DUNEDIN AND THE ROAD.

Tuapeka Times, Volume III, Issue 152, 5 January 1871, Page 6

DUNEDIN AND THE ROAD.

It is seldom I have the good luck -of paying a visit to Dunedin city — Otago's darling seat and New Zealand's rightful capital. Is it not the centre of education, and the nursery of art ? Such good lucL: came my way last week, and although it was of brief duration, still I took advantage of it. Not yet having a railway to Tuapeka, I availed myself of the service of a good old moke as far as Tokoinairiro. There is not much on the road to Toko, to call for comment. From Lawrence to Havelock there now exists one of the finest roads in Otago — the pitching and gravelling of it have just been completed; and although many people say the width of the pitching is too narrow, still the improvement is so vast that it would be unfair to pass it by without according a word of congratulation to the district, and a word of praise to the Government which has so often been held up to public scorn as a no-toorks Government. A ride or drive to Havelock can now be accomplished, in t summer p,r winter, with a degree of 'pleasure hitherto unknown. Havelock tqwnship, recently surveyed, shows many signs of advancement. Within a few months, several neat buildings, including a couple of stores, t\yq or three private residences, and a church, have been erected. Some of the miners on the flat haye been making goqd jyageg. The residents are agitating for the establishment of a school for the education of the rising generation, which is daily on

,the increase. No doubt the Education Bpard, with its usual readiness to ;extend the boundaries of Otago's excellent system of education, will .comply with the wishes, of the inhabitants. Crossing Havelock Flat, we come to Murray's Flat by the surveyed road; but fchjs rx>a.d only exists on the survey map, for not a penny has been expended upon it by the Government, although every acre of land on each side, extending back in some places for upwards of a mile, is under occupation, and has been improved by fencing and cultivation for some years past. This road, I repeat, passes through bsautifal land, and not a single penny has been laid out upon it to make it passable. It abounds with creeks, and the few rude culverts which do exist have been made by the settlers themselves, to enable them to carry their grain to market. But while our Government have so grossly neglected this very important part of the main road, they have expended a large sum of money in making about four miles of that portion of it extending from Manuka Creek to the Eound Hill, which, for want of a small bridge in one place and a few yards of embankment in another, cannot be taken advantage of. The money so laid out has been as good as thrown in the gutter for the last three years. Such miserable attempts a,t road making cannot be too strongly condemned. Arriving at Manuka Flat, the tailings from Coombes and party's claim on the hill attract the traveller's attention, and give him an idea of the immense quantity of stuff washed away by these enterprising miners. The road from this flat on to Milton' is all that could be desired, and if Mr. Gillies' road engine could not be worked to advantage there, I fear it will never do any good in Otago. Since my last visit to Tokoinairiro, the city of the plain has made great strides in advancement. The Bank of Otago has built a palatial mansion, the Mayor (Mr. Goodall) has made great additions to his establishment, Mr. Grant has built an imposing hotel, and numerous other places of business and many private residences have been erected, making Milton, without doubt, the largest and most substantial of any of the inland towns of the province. The road from Milton to Dunedin remains the same as it has been for years. Little or no improvement is to be seen. The iron horse, so long talked of, is not yet coursing the Taieri Plain. Mr. Macaudrew's vision of four years ago has not yet been realised, for he has not yet had, uor do I think he is likely to have, the honour of turning the first sod of the Southern Trunk Line. I arrived in Dunedin by the mid-day coach, and to be holiday time I never was more disappointed with anything than I was with the desolate streets of Dunedin. There did not appear to me to be one half the stir of two years ago. Fine buildings truly, fine shops, but no business, no money, and plenty grumbling. Dunedin is just coming to itself; it begins to learn that in proportion to the prosperity of the country will the city be prosperous ; in proportion to the increase of settlement in the country districts and the .development of the mining industry, so will the city revive from its present state of retrogression. The prosperity of a town can generally be guessed at by business men enlarging their pi'emises, and by craftsmen and mechanics being fully employed, and a steady progress going on. But what -is the case with Dunedin? Why you may walk along its streets from one end to the other and witness no sign whatever offrade of any description. It is a city of hotels and shopkeepers and Government officials. One new building, or perhaps two, in the suburbs, is all that can be seen to indicate Dunedin's progress, and the vision of Invercargill's grass-grown streets comes oppressively before the mind of the visitor. Dunedin, in a word, is overgrown, and I feel confident while it is ruled by the High street clique of snobs, it will continue its retrograde movement. I was glad, however, to find that the Dunedin people are alive to the necessity of bringing to a termination the reign of squattertloni, and returning a man as Superintendent who has consistently advocated and worked hard for the settlement of the country. From every quarter I heard that Mr. Reid's chances of success in Dunedin were certain. People are tired of Macandrew. Like every dog, he has had his day. His unfulfilled promises people don't find so much fault with, but they do blame him for making no attempt towards their fulfilment. It is a very remarkable thing that the very men who were his most zealous supporters are now his bitterest enemies, and those who were his most venomous and hateful enemies are now his most devoted friends. Mr. Driver and his clique, who, at the time of Macandrew's last election would have counted it an honor to have lit the fagots to consume the object of their hatred, are now equally incensed against Mr. Eeid, the opponent of Macandrew. How is this accounted for ? It is not because there is any change in them, for they are as earnest and sincere in their desire to retain the country in their hands as ever; but j the reason is to be found in the complete .change which has cqme oyer Macandrew, whose patriotic speeches at the last election, Driver and party soon found were nothing else than

clap-trap and electioneering cries, to ' be laid aside as a garment immediately after they had seryed their purpose. When in town, as might be imagined, I went to all the places of amusement, The first thing that attracted my attention in the evening was a crpwd of about 200 people at the steps of the Government Buildings listening to Jock Graham airing his eloquence. Jock had written a pamphlet, or book as he called it, on the present state of Europe, in which he points out the necessary course to be adopted to bring about a lasting peace. He told his audience that he purposed sending a copy enclosing a portrait of himself to Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain, whom he looked upon as the Queen of Sheba of the present day. He also intended sending one to Bismarck, Napoleon, and King William, with the authors compliments. Jock, who appeared in cheek trousers, black coat, and black belltopper, with an immense puggery tied round it in a careless manner, told his audience that he .had dressed up for the occasion to show ho had a respect for himself, and those gentlemen who might be pleased to listen to him. He then went into the genealogy of the House of Graham to show that he came of good stock. He traced his ancestry as far back as the notorious Graham whom Scott iintuortalised as the Diel o' Dundee. But I must adopt the plan of the reporters when they have not time to hear a man out, and conclude my resume of Jock's address by saying "Left speaking." Graham seems to court the smiles of the Dunedinites. It matters not how great an ass he makes of himself; so long as he can cause a laugh, he is satisfied. I had hardly left the Government Buildings when I was accosted by J. G. S. Grant, the " Delphic Oracle," who had a bundel of the latest copies of the Dunedin " Saturday Eeview." It is very sad to think that such a brilliant luminary should not be appreciated, and that he is obliged to be his own runner. I then directed my steps to the old Athengeuin, where Chang the giant was exhibiting himself. By way of advertisement, there was an immense drawing of a plate outside, about the size of the building. On entering the Athenseurn the visitor is at once confronted by this prodigy of nature. A fine-looking fellow, and a most affable and gentlemanly Chinaman withal. I felt much shorter than I thought I was, when, standing by his side, I only measured to his elbow. Mrs. Chang, his wife, is about the average height of her sex, and the proginy, the young giant, I don't think will be able to fill the shoes of his father. Having satisfied my curiosity in that direction, I then went to see the panorama illustrative of the works of Charles Dickens, painted by Mr. Massey, and described by Mr. Whitworth, a gentleman better known in Tuapeka as the " Literary Bohemian." The work, for a colonial production, is excellent — the character scenes are depicted with great accuracy. Mr. Whitworth's description of each picture as it passes before the audience is extremely good. He brings to his assistance irany well- ! timed anecdotes, which he relates with considerable ease. I have no doubt, [ after telling his story for a few weeks, he will be able to make it still more spicey and attractive, and will find this exhibition to be one pleasing to the public taste wherever Dickens works are known ; and if my hopes in this respect are realised, a higher complement could not be paid to both artist and delineator. Having witnessed the first part of the panorama, and being desirous of seeing all I could in. one night, I then went to the pautornine of King Alfred. This amusement is quite equal to anything of the kind T have seen in Dunedin. There are several very good local hits — the Yogel bubble forming the subject of most of them. The scenery by Mr. Willis is quite up to that gentleman's well-known artistic skill. The transformation scene had a most telling effect, and brought down the applause of a well filled house. Thinking I had done my duty to the great lions of the city, I posted to my hotel and to bed. On returning next evening to Tokomairiro, I attended Mr. Dyer's electioneering meeting in the Volunteer Hall. Mr. Dyer is a candidate for the Assembly. I heard part of his address, which was good enough, like many other platform performances ; but when that gentleman is placed side by side with Mr. W. A. Murray, I would imagine the good sense of the people of Tokomairiro would show itself in the election of the latter named gentleman. There is another candidate, viz., Mr. Cutten, but mercenary motives are too closely associated with that gentleman for him to receive more than a very poor show in the Bruce district. On the following morning mounted my nag, and home.