IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 19 September 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

The Paris hat! Before me an array of photos—the real thing! They are very beautiful, large and small, all shapes, somo with elevated mounts and s6me with flat. To attempt a description is like trying to paint the rainbow with chalk. First Sanson, creator of ;i modified mushroom shape, brim petal turned at edge. ,It is a daring hat, yet a triumph. Viewed from the front One side of the crown is plain, the other eovered with flat ribbon loops. Resting ©n the brim that side are a number oT a-ose stalks j encircling the crown to the other, but falling on the grim, ig a wealth of leaves. From out the mass rises a spray of such, and on top of this aigrette is an immense full blown rose, white like straw. Then HanBard—the designer of a low dome turning into a slightly guttered brim. Dividing and uniting both is a band of ribbon erf the shade which knots on the edge ono side an 3 -results in two ends, one flaring, the other falling on the shoulder. Jusb as though it had cropped: there, y. rose spray sweeps from cirown to brim the; other side, i leaves till tho ocige is reached, and then flower. A bat by Lucienne is modified mushroom, crown puffed, ribbon • biuid, bunch of rosebuds either side, frill of gossamer-like substance lying 011 brim, and this in, powerful contrast underneath. Then Madeline, who us a soft bowlershape with roll brim, former straw, latter satin-faeod, crown "hedged" .with jjbsßamer-Jike frill so. transparent 'as to reveal, while it softens, the contoiu'.V At the back of this hat is a tall up-standing wing. , , The fambus design a small hat of unique ment~ rotind crown is. low,, brim turned dowil ni ot sbaiply up at back, sides graduating - om on the other. Around the crown »» « cord, and from this are cords over jcrown like a trellis. In and between are leaves and roses, full and l ou( j. like, dangle ab intervals. jj 0W back has ends form a fan over brim. B.y * var j oUs designers-—a hat with sharp roll brim, one side shallow, the other deep, crown a mass of rose-buds, ornament in front, and 'aigrette plume with turn. A beehive shape, with a hedge frill above and frill filmy enough to allow the shape ' to show, and aigrette of same at. back in cascading form. A wide 4ow crown with flat brim swathed with ribbon, knotted at back with .horizontally 5 placed and or:rls, and

this again a minor * wreath, of tiny roses with cluster at side. TVvo others feature the hedge frill. It is up and down, arid in both cases drawn in near the centre with ribbon. The art is in the way the frill is arranged —the way the frill is frilled. All which may be more or less obscure. If too much so, the illustrations Of some will correct. These will be given as opportunity provides. ' I "The 'Fashionable Lady" v (in i French) is the name .of one of the j leading Paris fashion journals. Ull- : fortunately it is in the polite language, and if one is a heathen it takes i time to translate; I have managed a paragraph, and it reads as follows::" "Since spring dawned the designers have made innovations. Though small hats are still preferred, the large hat is the later note. Between extremes is the hat that does not require a large hat box, and yet must be protected for its? infinite delicacy. (Whatever tlio trimmings, thev must match those of the costume. Thus the lace on the hat will correspond with that of the vestee, and M vet ribbon which borders must harmonise with the dress. , This is an inflexible flaw, which applies to every detail; hat and costume are related. As example, a young matron is wearing a beautiful laoe gown; her bonnet or hat is of the same. Or a young iaaV in fH? embi'oid* ered silk gown liavill# ) 10I . f w n f flowers and l»/ c6 at f6o t . Her hat is 0 u) ie lace trimmed'with ribbon of the dress shade, bordered with flowers in keeping, while a tiny flounce of silk lace falls on the hair and around the face." And .so on, all illustrations being to emphasise a sirtgle point—the harmomiou ensemble. T observe that floral mounts strike a very original note. The dominating use made of them entails a good kind.

Here, let me say the French have no serious rival. Only once in latter day history has Paris failed. This was in the dark days of the FranooPruissian war. The turmoil gave London a great opportunity. Flowermaking firms gained heart, new ones opened, and for & while business was feverish. When peace came, lo!! Paris took the trade with hardly an effort. Why is the French flowermaker so apt? One reason is found .in her training. She is taught botany as a matter of course, learning to copy every part of a flower, leaf and blossom. A display of FFrench flowera can hold my interest by the hour —sprays that puzzle the imagination of the beholder as to how they were created. I spoke of this' blouse before. Incidentally I suspe ctthat the inspiration was> found" in the coatee of one of the Balkan uniforms. Premet evolved the type, which was thought good enough to exploit. Thus it

appeal's as the separate and with many dresses. Picture it as shown in grey blue voile, the under blouse of white messaline edged with !>iue velvet ribbon. Day or evening, it is a. pretty enough type, and us you see, the frill is one of the leading features. If I were choosing a blouse , for evening I think I should be satisfied. Touching the frill. Wonderful how it helps out even the plainest, giving an air of much smartness. Picture even a plain linen frock, closing across bust with reasonable "V," line down skirt, crystal buttons. Employ a frill on the blouse, stiff as the fin af a fish, and standing up at back of neck like a ruff. It is one of the prettiest of present hour fancies. On "blouses with vestee effects, the sides are softened' to this with a dainty frill. This "points from both -edges inwards, and, if the design, admits, there is the semi-ruff. The immense stock of frillings in all widths and qualities is proof ,of sound judgment. The Parisienne revels in these etceteras at all times:. Special shops for them, too! Which, mention reminds me of the trimming shop. Imagine one of six storeys, endless windows, stocked limited to "Chapeaux Garnis." You will see on the windows "rubans" (ribbons), "fleurs' (flowers), "dentelles" (laces) and so forth. One wonders how if is possible to make so much of a single department.