IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 5 September 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEkR. f This is what I mean by the graduI have taken every care to give the figure correctly. It is -then, a selection for coloured bordered foulard, which, say, is of a dark copper shade. The trimming is hemstitched mou<sseline and all over lace, and the skirt is distinguished for its tunic, which, as you will note, graduates from the seam low down in

front to higli tip at back. The slight draping from the tunic's extremity is useful—three tucks into tljis with slight natural folds festooning as shown. The sleeve is full length, with shoulder inset and eap below it, the cuff being long and simple. I revert to what I, said of millinery suiting the dress. All dress artists balance their costumes in this way, and it is an indication of the necessity. I have already given fairly full notice to materials. I shall now refer to pattern effects without considering the material at all. Needless to say bordered kinds, such as I have just pictured, are tlieir own decorations. Next in order we get stripes, which vary from the pronounced, to the vague, an3i from the fairly wide—not too much sq—to the hair line. The medium stripe hns infinite value for dress the design'of which can utilise it to full advantage. "Peaked" effects in styles, if i may so express myself, permit of the stripes being used in chevron form, actually aft n-' chevron is, or inverted. A peaked tunic effect is an illustration of the latter. Then in full or semi-length panels stripes may be employed horizontally and the rest being perpendicular the panel is framed. The stripe for collar facings has an everlasting value, and that applies also to cuffs. Floral designs are preferably small, and not too close. Some of those on exhibition are exquisite. The spot or dot, whichever you choose to call it, picks out a dress wonderfully. Tn xJraped varieties with front panels in the plain contrast, so far as they are revealed, the dot is an ideal selection. Checks are only stripes crossed, whether the fact is revealed or not. They lend themselves to facings and have high decorative value in tfcis relation. The same may he said of plaid effects. When all is said and done designs are limited to whatjias been said, as clearly enough they must feature one or another of these things. With respect to draped effects a good l "deal is being made -of the trim little tucks or gathers into , a seam line, with the free festoon leading Crom these. The idea appears on skirts.and blouses, and is responsible for something in" the way of a novelty in sleeves. Thus taking a just below elbow type, -n overlapping 6earn runs from tlv shoulder and

turns at the end, so that the sleeve there takes the shape of two scallops. Three buttons are employed over elbow, and into the seam the other side of the sleeve tucks thrice, the result being there are as many little festoons—a very pretty effect. The draping that catches up on the skirt to a buckle,. brooch or bow is a prominent illustration of this style, but although I have seen some walking costumes in such form 1 am inclined to believe that it should be limited to reception and evening gowns of ornate" character. Drapings, like everything else, can be overdone, and they are overdone when the acme is attempted in a street dress. The illustration is typical of one of the best modified effects in draping. You have as good as the full costume, as the rest of the skirt be-

ing quite plain you can extend it yourself. All you have to remember is that the seam turns at the foot for a rounded line on the hem. As a matter of fact this idea was introduced in winter, but near the end, and that means that it received scant notice. Designers, therefore, have carried it forward, varying the bodice 1 part for the new season. Th© tucks or folds are three oh this andl three on the skirt, the festoons being as slight as possible in the one case and not too pronounced in the other. I am sorry I did not repeat in the cuff but even so it is pretty enough, and perhaps had I done so 1 should have been painting the lily. A style like this is ideal in navy "blue chiffon taffeta, chemisette yoke of White cotton crepe, with Bulgarian embroidered banding in red and blue and frill of pleated net. Blouses for separate skirts are frequently of such type as might be used with the costume. The blouse, when the season comes, is ever green, but it has become rather ornate. of the blouses bring forward! a novel note, which is not so novel even so—the extension below the belt or girdle. This came some time Ibaok, but iJhere are many excellent things which cannot be impressed all at once, and hence the greater favour of the present moment., This extension' in some instances takes the form of a flat frill, and I see pictures, though [ so far no originals, of scalloped and ' diamond pointed borders, "the latter j having,to my mind, a ragged appeari ance. The average blouse is hall marked by its collar, 'and. such will continue. High collars are conspicuous by their absence, and with the folding collar we have veetes with, many pretty fancies to enhance their value. The two colour effect is so frequently in evidence as to make the other exceptional. Plain blouses gather from a yoke line that goes to the shoulder, and! the sleeve repeats!» Scarves are worn with very plain types, gathered as a four-in-hand, or ■ passed through the material for a holder. Blouse?, like hats, may be< taken week by week and placed in • line for a choice. I have given several selections as diverse as possible, . and now add to'them with a design which is different again. Of course this is a dressy blouse, but what could be prettier? You will have those shield pieces in. shade conformity with the skirt, which is another proof of how the separate blouse may also be of the costume.

The. edge will be picked out as you happen to determine, and your choice' will edge tho lower .sleeve. For the rest the selection is according to use, from a mere contrastive material—not too contrastive—for ordinary wear, up to lace for evening. As ,vou will 4 see the design suit any occasion, permitting of day and evening adaptation equally.