IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 4 October 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT > TO WEAR. > A rather different type toi the preceding! I referto my previous dress selection. The design shows what is possible with a bordered material of the right kind, used for tunio treatment. . These double tunics, or tunics with a flounce, are permitted by the slender silhouette. Yet not eyery figure is improved by the double treatment. Sometimes the single is erer so much better, as in the case

of a slidrt one. Th» bordered material is either deep in that respect, or not. For example I might hare employed another pattern, say floral

against a geometrical band, the sprays extending for some distance till lost in sprig-like ends. I submit the design as a good one for the home .dressmaker. The work of making is not serious and the result should be excellent.

Tha waistcoat will have increasing importance. It will go through summer, and then carry on in a heavier material, fite most firtportant 'tMag about the waistcoat is that it can be made of some highly coloured fabric contrasting with the costume itself, or it can be highly decorative in effect. Next to the fabric used is the style chosen, for there are many different kinds, each one just as pretty as tttf other. Thus there are single' "and ; "breast ejects, tllfl former having little points just like a man's waistcoat. Some of th<a £iyle& have .a frill on the "V" opening, from nothing at the point to an inch or so ■ against the coatee, the collar of which takes it nip fro-n that position in more generous form. Some again turn a collar of self or faced on to the shoulder, and this is exceedingly pretty. It is ,a good idea to hav& a bag of the selection. Thus '.'Etonised" coat and skirt of a plain material, waistcoat of brocade, feag ditto, silk collar, cuffs, and bow of same on bag. With respect to head-dress. One of the newest consists of a wide, encircling bandeau of dull silver-lace with gatherings of very narrow and rather brighter silver galon to follow part of the design. Set at .regular intervals on this shimmering background are stripes of little rases* fashioned of pale yellow crepe de chine and silver gauze, the leaves of silver. In the centre of the bandeau two tall wings aro affixed by means of an ornament, their colouring being first the delicate yellow of the roses, though eventually it deepens into orange. A cap of silver-meshed lace is curved exactly like a shell either side. The pretty suggestion is further carried out by the delicate shellpink shading of the velvet which forms a narrow bordering fold, and keeps the metallic lace from becoming entangled frith the hair. One of, the new chin straps is a feature in association.

It is helpful to note what others Bay, anyhow, at times, Thus speaking of flounces—Although skirts are certainly not wider, a certain amount of trimming is noticeable .above the knees. For instance a dress of a fancy cotton material would have two flounces of blue ; the blouse would be white with touches of blue embroidery. Then the scheme would be completed by a simple ooatee of blue silk. A coat that would look well with this would, have a rounded decol loiage. The sleeves would; be about four inches long, and below the waistband would be a rounded, flatplfeated basque. . The material ipsa: excellence is crepe, the ripple" lit: rt bomjw very pronounced. Geranium pink, grass and emerald green, and canary shades are extensively employed for the coats." And the basque—"Not Content with providing the tailored suits with one basque, as many as three are introduced. Again, on the upper portion of the skirt is arranged an overdress that suggests a basque. "Sometimes these basques spring from the seams underneath the arms, the coat terminating at the waist in front." The translation of a little letter (part) in the "Polite Language" reads: "The closed Watteau style of lace trimming, white, cream or ooffeo, down the front of the bodice, is as much seen as the open neck frill of lace or muslin; while an' orchid o>r.,, bunch of violets, rose or dahlia, close the front at waist. . . A bunch of black vo 1 vot on a gown of rose colour, generous as to sizo anc 1 alone, is effective. ... For evening gowns of sombre Into long sprays of I gaily tinted flowers are worn, while for young girls, garland a are draped frorq. the shoulder to end of tunic. .... I saw a model dress the colour of the crocus, silk with touches of velvet. Another of cream batiste with mauve border of embroidered shaded silk, open neck having:; a lace frill with the mauve on edge. . . The youthful disrplay cloche and dainty straw hats with garlands of flowers and ruches of mousseline with strawberries, chorriea and flowers on left «de. ... Everything Oriental is the rage, more especially in evening! toilettes."