THE WHEEL.

Temuka Leader, Issue 2332, 19 March 1892, Page 3

THE WHEEL.

A Bicycle Trip to the Otago Lakes : via Central Otago, : February, 1892., I By C. 3. Goldstone and Jas. Gillespie. : [Written by Cushion-tyre.] : (Continued.) ' The bridge, we were told, was three-qna:rters-of-a-mile long, and had stood some heavy floods. The road still continued bad for upwards of four miles, being unformed, and unmetalled, and it was not till we got • to Awawaka, about six miles from Oamaru, that the roads resembled those of our own district. From there into Oamaru the road was very good, like a cinder track, and being straight and down till, we soon reached the" White Stone City," and put up for the night at The Queen's Hotel, in charge of amiable Host Johnston. Whilst at Oamaru we were fortunate to meet many of the North Otago cyclists, who treated us well, and gave us very valuable information about the roads in the vicinity. Whilst at Oamaru we were fortunate enough to fall in with Mr Burn, ex-captain of the Dunedin Club. Himself an ardent disciple of the wheel, he was able to afford us valuable information about the roads, and the places most suitable to tovirists. To him we must accord our sincere thanks for the information so freely given. He gave us a list, which proved valuable to ns, of the various hotels frequented by cyclists when on a tour, and it is needless to say that we were well treated at those places. We did not leave Oamaru till Wednesday afternoon at 1.15, intending to reach Palmer ston, 40 miles distant, for tea. Some magnanimous lady, wlio had evidently an eye to our comfort, sent to our hotel before we left two large straw hats, which the enclosed note said were to keep us from getting sunburnt. To tbe anonymous gender we tender our sincere thanks. But I am digressing from my subject. The first hill going out of Oamaru is a "teaser," being long and steep. We were rather dismayed at the sight of it, but after hard work we reached the'top and resolved to have our revenge on.the return journey. The roads continued very good and undulating till Totara Homestead was reached, about six miles from Oamaru. About here they were dusty, though hard, and here we saw many splendid crops of wheat and potatoes, also numerous quarries and facings of the beautiful white stone that adorns Oamaru buildings generally. The Kakanui river, a small and tranquil stream it seemed, was crossed by the road bridge, which seemed but little used. On either side of river, about nine miles south of Oamaru, are the townships of Kakanui and Maheno.

At the former place did I first see the light of day, and I took the opportunity to visit my birthplace, all strangely unchanged. Maheno on the other side of the river, and the centre of a thriving agricultural district, can boast of a hotel, several shops and a nice public school. The next place we went through was the old-time little township of Otepopo, now quietly slumbering on the elevated ground. The people down these parts as far as Hampden seem disciples of " Adam's Ale," as the hotels are closed to the thirsty travellers. The road for about three miles from Otepopo is not very good, but on descending the hill into Herbert it becomes better,•» and as we cross the road bridge, and pass the old wayside mill, it improves, and we have very good roads, with farmhouses cosily nestling among the trees on I either side into the next township Hampden. Hampden is about the size of Maheno, and does not seem very active, I though it possesses a miserable little bank, [and public houses closed and boarded up till public opinion changes. At Hampden there is a beautiful expanse of water, forming a lovely bay, at the southern end of which is situated the fishing village and fashionable watering and bathing place of Moeraki, prettily situated under 1 the hill. We did not go across to Moeraki, but should imagine it to be a picturesque spot. Here we began to see numerous rabbits, which at first gave us a surprise, but as we journeyed on we became used to them. Hampden is the last township you pass until Palmerston is reached, distant 12 miles we were told. As we went along the country became more abrupt and rugged, and at 4.45 p.m. we entered the gorge of the much-dreaded Horse Range. We had heard a great deal about the steepness of the range, and we fully prepared for a rough time. The road does not go up direct, but winds round many spurs and corners, always keeping the cliffs towering up above you on the right, and the gully covered with dense fern on the left. The scenery here is wild and grand. Here are to be seen numerous caves; massive rocks, lain, strewn and scattered beside the narrow way, immense towering cliffs, 100 or more feet in height, serrated and weather worn by the fury of the southwesterly gales. This place is uninhabited, save by swarms of rabbits which, disturbed at their evening repast, scampered across the track into the dense scrub. After a half-hour's hard shoving we reached the top. and had a grand view of the surrounding country. Palmerston appearing to the south, the sea calm and still on the east, and massive mountains on the west. The descent must be over two miles, and is much steeper and rougher than the ascent, as it had been scoured out by the rains, and was soft and bumpy. We had to apply the breaks very hard, and, indeed, we many times were on the verge of going over by the rear wheel skidding. So hard had we to apply the breaks that when we reached the bottom the rubber was so hot that it was unpleasant to bear your hand on it. After half-an-hour's riding on the best roads in Otago, wo reached Palmerston about 6 p.m., and after a good refresher we had tea at the bicyclist's retreat, The North Western. Having received some information re the roads to Naseby we were fully aware that on the morrow we had a good journey to perform. The road to Naseby, a distance of 56 miles, is the roughest we were ever on, being up and down mountains, not hills. The ascent is 2000 feet in the 56 miles. As we intended to reach Naseby that night, Thursday, we were up early, and, having had a good breakfast, were in the saddles at 7.45, leaving Palmerston in stillness at the foot of Pukitapu, which I think is the name of the mountain on the east. From Palmerston wc had a beautiful run out through the Shag Valley to Dunback, the terminus of a branch railway about 10 miles out. This place is where all the wool from the up-country stations is carted to in waggons, many of which we met on the way. Now from Dunback the road gradually ascends and gets softer and dustier until Waihemo is reached, about 18 miles from Palmerston. This is evidently the resort of carriers, so we stayed here about half-an-hour for refreshments in the shape of delicious fruitapples, plums, and pears. Our next stage was to the Pigroot, another 12 miles on. This is undoubtedly the most barren, bleak, and rugged place met on the way. The road winds round the great hills—the Brothers and Pigroot —and after a sharp descent we came in°sight of a hotel, The Pigroot, kept by Host McGregor. The Pigroot, we were told, received its name on account of the number of pigs found there in the early days of the diggings. But now none are seen, as they have died out by hunting, and by taking poison intended for the numerous bunnies. However, if Pigroot is not a very prepossessing place we must say that we were treated loyally by Mrs McGregor, who set down a good dinner to us, which we did full justice to, for, bear in mind, it was 2 p.m., and we had been on the road from 7.45 a.m. An hour was spent very well with the family and an original character of a carrier called '-Teddy." We had evidently chosen the worst time of the year for travelling, as the roads were cut up and covered by loose sand. It was no unusual thing to be suddenly thrown out of the saddle by striking an unseen stone among the sand. The weather now appeared threatening, and we set off for Kyeburn, distant 12 miles, which was reached at 4.30 p.m. After leaving Pigroot, and ascending the hill, the road improves, and the descent is rapid for many miles, though the road still was loose. Bicycles seem a great novelty in those up-country places, for as we passed a rabbiter he gazed at us in awe, and could hardly realise what he saw. His dogs evidently took us for intruders, for they—twenty m number —chased us, and barked furiously. They seem of a mongrel breed. Kyeburn, a small mining place boasting of a hotel and store combined and a school, was reached at 4.80, and after enquiring for the way we set off again, still up hill, over very fair clayey roads to Naseby. Naseby being situated among the hills does not become visible until you are right upon it, and when it does become visible it doesnot appear picturesque, The hillsides are all sluiced away, and the country prssents a barren appearance. Numerous waterraces and fcailraces are crossed and recrossed, and even in the centre of the town they are running. We reached Naseby at and after a very sharp descent into the place we wended our way to the Royal Hotel, the coach starting place. Here we had a good bath, and, after attending £o the wants of the inner man, had a look round the town. It claim* to be the busiest' and largest town on the goldfields, and has a reputation of being exceedingly cold in winter, so cold as _ to allow curling and skating. One thing which struck us was that all the buildings, with one noticeable exception, were built of one storey only. We must say that at the majority of places we were well treated, and at Nasoby especially, as I mot in with old school chums. We intended to reach Blacks, or ' Opliir, 4(5 miles away, the next day, so we loft Naseby at 7.150 for Hill's Creek, , eighteen miles away. The country is very

even about there, and several farms were passed. The road—a coach one—was m very good order out as far as Wedderbura. Now one thing' we noticed particularly, and that was the number of "burns,' as Iderburn, Sowburn, Pigburn, Kyeburn, Hogburn, Wetterburn, Wedderburn, &c, &c. On the way to Hill's Creek we met a noveltv in the shape of a bullock dray, and bullocks taking coal down country. The driver informed us that the teams were dying out, and not paying, as the country was fenced in and feed was scarce. At noon we reached Hill's Creek, a small township containing two or three hotels, a school, and a private house. Hill a Creek has the reputation of being the highest inhabited surveyed township in Otago, if not in New Zealand. As may be expected, the road descends rapidly towards fct. Bathans, and for about five miles you do not need to pedal at all. Here a small river was crossed, and a rapid and circular ascent is met with until St. Bathans comes in sight. There is a long and very steep hill coming into the town, and as the coach for Naseby had just left there were crowds at the post office, who seemed mystified on seeing two fellows on wheels make their appearance. It was now nearly three o'clock, and we had had no dinner, so that was our first move. Having a letter of introduction to the leading merchant in the place, Mr McConnochie, a shrewd Scotchman, we delivered it, that ceremony over, we had had a "snack "at the Vulcan Hotel—and that a good one. We then placed ourselves at Mr McConnochie's disposal, who handed us over to Mr Ewings, the owner of the great mining claim—the Kildare Hill. In company with the manager we descended to the bottom of the working, and had the elevator process i described to us. Here we tried our hands • at prospecting, and were very successful, J getting about G grains to the 2 shovelfuls. 1 Very surprising indeed is the weight of the gold, as a small fruit jar full was as much as we could with comfort lift. It was of very fine dusty appearance and valued at £2OOO. After half-an-hour's pleasant chat re gold and goldfields we left at 5 p.m. for Blacks, some 20 miles further south. The I road to Blacks is down hill, though dusty I and heavy, and it was getting dark before | we came in sight of it, situated under the i hills amidst a clump of trees. On the way I to Blacks we passed several farms where the crops were being cut and some even stacked. At one farm-house we were stopped to let the wondering folk see the novel machines. Here we were treated to a refresher of " Glenlivet " and pure water. One of the farmers, whilst eagerly scanning the machines, said they were of a different , kind to the ones he saw, as they had the little wheel in front. The following day another remark worthy of notice was made by a lady whilst giving us a drink of milk. She said she saw two cyclists going down the other day—meaning Messrs Melville and Richardson, of Dunedin —but they had only one wheel I The rear one, I suppose, being hidden in the beautiful sand. Our rendezvous for the night was she Shamrock Hotel, at Blacks, and very comfortable we found it. Here we took the opportunity of looking up an old South Canterbury resident, and an enthusiastic supporter of athletic matters, in the person of Mr Flint, of the Bank of New South Wales. Next day gave promise of being a scorcher, and so it proved. We intended reaching Cromwell that evening (Saturday), and by this time were beginning to feel rather seedy. However, at 9 a.m. we were in the saddle and bound for Clyde, 20 miles off, for dinner. We had heard unfavorable reports of the roads, and were quite prepared for what was in store. The road is not hilly, but is very soft and awfully cut up by waggon and coach traffic. The country now passed over was very poor, indeed a Sahara in embryo. Not a blade of grass to be seen, fresh water very scarce, and muddy water plentiful, The heat that day to us was unbearable, and we lay down once and lolled in a wayside creek. However, we journeyed on under anything but favorable circumstances, and at lp.m. came in sight of Clyde, in the heart of the oncefamed Dunstan district, situated on the left bank of the river Clutha, which here rolls down a precipitous and rugged defile, There is a stretch of about a mile of down hill road into Clyde, and so heavy was the going that we actually found it not only hard work, but next to impossible to ride the machines down hill. (2o be continued.')