IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 20 September 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

I The season is .hall-marked by aj number of features. Some, mention-1 j ed before, need passing repetition. Frills and sashes are two of the most important. Recall what I have already said of thelatter—how the Bulgarian sash is going fro form a shirt yoke, and coming rotund, gathered at side, knotted, ends long or short, therefore floating or crisp, The otherwise plain frock is given an immense filip by saioh a decorative touch, and more if flat collar and <juffs repeat the isash. The postilion coat, already illustrated, can hardly be bettered, In cases,, however, it will be thought too dressy. There is the other little coat with the hip extensions. 'The break between as wide as the half figure to that in a man's dress coat. Hip length of course, is ; back, and small swathed sash accompanies. All such ooatees have a bolero effect, and savour of a Balkan uniform.- If it were possible to show the coats of a line of officers —-Greek, Montenegrin, Servian a"nd Bulgarian —you would see what has influenced many prevailing fancies. Ihe ensemble is always a material and colour combination. For instance, picture a postilion in dark silk, check flat collar and cuffs, white waistcoat, shirt of the check, front side seam stepped, two pleats into this, downwards V '•-.'-. is the time for elegant collar facings of seasonable freshness—embroidered types, often with scalloped edges. The collar hall-marks much, and all effects are low. I think it is safe to say that a collar that isn't will seem peculiar ere the worKT'is two months older.

Fashions just now bring np domestie economy." You may spend some time oiver last year's dresses with profit. Those two things, drapings and the combination of materials afford a. unique chance. Again there is nothing so out of the way in new sleeves as to discount those of before to zero. In applying colours, remember that the art is to make the contrast harmonise. This takes some [ thought. Incidentally colours have an effect on temperament. There ! was method in the madness of old time ; conditions when men. marched to bat- I tie in red. However, ir.en are not so j mecurial as women, and therefore nnf J so .susceptible to colours. All warm I tints are more or less exhiliarating, ■ the strongest exciting All cold ones) bring a feeling of repose. She who is apt has the artist's instinct of the lifting value of a warm colour and the corrective worth of the reverse. While on the subject, I cannot recall a time when the house milliner had such an opportunity. Who would restore that dark age when its trimming was so much of a hat as to make the end of one that of the other? You may trim, and re-trim, and retrim again. Better, you can make your mounts practically detachable. Vary the trimming and your hat box becomes like the conjuror's—-you see nothing in it, and presto,, out comes enough to cover the stage. As stated, the postilion has several rivals. None of them are conspicuous. Coats and coatees with rounded sides are liked by all, The curyd gains distinction when it is pronounced. The model gives & E'ussiin blouse effect, the body slightly blo'ie es, the poplum as said. . Suppose we take a grey suiting, soft light weight, with a collar of light grey linen and

the reverse of black satin. Note that collar folds over from a vestee, .and that the prevalent neck frill is a

dressy finish. Also that the black satin is smooth to waist, pleated or gathered above. The three \ piece skirt is a seasonable expression with its caught in pleats' in front and the slight draping they manage to provide. Incidentally, the hat should complexion the dress, aigrette, if you like the reverse. I have harped on the coatee, because the advice is, "A ruling novelty through summer." The bolero type may or may not be gay. For example take a moire poplin in a dark sage green combined with a broadcloth skirt of the same. For the type with sides like small hip-shields, maltese with a plain skirt, stepped at knee, with the fashionable little pleats to this and side drapings. A fair number of authorities denounce colour combinations that are extreme. Of course, everything depends on the wearer, and with her the occasion. The art is to tone down the vivid by the way the quiet is used in conjunction,. The colour problem is effectively settled vtith white dresses the trimming of which is gaily printer fancy silk. Once one gets in touch with the season, it is only a question of keeping step. Grumbled a man of my family: "If you don't own your house the agent pesters you to buy. If you do, he worries you to sell." The professional writer welcomes La Mode in new attire, but when everything has been noted prays that she will retire and come back in different garb.