Thoughts on camellias in the winter garden

Waimarino Bulletin, Volume 4, Issue 7, 15 July 1986, Page 5

Thoughts on camellias in the winter garden

How many enthusiastic gardeners braved the first of the winter snows to work in the garden? I preferred tolook at the work from the comfort of the fireside. I did venture out long enough to knock the snow from the Boronia bushes (Boronias dislike a covering of snow), and I made sure that my recently potted-in Camellia cuttings were protected from the harshest weather conditions in their little shade house. Camellias which appear quite exotic plants are surprisingly hardy, and most varieties, particularly the japonicas stand up quite well to our variable climate. The first delicate blooms of Debutante appearing in late winter are always a bonus, and I have had Camellias flowering from *then right up to Christmas. The early blossom may be spoiled by winter frost and heavy rain as will any other delicate bloom, but by pruning some of the growth from the centre of the bush to let in the light and air, flowering shoots will form and the blooms will be more protected from adverse weather. Camellias make ideal cut flowers lasting a long time in wnter. Cut them in the early morning and remove leaves from the lower part of the

stem before placing in a container with a good depth of water. A lovely table decoration can be made by floating Camellia heads in shallow dish of water. Some varieties of Camellia will grow quite happily in full sun, but most prefer a semi-shaded position in well-drained soil. The protection of overhanging trees is an advantage and some protection from strong winds advisable, although I must confess mine get their fair share of that. I am fortunate in being able to site most of my Camellias where they are shielded from the rays of the rising sun. Frost which may have accumulated on the plants overnight will have time to clear before the warmth of the sun's rays reaches them. This will prevent damage to the forming buds that the sun acting on the frost would cause. When planting new bushes choose a site where the soil is well drained. If it is inclined to remain wet and soggy in the winter, elevate the beds so that any excess water can freely drain away. Camellias like quite a lot of water but they don't like boggy conditions. They also need an acid soil condition, so avoid any ground which has previously been dressed with lime. Dig the hole deep enough

to take the whole of the rootball and twice as wide as the bush to be planted. The earth to be replaced will benefit from the addition of two or three handfuls of well-dampened peat moss which will help to provide feeding roots with moisture in dry weather. T,he addition of some well-rotted compost or a little well-dried cow manure crumbled into the mixture will provide the plant with all the nourishment necessary to put on good growth. Place the bush in the ceptre of the hole and fill in around it with the earth mixture pressing firmly down as the hole is filled. Water well in.

Take care only to cover the root-ball with earth to the point of union where the stem joins the the roots. Camellias don't like to be planted too deeply. Avoid too much fertiliser. A dressing of acid plant food around the roots in spring and autumn and the occasional foliar feed with one of

the liquid seaweed fertilisers is all the feeding that the plants will require. With so manyquite lovely varieties available I hesitate to name a few, but from my own collection of fifty or so plants I reeommend to you "Anticipation", a large deep rose peony form, a sturdy

grower and very free flowering. "Leonora Novick". the purest of double white, a perfectly lovely bloom. "Barbara Clark", a frilly double in clear pink, and perhaps "Gullis Nuccio", another Jury hybrid, vibrant heavy textured coral red with yellow stamens.