IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 27 September 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

- A nioflt difficult "thing to describe dresses without pictures.* Still I'll try a few. One of the smartest of combinations is a semi-fitting coat of brocade with patternless skirt. Coat is a cutaway, long hip length; sides not too close over smart Directoire collar, re vers and vest are of plain 6ilk or satin to match skirt, i Or vestyinay be in Persian design. At end of vrlpers,"a .few inches over vest points are two belt-tabs of the silk, j .one to left, one to right, aud into j these the fronts are slightly gathered. Sleeve is full length, cuff of the silk. A becoming dress is in fashionable plain colour, front explainable thus: A narrow panel opening goes from neck to waist; a wider panel of the material waist "to foot. Sides of the former * section turn back at waist line to form triangle tabs, and, these are in light contrast. So with the vest revealed by the narrow panel, a girdle crossing this, and the points Showing below. A line of buttons 'runs' s on the waistcoat which is surmounted ,hy a collar. This turns ovcr and lies flat" on the shoulders. A vertical strip of the contrast on sleeve repeats buttons. The value of the one-piece dress is enhanced by revival of front closing- Picture, a straight pleated .skirt, plain with check blouse section earned to hip level. .. Collar and revers (lace inset) are faced with silk in keeping with the skirt; sasli of same, bow to side with short ends, and sleeves of same since those of blouse end. as "capa"

just below shoulder. A becoming dress has a shoulder to knee coat-like section, brocade; half-skirt below, black satin. The sleeves, brocade, are inset in deep arm-hole, and the fronts not meeting there is a white satin connecting panel right down, centred with buttons. Bands of the black satin border the brocade fronts and armholes; also form cuffs, seems a-bit "mag-pie-y," but it was striking j in the original. Bordered materials were never m greater, favour. Also flounces. . Nothing is easier to make up. Pongees and the law varieties, swiss, voile, soft foulardls and challis all offer opportunities to the weaver or printer. Take a dress with a tunic which, buttoning vertically to opposite waist, hangs straight that side, the other draping from under as though drawn away, tjuite one of the prettiest systems! Well the border, deep as from shoulder to two thirds down blouse section, will, for the outer part have a band, Egyptian design, and for the inner .flowers, in sprays to "nothing. The band part will lie on shoulder and follow sleeve; floral come down blouse. The tunic, of course, has the border reversed', and lower -skirt repeats. A Dresden patterned silk is ideal; likewise bordered foulard?. Plain satin in contrast makes a neat flat collar, and cuff of below-elbow sleeve, while buttons run on the closing,, four or five across blouse part, as many below, cord round waist line. Flouncings permit of a combination with plain material ' and eyelet embroidery; skirt section ' plain, waist to a third down, then two tiers, lower one deep, apron like panel on skirt coming on to latter, and above waist rising in two chevrons, which make a figure like a extended "M." From the points of these rise the pretty borders of sides, result beinga bib-like inset. The sleeve is to below elbow. 1 dwell n this picture, my season's favourite to date. Here you have that sash already mentioned and reiterated. What could be smarter ? I dislike the word "chic," but it won't translate. Some poet or other says "blithesome, sweet and debonair." Such is the model. The blouse section embodies some excellent features. The collar to. start witli is bordered and frilled, opening to reveal vestee, though it sounds extreme, buttons and) button holes against this, then vertical pocket simulations with buttons again. With the low shoulder, dainty frilled cuff, etc., you

couldn't wisii for better. The skirt gives the most up-to-date contour to start with, seam down front, seam down side, stepped tab with buttons, pleat. And the sash! 'lt swatches the skirt as part thereof, with side coming, round to gather in rosette "holder," ends skoft for crispngpS. Model is French, slightly varied; gray radium silk, green stripe, trimmings dark green charmeuse; sash plain or Bulgarian etfect; hat to complexion all. A dress to make one sex admire' and the other envious. Which is which is for you to decide.