IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 27 August 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR. Dividing the year into four- equal seasons—it is not so! —I am limited to thirteen costumes a season. This means that 1 have to pick and choose. My first selection was decided by posture. It suggests the freedom of the skirt. 1 make a point of never selecting a mode that has not a continuous value. This is a style that starts now and will end only when summer ends. Byronic collars vie with square—those that come down at the side and angle against the rooflike shape of the bodice cross-over. This savours of the sailor, and so the scarf. Incidentally we shall have some beautiful things in ties and jabots, of which more anon. The scarf may be notted and then pass through the material, or find in this a sufficient holder. Observe the angle of the collar, and carry on to the dress. The design line is straight to the knee level and is assisted by small buttons in threes. The "step" is one of the most important notes in skirts. Side front or more to side pleats are continued to foot, such, whether two or three, aggregating the width. Assume a plain material and have the design-line in strong relief. The two shades will appear in the hat, and even in the parasol. Apropos the latter parasol handles will be extra long.

I have referred to woollens. Now 1 come to silks. Two weaves divide honours. One compasses crepe; the other satin cloths. Brocades are an important rival, but their greater cost makes them a class apart. Satin .messaline and crepe charmeoise will be strongly entrenched in favour. On the other hand Chinese crepe will make a great impression. Chinese. crepe is a fabric which the. smart world abroad has taken up with avidity. All mentioned will owe their vogue to their extreme pliancy. The most pronounced novelties of the season will be brocade crepe chaimreuse and brocade satin. Such, according to the Paris mandate, will be combined with plain crepe or plain satin. Some of the best designers of the northern hemisphere preferred oriental patterns in their brocades. A favourite motif was the small Chinese rose. It is very like a gardenia. Other designs had their origin in oriental tapestries. Silk is used with varying regard according to countries; perhaps I should say community. Like velvet it is ultra-dressy if used as the basis. In association it is quite another thing. Even a little silk will sometimes doubt the apparent value of a garment. There is nothing in the right season that-will ever disnlace it.

Foulard is a favourite with many because of its wearing qualities. It will again figure in simple unobstrusive designs. Pompadour and Jouy designs appeal'. The characteristics of the latter are tiny floral clusters outlined with black. We have both in foulards and radium, which as the season advances will occupy a chief place. Radium is similar inweave to China silk, but it is finer, and the lustre is better. The designs mentioned show on plain white or coloured grounds with vertical stripes or cross siripe effects; Silk ratine is in solid colours and in black and white effects. It is used for lined coats and trimmings. A loosely women kind, which is called ratine' voile, is used over contrasting colours. Silk tailored suits will be featured. For such we have corded types like ottoman bengaline. A new silk is called tourist cloth. It reprodMces covert and the mannish herringbone- and tweed mixtures. It appears in the less brilliant tones of blue, tan, prune and violet, with threads of another. A* few silks will bo shown with borders.

Spring modes' make a feature of .waistcoats. Sometimes they are so in effect. In the panel 1 show you one of the styles. It belongs ...to a costume, though blouses may be associated. The dark silk pieces simulate the end of a "tie" from the shoulderyoke collar. A neat idea* is the way. the waistcoat points are carried under and below the girdle. Designing is more or less of a line art. Every line should be studied. You will al-

ways find that my illustrations give the art-line in true position. Alongside I show a skirt. As you will see it belongs to a coat, but such is not

. . ,„,«,., „ . . •-" —— —■■ ■ nr. arWtrar"yT~ The sweep is right for the type, and permits of generous pleats. Observe that this is the modish volume, the extended foot in walking serving to indicate width. I must make much of cottons. Some marvellous cloths appear. Hough weaves are the rule, and such reveal the influence of the ratine mode. Eponge has met with so much success in wool as to appear in cotton. Cotton eponge will have a prominent place over and under weave, the unevenness in the yarn giving a crepe effect. Occasionally there are two colours, white in weft, pink or blue in warp. Cotton, eponge is in heavy and sheer qualities. The latter will frequently be embroidered I for a flouncing effect. Glancing 'ahead 1 venture to say that foremost ' among cotton novelties will be white crepes in beautiful effects and unlimited designs. When summer comes nearly all empire waists and many dresses will be so made. Some of these exquisite cottons are embroidered; others have white or coloured stripes hi ratine or looped weave; others | again have the ratine stripes both I ways in cross bar effect. The crepes ! are woven of fine yarn. One of the most beautiful is a heavy twill thread [that weights the cloth and advts to its clinging effect. The manufacturers declare that the crepe crinkle wil£ not disappear in the wash. Materials should not be given piecemeal. I am trying to cover all [the ground I can. Details may come later, and I can always amplify. [When you touch cottons you become summery. Continuing, there is linI en. Linen is a staple favourite that never seems to go out of style. Real linen and near linen are excellent fabrics for two piece suits, and the | fashionable tailored dresses that have become an established mod©. A new j weave of linen will be launched. It {consists of a loosely woven heavy and I fine yarn, and is so supple that it will not crush. Think of it—a linen that will not crush or wrinkle! The proneness to do this has been the only drawback to the practicability of linen, and we are told that it has been overcome! This new "ideal fabric is known as Corsican linen. Returning to cottons, voiles will be among the popular fabrics. They will be stylish, not only in stripes, but in solid colours, and in white and ecru. Beautiful voiles will be shown with embroidered, dots, figures and borders. Yoiles and crepes will be more in de» mand than ever owing to the supremacy of the slender silhouette, and the fashion for clinging effects. The blouse returns in full glory. This time it brings a wealth of nov- ' elty. A blouse now is hall-marked by. i its collar. The Byronic shape you know—the collar that falls in a bend. jVestee effects will be in much vari- ' ety, The type pictured shows what 1 can be done with a simple expression. Tho stripe, thin as you like has de-

corative worth. Little buttons on , each enhance the lines. It is a pret(ty idea to break the collar with the ,! contrast. We didi this with our win- '. ter coats, both large and small. 1 'do not remember ever having seen such pretty collars as in winter. I am able to say that spring will exploit the best and add many novelties. ; Blouses have the shoulder seam, both high and low. I always prefer the , latter. The falling shoulder i« one ! of the prettiest of effects, and should ' not be lightly" dispensed with. But ! I shall give a number of blouses as , the weeks progress, aiming for comprehensiveness, but not at the cost of beauty. i =====