FOR THE WOMAN GARDENER

Wairarapa Times-Age, 5 November 1938, Page 8

FOR THE WOMAN GARDENER

SEASONAL HINTS. IMPORTANT FACTORS IN SEED RAISING. If you have not already sown the seeds for the summer annuals, the sooner the task is done the better if you want to reap the benefit of a longer-flowering period. The splendid rains which have fallen recently and the increasing warmth of the sun have brought the soil to fine condition for seed germination, so do not delay getting in the seeds for a bright summer display. Lack of time hinders many a flower lover from tasting the joys of seedraising, and, for them, the seed stores supply hardy seedlings ready to be planted out, but, for those who have the time and leisure to devote to the work, nothing can equal the thrill of putting into the earth the tiny vital specks that soon will blossom into beautiful flowers.

The joy of watching their progress, the uncertainty as to colour and form when new varieties are tried, and the satisfaction when the flower is in full bloom, will more than reward the grower for the time and labour spent. The importance of thorough preparation for seed-raising cannot be stressed too strongly. The first essential is proper drainage in either seed-boxes or seed-beds. If boxes are used, they should have holes drilled in the bottoms and sides, then the boxes should be quarter filled with broken crocks, charcoal, or anything that will let the water drain away freely. On top of this place a layer of fine, free soil about three inches in depth. (If this soil is watered well and roasted over a sheet of iron or baked in the oven before being placed in the boxes, all weeds, insects, or eggs will be destroyed.) Water thoroughly, and allow the water to drain away before putting in the seeds. Watering during germination should be done very gently, so that the seeds may not be disturbed. Very small seeds should be mixed with a little fine soil, and just pressed firmly into the soil. Larger seeds should be inserted about three times their own depth, firm sowing being at all times essential. A layer of peat moss on top helps to conserve the moisture, and to keep the soil from caking. The boxes should be shaded from strong sun or hot winds. When the seedlings are large enough, they can be transplanted to another box or bed before being moved to their permanent positions in the garden. The beds and borders must be prepared for the new seedlings, so, to ensure healthy, vigorous growth, dig the soil deeply, and incorporate with it some well-decayed cow manure and some complete fertiliser. Useful Annuals.

Many herbaceous borders suffer from periods of barrenness, no matter how carefully one may plan. This is because sufficient use is not made of hardy annuals and biennials to supplement the perennials and bulbs. It is in filling up the vacant spaces in the borders that the annuals prove, their value, as they help to maintain a succession of bloom at a very small cost. Many annual seeds can be sown where they are to grow, thus doing away with the bother of preparing boxes or seed-boxes for them. '

The following list of seeds which can be sown to advantage straight into the borders may prove helpful. They can be thinned out when the seedlings are large enough. Amaranthus. These foliage plants with leaves of crimson and gold, and yellow and green, are particularly handsome and ornamental. During the growing period they need plenty of manure and water, and they should have a place in the sunniest part of the garden. Antirrhinums or snapdragons. These plants will thrive in almost any soil or situation. Centaurea (cornflowers and sweet sultans).

Calliopsis, eschscholtziaS, and gaillardias. These will thrive well in hot, sunny positions.

Cosmos, gypsophila, African marigolds, mignonette, nasturtiums, ornamental grasses, phlox drummondii, portulaca, rhodanthe (everlasting), scabious, and zinnias.

Bulbs for present planting are: Achimene, agapanthus, tuberous begonia (in frame or greenhouse), caladium, dahlia, gloxinia, gladioli, nerine, sprekelia. In the vegetable garden sow seeds of beans (dwarf and tall French butter and lima), beet, carrot, parsley, peas, sweet corn, spinach, and white turnip. These may be sown in drills in the open ground.

The Vegetable Garden. Prepare seed-beds for Cape gooseberry, cabbage, capsicum, egg plant, celery, leek, and tomato. Make mounds of rich soil for the seeds of cucumber, water and rock melons, pumpkin, squash, and vegetable marrow. Cress, mustard, lettuce, onion, and radish seeds may also be sown now. Cress seeds should be sown a week earlier than mustard.

’ Give the growing vegetables a regular spraying with nicotine sulphate to eradicate leaf-eating pests such as caterpillars, pumpkin beetles, or snails. Cultivate soil round about tomatoes, and pinch out side laterals at main stem. Give them a sprinking of superphospate or bone-dust.

French beans should be sown about every three weeks in order to have a succession, and the climbing varieties should be trained on sheds or fences.

Parsley and mint can be grown in old casks or buckets that have holes well drilled in them for drainage. In this way the roots are prevented from straying in among other plants.