WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIV, Issue 89, 5 October 1911, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD.

(Conducted T>y "nueen"). FASHION AT A STANDSTILL IN ' LONDON. POPE AND CARDINAL AT LOGCER11KADS OYER PRESENT STYLUS. London, August 11. All that is most tempting and necessary for those fortunate individuals who spend tin 1 early autumn on the moors is being displayed in the shops that can afford to ignore sales just now, but its appeal, owing to the roasting weather, is much more limited than is usually the ease. No one has the least ambition to don picturesque tweeds, smart moor stockings and boots, jaunty tweed bats with pheasants' wings adorning them, golf jackets (cosy usually and only intolerably stuffy-looking now), serviceable waterproof materials, and heavy gloves, with the thermometer at the highest London has ever known, and the golden sun pouring down over moors and town alike, as if it were the proper thing to do in summer. Fashion is at an absolute standstill, and its requires no sage to sec why. Halfway through August, in ordinary | seasons, milliners have confidently displayed the newest felt models, furriers set out their wares, and general drapers considered the season with commercial eyes; but to do such a thing now would be only to ensure an empty shop. Bathing dresses —and in these there is nothing very new—print gowns, and soft, smart foulards share honors with large, shady hats or tiny Dutch bonnet straws in shop windows. The jabot, so wildly popular on blouses or attached to a costume for the last six months, we are told, is to disappear. Nevertheless, though it vanishes as a jabot its influence will remain in the graduated frill, which, wide at the top and narrowing towards the waist, adorns so many of this season's blouses. This new frill is usually of chiffon, and in a delicate or bright coloring gives a pieplant touch to a white blouse.

Late season hats are marked out spe- I eially by ribbon trimming, the ribbon | being disposed in huge bunches of loops j of considerable width and in many yards. These clustered bows and draperies are ] composed of velvet ribbon in pastel or dark colorings, brocaded silk and striped silks, and not infrequently the ribbon,, whether striped, brocaded or plain, shows a narrow contrasting picot edge, while a ribbon of shepherd's tartan is bordered with green. The bows of ribbon are in many cases enormous, and make the hat quite unsteady, especially when the shape itself is, as it so often is, tall and high and brimless. One of the recent innovations in millinery is the witch hat, which is seen in numerous variations and modifications. The original shape is identical with the traditional large hat. with a wide brim and very high steeple, crown. Even the trimming follows the lines of that seen in the story books. A band of ribbon arranged in careless loops at one side, and perhaps a spray of wild flowers, is the popular adornment.

Little blouses of embroidered lawn or any light fabric arc, like tlic new silk coats, reviving the old style of having the basque outside the skirt in-lead of under it. a girdle of silk cord eonlining the blouse a little above the waM-line.

and -o giving the desired short-waisled effect. These blouses, which are usually cut in the magyar fashion, as are. indeed, most blouses and one-niece gowns still, are exceedingly simple to make, and anyone who is clever with the needle can embroider llie front, sleeves and round the yoke. It is better to do this after the blouse has been cut out, so that the. pattern may be placed just where the embroidery is wan led. CLERICAL DISAPPROVAL.

Feminine fashions in Naples have rais-/ ed not a little vexation in the hearts of' Ihe good priests lately, and Monday's news -aid that Cardinal Prison, the Arehlii.shop of Naples, has had recently to forbid the priests in his diocese condemning in their sermons some of the latest fashions of the ladies. The clergy thus admonished do not approve of the fashions, however, and have decided to appeal to the I'ope! They assert that the I'ope himself has already exhorted all the clergy lo denounce the immorality of certain of the recent summery styles of costume, (in Tuesday a more decided slate nf things became known, and a special correspondent in Rome telegraphed that the clergy have received inslructions from the i'ope to start an energetic crusade against the feminine decollete chesses, which is considered scandalous and corrupting. The Pope complains that some of these outrageous garments are worn by women in church during mass, and that they distract the faithful from their prayers. The women are ordered not to follow the costly caprices of an indecent fashion, which often leads to neglect of families and household affairs. The Pope's instructions, we hear, are being carefully followed, especially in the large towns, where the clergy have started a vigorous crusade, even to the public reproving of those women among the congregation who fail lo obey the Pope's orders.

TO KKUOVE STAIN'S. It is surprising how few people have mastered the science of treating stains, those inconveniences that will appear whether one leads an outdoor or indoor cxi-tence. Stains may he divided into three classes—animal ( o il or wax), vegetable (wine or fruit), mineral (ink or ironmonld). Stains should he removed :;s .(mil ;i. possible, as, if is well to know, soapy water and boiling both tend to lix them in. ANo. if ironmonld is left in, it spreads when wet oil to other garments, first consider two things, the kind of stain and the kind of malcrial, and treat accordingly, trying the least harmful methods lir-i, as Ihe stronger

"iii- 1. ii.l I', weaken die lilircs of the material. When chemicals arc used, always rin-e the ailirles from which the slain has lieen removed to prevent injurious cHVet> to the faliric. When an acid ha- 1..-. it employed lie -ure and rinse at, once ill a solution of carbonate of soda, to neutralise (he acid. Iromnoiild can lie taken out, in a. few seconds. Stretch the part stained over a basin, and pour boiling' water Apply a lit tie -alt- of IntiMii, rtthl.iiifr it .-lightly with a bone spoon (or piece of smooth white woodi. 1...1:;- ~a fn-h water, and the mark will ili-appee.'. Then rciiieniiier Ihe important par! !>n often neeleetedl: -piceze out., and tit once dip into a little carbonale of .-oda .-olution (one iea-poonful of ili--ohed soda to a half-pint of warm water), and wash and lini-h in the u-iia! wa>. Ink stains, if newly made, j t:!» with conn -alt. and

-ip.ieeze lemon-juice over. Soak, and rub well, lie n wa-h and boil . The acid dis--olve- t Im iron in | hi' ink. and the tannin, or colorine matter (pale blue|, easily wa-he- and boils out. Another, and equally - iii-i-i fill, method, if more convenient, i- i.n -oak the wet ink stain for half an hour in sour milk, which has been boiled, eooied, and had the fatty skin taken oil', or put a spot of red ink on to the black, and- then simply wash it out. Ae.iiu it is th,. acid in the red ink that dissolves the mineral portion of the slain . If the stain is an old one n-i' sab- of lemon, as for ironmould. 'Tea and Coffee Stains.—These can be

eradicated quite easily if attended to at once. Pour boiling 'water through the stained portion, put borax on, and pour on boiling water, and bleach in the sunshine, if possible, or on the grass. If the tea has milk in it it is much more difficult to take out (owing to the grease nature), and often stronger methods are essential. If so, measure one teaspoonful of liquid chloride of lime to half a pint of cold water, and put the stain in it for about 20 minutes. Rinse in plenty of cold water, as this acts as an antidote to the stronger alkali (chloride of lime), and wash and boil.

Fruit or Wine. —iPour on boiling water. Cover with common salt, and pour on boiling water, and repeat the process. If the stain has become very fixed, use salts of lemon and boiling water, and rinse in carbonate of soda.

Paint Stains.—Rub well with turpentine, and then with benzine or petrol, to remove the grease mark which is sometimes left.

Urease Marks (such as butter). —Remove with petrol, or if none is available and the dress is grey or drab color, make a paste of Fuller's earth and water, spread fln to the stain, allow to dry, then brush off. In emergency, and when the stain is on a delicate color, make a pad of tissue paper, warm it, and rub off the mark. FOIt TRAVELLERS.

No one should journey .beyond the reach of a dry cleaner's without a lump of French chalk, which, scraped freshly on to grease spots and left on for some hours, removes marks very quickly. Equally effective is powdered magnesia, put on as a paste made with water just sufficient to cover the spot. It is also invaluable for cleaning lace collars and fronts without removing them from the dress.

A MUCH-TITLED BABY. A baby arrived in London last month I heir to two earldoms, a viscounty, a barony, a baronetcy, and an enormous | fortune. This is the infant son of < Viscount and Viscountess Maidstone, who was born at the house of his American grandparents, in Grosvenor Square. Viscount Maidstone, who is the eldest son of the Earl of Winchilsea and Nottingham, was married in June of last year to Miss Margaretta Drexel, the daughter of the American banker, who was able 1.0 retire from business, worth many mil- ' lions, at the early age of twenty-seven. Of these millions, it is generally supposed that Viscountess Maidstone's share will be £0,000,000. The baby earl will also succeed in time to the Earldom of Winchilsea and Nottingham, one of which titles, it is interesting to note, was originally created in favor of a lady, Mistress Elizabeth Ileneage, who was made Viscountess Maidstone in 1623.