AUTUMN AND WINTER.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LII, Issue 37, 9 March 1909, Page 3

AUTUMN AND WINTER.

WE FAbaiOXS. / AMBURY BROTHERS. Messrs. Ambury Brothers, emboldened by the success which has attended their forward policy year by year, have bought for the 1U0I) autumn and winter seasons more largely than ever, so that even with their enlarged and remodelled premises space is at a premium in arranging new goods, and hundreds of blouses, costumes, skirts, and children's wear lliu.it repose lor a time in closely packed array. The goods shown are of bewildering beauty, especially ill the millinery showing. Hats are larger than ever, but tncre's a surprising lightness in these huge creations ol the milliner's art, as varied ill shape and style as they are in colouring. The combinations 01 colours which are the most effective are those which would have tailed forth anything but praise a few years ago. Green and ulue are made to "do,'' and the new mole, cocoa, paeoa blue and peacock blue, gulden brown, and old rose make some charming colourings. Some elegant French models in bonnets for middle-aged ladies are shown, the absolutely new mole and green combination being mostly in vogue whilst mole and paeon, new brown and new gold, and nark peacock blue arc also worked into the harmonious scheme. Oae side of the show-room is devoted to black hats and toques, the " Merry Widow " being seen in various styles. Large wings and t[uills, long feathers, and large ilowers are features of the trimmings on ottoman and other shapes, large and rather Hatter than of late. Next comes a full range of " ready-to-wears" in straw, felt, and velvet. And the rest of the showroom is full of colours and blending of colours. Olive green and light brown shading up to gold; a favorite green with silver tinsel; golden brown and tan; peacock blue a;id tan; paeon and tan; silk hat of brown, witli exquisitely shaded large brown poppy; bronze and navy, in feathers; cerise and black; mole, wine, and blue; shaded wedgewoods; jjistache, cocoa, and green; navy and green, with bright parrot wings; grey velvet hat, heliotrope flower, white wings and tulle; red rose shading down to dark grape on champagne ottoman shape; paeon, with mole trimmings and jays' feathers; black, white, and green; llesn pink and mole; apple-green and black; white satin shape, prunella ribbons and flowers; white shape, mole wings, violets, and paler ribbons; and many others, all gracefully and delicately designed into dainty headwear of the latest approved modes, in such dissimilarity of design as to set one wondering "how it's done." Further description of them would mystify not only the jeader, but also the writer. The motor-car has created a demand of its own, and motoring coats and costumes and skirts for ladies are shown, furtrimmed, in greens, greys and blues. Close by are dressing-jackets and dress-ing-gowns. And ladies' costumes pre shown in great variety on stands and around the railings, the silk braid trimmings being quite a feature. Silk-lined silk mantles are rich in their finely plaited braid trimmings and new effects. Tweed costumes, with the fashionable cut-away coat, in moles and browns, with military facings are well represented., SUk nnder-skiffts, in every colour imaginable, in plain and shot, for street and evening wear, will attract a lot of attention. Black and navy serges are the principal materials in the cos- £ tume skirts, and there is a fine range i suitable for golfing. Blouses baffle de- 1 scription, particularly the white, cream, e and black silks, which have "snatched < a grace beyond the reach of art." « Blouses are shown also in delaines, t cashmeres, etc., of newest design. Pale- ' tots and raincoats promise to be much < worn this year, and the firm has laid " c in a fine range of them, in various colors ,and cloths. Downstairs the tables, ' stands, and lines are full of the new 1 season's goods. Summarised, they com- | prise eider-down quilts, new blousings 1 (principally stripes), neckwear in lac s s and silks, belts in different materials, I dress materials (the new Vandyke figur- s ing, shot effects, combination colours, J new wave stripe, and so on); cream * embroidered blousings, ladies' and chil- * dren's underwear; combs, gloves, fur .necklets, and so on. The showrooms , will be open early this morning. JIOREY AXD SOX. {

Fashion-leaders in Paris and London ' wear nothing more stylish than the mil- , linery now showing at Messrs. Morev J and Son'« up-to-date establishment in , "Devon Street only." All the styles { that have been the rage in the great centres of fashion are reproduced in the firm's showrooms, which have latterly p teen enlarged and improved—tie enJargemeat being welcomed alike by the public and the staff. No doubt there r ] are larger showrooms in the Dominion, (, and larger display?, of the newest a autumn and winter millinery, too, but s] there can hardly be any millinery show- n ing that is more up-to-date, more de- p lightful in its grouping, more exquisite „ in its trimming and fashioning, or more t 'moderate in the charges to the public, r who are the most critical and discrimin- t; pting judges. A visit to the well-known Store yesterday found the preparations for the opening display well forward. In the showroom the centre tables were (tastefully decorated, with beautifully jtrimmed millinery, including about forty specially trimmed London and 5 Paris models, in the new styles, of 1 course, and no two alike. Then there * are untrimmed hats in felt and straws, J pnd many novelties in the way of neck- t [wear, belts, etc. These are the latest productions of the European modistes, and are bewildering in their multiplicity i of design. The display of blouses is t even better than ever shown by tnis t firm. There are blouses of delaine, flan- s Bel, veiling, winceys, and silk, in all conceivable shades and designs, and they i make a charming show. The second i showroom contains hundreds of ladies 3 Itweed costumes, jacket*, skirts, and i underskirts. The costumes are mostly 1 cf the new "directoire" style, and the i jackets in various patterns, mostly | Ahrce- quarter and full-length. A special J line in this conMction, and one that 1 will doubtless recwe early attention, is < a line of twenty becoming cloth paletots. ! The tailor-made costumes are splendidly < tailored, and Mr. Morey considers them < the finest he has ever imported. They 1 are showing in all the newest ma- ] terials and in colours that will sell well and last well. A gathering of all that < 5s modish in underskirts include many i beautiful skirts of'moreen and silk, in ehot effects and plain colours, all well ' tailored. Furs and muffs have been f jiought largely in a good market, and ithere are offered some beauties in foxa- < line, marmot, squirrel, bear, fox, and Japanese minx—an assortment that will lardly be equalled outside the four centres. With an eye to the wet weathcr the firm is offering a selection of new macintoshes, in all colours, silk finish, J with lustre effects, very choice goods; ' and about sixty raincoats, including the ' famous "Barlo Millsian" and "Aquaibacta," which are noted for style and durability. Another lately replenished department in the showroom is the corset department, where the new " 1 I' .' <• W. 8.." and "Warner's Rustless,' in all ' sizes, can be found. Sixty dozen umbrellas, with specially strong frames and cood handles, have just been opened. The main shop is re-decked from end to end. Dress tweeds include Scotch tweed mixtures and plain cloths, all new shades, with the famous "l'irle ' fnish that won't cockle or shrink. The new (trimmings to match are stocked as a "matter of course. To meet a popular demand Messrs. Morev and Son have indented another shipment of their wellknown Cheviot serves, from 44-inch to 152-inch. These have an enviable reputation for good wearing qualities. The firm has excelled all previous importations of eider-down quilts, which were secured direct from the makers, Messrs. IMcLintock and Sons, their name being B sufficient guarantee of quality. AH (sizes are stocked, and all colours in floral sateens, floral satins, and sateen And silk mixtures. Every other department in this increasingly popular and long-established emporium is replete With the latest importations, of which may be mentioned blankets, towels, quilts, damasks, and Manchester goods, from the world's best makers, which completes'a record display. Men's wear Sias not been neglected, and the finest quality in English underclothing, and men's mercery of all kinds, is stocked iwith a completeness that well-dressed men c an vouch for. : * .WfllTi! AND SON'S. ' Messrs. White and Sons were fortunate when they gave their Home buyers •practically "carte blanche" in the manner of their buying for the autumn and - winter Season. Apart from the unusual excellence of the millinery the firm has iust opened a wide range of the most charming neckwear and belts. It is in these lines that Messrs. White and-'Son* are always popular with the particular ?*■-' -shoppers* who kpow the finesse of dress«en

this year is of greater importance than usual, more elaborate in its design. The most important and imposing portion of this display, however, is the millinery. Those ol us who have hoped for moderation in the size of our hats as the season advanced have trusted in vain, for the liats have obtained dimensions never seen before. The new season lias ; brought in, too, a most original broad* brimmed low-crowned toque, which is just now the favourite of all Paris. The large hat is richly trimmed for the most part with exquisite osirich leathers, immense wings and magnificent aigrettes. They are made to represent the limst light and shade effects. and are principally of dark material—velvet, felt, and ottoman. Other beautiful trimmings are immense silk roses mixed with silver and velvet, rows of beads, little chains of cut jet, ostrich tips, Amazon feathers, Paradise and o>preys, lovely tulle ruches and immense rosettes.' pretty bird arrangements, owl wings and heads, coarse passementerie cord finished oil' with tassels, and dainty passementerie and silk balls the same colour as the hat. Favourite colours are mole, brown and golden brown, old rose, peacock blue, and emerald. Some charming specimens: Xo. 1, white satin shape, brim lined with black satin, slightly tilted in front, swathed with white chiffon, with large flat black and white ings. and buckles of black sequins; Xo. 2, a peacock nine ottoman, with white satin lining, trimmed with white wings and paradise plunres of peacock blue, and braiding of the same shade; Xo. 4 *la forme Napoleon" in dove grey, with white wings swathed in dove grey chiffon; Xo. 4, cinnamon straw, smaller shape, swathed in brown tulle, and a cerise owl on cither side of the crown. There is also a choice range of Parisienne ready-to-wear hats in silk, felt, and straw. Bespoke millinery is a feature of the Arm's 'operations. Children's millinery is represented in pretty babette felts in white and colours, and white Victoria bonnets. The belts arc choice, and in many colours, principally plain broad bands of satin, elastic, or tinsel and tinselled floral design, with good cut metal buckles, and indirectoire style. Neckwear includes accordeon-pleated and frilled silk and lace high collars, real hand-made Irish crochet work; plastrous rabats, and jabots. Dress goods are full of style and quality, the chevron stripe being the latest, worked in different modes. The firm has re-stocked its famous " Kashraera" face cloths in all fashionable shades, " Viyella " blousings, in all the new double-tone stripes on cream, green, and brown grounds; delaines, and others in black and white and colours. There is an exclusive range of 70 robe lengths, no two alike. Laces and trimmings, fancy buttons, the popu- • lar Russia braid, millinery trimmings (up to 6s 9d a yard), are all in stocl* largely, as well as the latest in furspointed fox and moles aud neutria. Empire coats are shown in fawn, peacock, and reseda, and there is a large range of the latest styles in costumes, of which the firm was fortunate in securing a big line of samples, well made and lined throughout. The newest things in silk macintoshes and in jackets are deserving of more than passing mention. Practically the whole of the premises is being utilised in the display.