillary action. Raspberries in particular should be planted shallowly, for their root system is always near the surface of the soil. so also the buds for next year’s growth.