FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 6, Issue 142, 2 June 1883, Page 169

FASHION NOTES.

•Bir "Jenny.Ween,"

Short skirts are universal. Gold cord trims tight-fitting jackets. . Bernhardt" cloak is very popular. ; ': iPiaided material meet us everywhere. [[. ■■ Waterfall blacks are very fashionable. '.'. ■ Large discs of embroidery, outlined in gold are mew. ; Yellow tussore silk kerchiefs are worn round jfche throat. _; Sleeves, lightly bouffant at the top, are quite a ■'■ feature in the new dresses. Gold lace, the new eashrnei'e lace, and leather lace are all used in millinery. Yellow is the fashionable colour, and dandelions, marigolds, button daisies, chrysanthemums, _ Marguerites, and Mashal Neil roses the favourite . ifiowers. The Queen has been pleased to purchase the four, fans which obtained the Baroness Burdett jCoutts , prizes for designs distributed by the . Princess Beatrice to the Female School of Art. Colours are now superseding black, and if , a' black dress is selected, it is always combined with either one of the popular reds—strawberry, .raspberry, chandron, or flame, or else with man..•darin,and other yellow tints. .. ■ Plaitings of the material are worn on dresses, ibut there are many diversities; a wide triple plait is fashionable, and occasionally a crossway ..: jpuff is headed by a crossway plaiting ; and tunics and draperies are cut into all kinds of battlements, .•'■'■points, and rounded Vandykes. The ribbons of the season are either tartan or .; brocade, the latter mostly of what is called the ; Egyptian pattern—an Oriental design in many colourings. But this description of ribbon half an inch wide, is more used than any other, more \ especially in the shape of rosettes. It is thus . applied to caps and bonnets, fichus, and all kinds ipfknickknacks. Dark-coloured straw bonnets will be the general wear for the present, trimmed either with velvet to match, or with a high cluster of flowers _ +h o left side. There may be one, two, or even snree nairs of narrow velvet, or Ottoman ribbon Strings, or there may be a single wide pair. ~- Straw bonnets, made to represent striped grasses, arid basket bonnets, imitating twigs, are also iriuch worn. '"■ .-.' : . A great many of the "tabbed" bodices are braided, and have small round buttons in the . ,style of a Highland soldier's jacket. The " tabs " ■ are-put on separately, the bodice being pointed ■'. and bound with braid. Other bodices are braided '■'> in uncommon and original way, combin- . UHVie Greek and Indian styles. The jacket, '.iJcePvand'waisteoat are thus ornamented. ■4 Short jackets are made single-breasted with the military stand collar, and sometimes their edges ,are cut into slender tabs, which are braided. The - more! dressy cloth mantles are visites of coloured . -clotE made with high shoulder-pieces. They are , ornamented with braids of cashmere colouring, arV ranged in simple but effective designs as a above the chenille fringe, which matches the cloth in colour. ~-s[ There is scaraely any hue of bead that can be / ■desired that is not now used for trimming, but ~ tihrimp is one of the newest. Pearls are coloured to* all the hew tints, and used as an applique .galon. The beaded fronts of bodices and skirts, : the beaded trimmings and the beads mixed with ; . embroidery, have never till now attained so great \' a perfection. Some of the foundations of these are black or white ribbon net, and in one piece. •'.-.'•..'-The Infanta Donna Paz, married recently at [Madrid to the Prince of Bavaria, wore a magni- .. rficient robe of white brocaded velvet, lavishly ~/trimmed with d'Alencon lace. This dress and ■i;he. bridal veil were both from the hand of the ■■ .-iambus Madrid modiste presentation, who , is the Worth of the Spanish capital. In her hair the bride wore orange blossoms and the diadem of ibrilliants which the Prince, her husband, gave ■ :her on the day of their betrothal. ■'•'' '; Black dresses, elaborately beaded and enivbrpidered, are very stylish for dinner and home V "rreceptiions, many little transformations being ;.';■'':imparted to them by moveable sleeves, chemi- . vVsettes, plattreus, etc., and, simplest of all,.by rosettes and clusters of loops representing five • -and six different hues —pink, maize, sky blue, j tilleul, and royal blue, for instance. \ For. the front of a skirt, or even a large panel, 'nothing can exceed the fine sweep of feathers • ' braided in chenille and springing in pairs at vr-intervals from a parent stem. Sometimes flashes . v-'pf. colour are introduced on a black dress by .(C flowers, as in the pink and lilac poppies, trailed .? along thejside of a black Spanish lace tunic. ' ■!.<•>'<■ ; A pretty walking dress is of brown cashmere, ■;.;'t and-plaid in brown, red, and yellow. The skirt , "Viiii of cashmere, arranged in a large bouillomie and -: ; a deep flounce vandyked a the edge over a ■;.; ./pleated balayeuse. The plaid forms a short t'fpleated tablier and ,a full puffed drapery behind, >;-'-,;. the/ corsage being of brown cloth with round ;%i>basques•.trimmed in the centre with a drapery of plush over the hips, clasped in front with . From this clasp to the neck 'pointed plaetron of plaid fastening down the buttons; .The officer's collar is of are vandyked over plaid