HOEING AND WATERING

Wairarapa Times-Age, 1 September 1938, Page 4

HOEING AND WATERING

SECRET OF GARDENING SUCCESS. The secret of success in maintaining the flower beds and borders in good condition throughout the summer and autumn is to keep the plants growing actively, to provide adequate support so as to prevent damage by wind and rain and to remove all dead flowers regularly in order to encourage the production of new ones. Plant growth is dependent largely on water supply, therefore all efforts in cultivation must be directed towards keeping the soil moist. There is where the hoe becomes of paramount importance, and it must be plied sedulously. The benefits of regular hoeing are manifold, but 1 most important of all is its action in conserving the moisture in the soil. Its action in this respect is as follows: The moisture underground rises to the surface '(and thence escapes into the atmosphere) by means of innumerable channels between the soil particles. Sun and wind drain off the moisture from the surface, to replace which more is sucked up from below, by capillary attraction, until in periods of drought the supply becomes exhausted. When the soil is cut with a hoe just beneath the surface the capillary tubes are severed and sealed, thus checking the upward flow of water, and the fine “tilth” formed serves as a mulch and assists further to prevent its escape. A Dutch hoe is the most satisfactory tool to use on well-cultivated ground owing to the fact that the operator works backwards, and so does not walk on the ground after it has been hoed.

Where, however, the surface is rough and bumpy a draw hoe, used with a chopping motion, may be found most suitable. In this case the operator works forward, and should obliterate his footmarks by turning frequently and loosening the soil where he has trodden. Where large areas have to be treated a hand cultivator is also useful. In addition to conserving soil moisture, hoeing is beneficial in admitting air to the soil, and weeds are destroyed. In periods of drought, hoeing must be supplemented by watering, but in this respect there must be no halfmeasures. No matter what the plant, the soil should be saturated thoroughly right down to the subsoil and beyond the full spread of their roots, or not at all. It is definitely harmful to plants to moisten the surface only. Roots are attracted to the surface, there to be scorched by the sun or shrivelled by wind. Unless it is possible to water thoroughly it is best to leave well alone. For watering a hose is indispensable, except in the smallest garden, and the small outlay required for its purchase is undoubtedly an economical investment. A close-fitting attachment for connection with the tap, and watertight junctions where more than one section of hose is used, are important essentials, and .will prevent wastage, and the hose should be fitted also with an adjustable nozzle. By means of this sprays of varying density can be used. For soaking the ground thoroughly it can be adjusted to give a rain-like spray, light enough to soak in without running off the surface. A mist-like spray is desirable for watering overhead bedding plants and herbaceous subjects in bloom so as to prevent damage to the flowers, whereas for spraying the top growth of trees and shrubs a strong, coarse jet is desirable. Overhead spraying is a great aid to

free growth, but must be practised only in conjunction with soil watering. If the roots of the plants are kept moist, spraying overhead on the evening of hot days will refresh the plants greatly and keep them vigorous. All newly-planted trees and shrubs need special attention in regard to watering as they have had a most trying time and in many cases look far from satisfactory. The best method of watering these is to draw the soil up in a ridge round each plant to form a basin. This should then be filled several times with water, to soak the ground right down to the subsoil. When the moisture has drained off sufficiently the ridge should be levelled and the surface then mulched with old manure, leafmould, or other suitable material. Lawns need plenty of water during the summer months to keep them verdant, and here again it is necessary to soak the ground thoroughly. For this purpose there is nothing better than a revolving sprinkler’fitted to the hose and the nozzle adjusted to give a rainlike mist. A third great aid in keeping plants adequately supplied with water is by mulching, that' is, covering the soil above the roots with a layer of material that will prevent moisture from escaping but at the same time allow air to enter. One of the best materials to use is old farmyard manure, but as this is not easily come by recourse must be had to other materials.

LEEKS CAN BE GROWN ON FLAT GROUND. Those who cannot spare the room to grow leeks in trenches need not despair, for good crops «an be grown on the flat. No special preparation is necessary. Holes may be dibbled 9in deep and the plants dropped into them. There is no need to fill the holes, as the plants soon take root, especially if a little water is poured in after planting. Make the rows 12in apart and the holes Bin away from each other. Good varieties for growing in this way are Emperor, a medium green leek which bears long white stems, and Walton Mammoth, an early variety which has a mild, agreeable flavour. Dried poultry manure is an excellent stimulant for leeks, and may be put along the rows at the rate of loz to the square yard. Those who cannot obtain this should use loz of sulphate of potash and joz of superphosphate per yard run, once a month. Threequarters of an ounce of nitrate of soda may be given a fortnight later to each yard of row. This may also be applied if poultry manure was used. Leeks like plenty of water, and benefit from weekly soaking, especially during dry weather. Perfect leaves arc. assured if the plants are syringed overhead in the evenings of hot days. Hoe the rows regularly, and if any flower steps appear nip them out immediately. From time to time as the plants develop, soil should be drawn up to them to encourage blanching of the stems.