IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume xxv, Issue 10713, 29 August 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR. This is one of the smartest of smart new styles, ideal now, just aa much so in summer. We may suppose it in white serge with begonia red satin. The chemisette and edge trimming on the collar and cuffs is of white voile, closing at side. The lines are in every sense true to the period—l refer As «r-. -

to contour and volume. The increased width in skirts is not so noticeable till you resurrect one of the winter time and compare the two silhouettes. These long front panel effects give height, and sucl) is assisted by the unbroken naturo of the contour. Everything is in keeping with respect to shades and their combination—hat •and parasol. Needless to say the shoe comports with the skirt in all good dressing. I should like to say that the slit skirt has been roundly condemned in • all great centres. Nevertheless, there is a considerable difference between slitting the skirt --side or back—and employing a little vent. I can see no harm in the latter, Which on the other hand, has much to recommend it. The vent at side for two, three, 01; even four inches on a proper skirt—one that permits of it—is with an overlap, buttons and button holes. Complexion dressing—your own complexion—is an important note. A fashionable da mo has exploited the 'black and

white craze in a dinner gown, the skirt of which is a combination of white brocade and plain crepe de chine. The two materials join in such manner that the flowering portion finishes in a point at the waist, while plain crepe de chine borders one side of the train. The centre of each rose of brocade is silver, and a row of pearls outlines a winding seam in the side. Scarves of black tulie of unequal length cross one another and veil the train. A shorter one is tied in a, loose knot below the waist. The fashionable world has much latitude, and in addition to black and white is just now over daring in colours —I refer to dinner, reception, etc. Still, black and white rules, and incidentally black ornaments for the hair are much favoured, and look very effective with white gown a. This reminds me of jewellery. Some writers treat it as a thing apart, but I don't. Something of, the kind is necessary to oomplete, even if it is only a brooch. Jewellery designs march with the times, and elegance rules. There is a style of jewellery for all ages. The age that runs the greatest , risk of making a mistake is the juvenile age—sixteen to twenty—and even a shade .over. The best, judge of a young girl'e jewellery is her mother, though her father is often wise enough simply because lie has a man's dislike of ornament, A young girl's jewellery should not occupy a very large box, and each piece should be simplicity itself. A wristlet watch, if dainty, is not aniss. A brooch, if small and simple, is nice. When the time comes for an ear-ring it should be as tiny as possible. A young girl's jewellery should be uncostly, and the actual jewel should be limited to a mere pearl or two, or, if a diamond, the smallest. I don't believe in imitation jewellery, except in certain relations. I can see no harm in a string of small imitation pearls with an evening frock, and where it is possible, .something on the ribbon of the coiffure. But young people need education in this respect, and the best guide, esteemed <as such or not, is always a girl's mother . Queen Mary designs hats—her own.' Per adventure, her Majesty designs not a few worn by her daughter. Maude Anderson also designs hats, but she is a professional; one, however, whose work is mainly in the direction of tuition. The picture shows what may be done with a very little for the production of ® smart spring hat. The size is medium; the brim

rolls at the left side, and is deeper at the back than either side or front, and. the materials., are. white satin straw for the shape and black velvet for the brim, facing, with two ipleated frills of maline for the encircling of tho crown. These are divided by a garland of small flowers. Though there is not much in it, so far as work is concerned, there is as regards result. "The little coat" —I must quote it' —will become an indispensable part of the snart toilette. As there is practically no limit just now in iegard to colour, it can be adorned with touches of what the mode-makers have called "futurist shades." Why "futurist" I cannot say, but I expect the elusive character'of so much has caused those responsible to reflect that the future is more often elusive than not. I bring in this "little coat" by describing a particularly original gown j which is among the ooning creations. Tho skirt is of black satin souple, slit upon the left, where it is caught in soft folds and supplemented with a pretty little corsage of French chiffon, veiled with a cloud -of black chiffon, and adorned with little sets of pin tucks, Sand\vi<;lj<jd between these two filmy ai'a threaded ribbons in pale wild l ase pink and sunset blue, which are knotted here and there with rosebuds, or spring forget-me-nots, or both, slipped through the knots. The crowning feature of the toilette is the "little coat." This is brocaded black charmeuse, embossed with quaint old gold work, a design which carries one back to the days of our grandmothers. The coat is " supplemented with a wide Medici collar of gold lace and little bright revers of futurist silk in many colours. A fold of futurist silk holds a belt of filmy gold lace.