WOMAN'S WORLD.

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LI, Issue 228, 19 September 1908, Page 4

WOMAN'S WORLD.

THE SEASON'S FASHIONS. | NOTES FROM LONDON. \Y.. have been permitted by Messrs. Wlii e Jt Sons, New Plymouth, to reproduce the following notes from tli°ir Jion:e buyer:— Tlij millinery worn during spring and sunuaer has been lull of interest and diversity. The general tendency to heigU has been quite as remarkable in the trimming as in the crowns. Indeed, many of the hats at present worn rea.ii height entirely through the trimmings crowded upon them, the crowns themselves toeing comparatively low. The full crowns, Charlotte Corday style, have been highly favoured, and a number of hats with sheer sides, innocent of brim, have been worn by som e very prominent people. Toques have been talked of a great deal. Lots of crinoline hats have been wanted, and the all-straw hat—the hat with no trimming beyond trimmings of straw —has reached a pitch of perfection not seen before. Some of these hat s in art mixtures can lay claim to real beauty, and they «e naturally very strong in wear, admirably meeting the demands of iliose who wish to combine style with simplicity of make and durability. The stiff shape covered with stretched silk lias won much esteem. The extreme hanging and waving ostrich leathers of the last two summers have been seen again, but there is a reaction against this mode. Plenty of ostrich ig worn, however, and plenty of paradise. The method oi using the latter is undergoing a change. It :s much more divided up than formerly and " made more of." Quills have been more than a little to the fore, and are improving their position again. Ospreys are worn, but have suffered some eclipse under the influence of the notion that their collection involves cruelty. Very small flowers have been mixed with large, such as cabbage roses. .Hydrangeas are favoured with daisies like small sunflowers. Among large flowers, arum lilies have attained some prominence. Tulle ig still much used. A variety of fane nets have been used in millinery in all colours, and the filet square mesh so popular for dress generally, lias been made conspicuous in the trimming of headgear, while a fair proportion of hats have pieces o£ good coloured embroidery on them. Gauze and tinsel ribbons have been extensively used, gold and silver continuing their popularity. Hibbon velvets are in demand under the influence of plain hats, trimmed only with loops of such ribbons. In colours, the great innings of browns continues. Cinnamon has been the brown that has gone best. Special blues like Saxe, Copenhagen, and Nattier are much nought after, and the liking of tbern will probably continue strong. Old blue and old rose are both good, llusk pink, all sorts of greys, lager and champagne are also good millinery shad. i. Mole and cerise are to be early start rs in the autumn, when it seems likely that various developments of the gran:iy bonnet style will be seen. A fresh campaign, too, in favour of the toqu'> will take place at the end of the rummer, bilk-covered hat s will l >e preferred to felts by many. The" great bulk of the mantle trade has been in costumes, made in Cheviot serge effects in self colours, such as saxe blue, reseda, rose, helio, and other pastel shades for earlv spring. These have been in smart short jackets, reaching to the top of the hip, with neatly tailored collar and cuffs. In many case s the are trimmed with narrow braids in Taney designs, relieved witli small gilt buttons, etc. The summer trade has been done on cream serge costumes, in similar styles to the early spring goods. Oatmeal cloth or serge has been in great vogue—in fact, this has been the scarcest cloth m the market, owing to the great demand for it. Tussore, B ilk, alpaca, and Sicilian coats have, owing to the hot weather, a very large sale, made jn loose sac back shapes and bishop sleeves and roll collars and cuffs, daintily trimmed 1o match and to contrast. Manufacturers have already shown the new ranges of mantles for autumn and winter wear, and these show, a preponderance of long coats and paletots, 50 inches to 56 inches | deep, made in fitting semi-sac and fullsac shapes, with large roll and storm collars and lapels, both in d.-b. and s.-b. fronts to button through. The materials consist 01 blanket cloths, Cheviot serges, and dark' tweeds, also shadow stripe cloths, in moss or blanket finish. Costumes are shown chiefly with deep 40in. to 48in. jackets, tight-fitting and Norfolk shapes, with strapped skirts, the materials used being also Cheviot and rough-faced effects, the favourite shades being sdbdued greens, browns, blues, and the fashionable pale ale. Ladies' Shirts and Blouses.—There has bees a good 1 demand this season for filet late net blouse s trimmed with strappings of mercer lawn. A very large quantity has been sold, owing no doubt to the exceptional summer, of white muslin blouses, trimmed with broad insertions down the front and

across the top of shoulder broad hcnistitthed. The kimona style in both the •" above classes has also had a considerable demand this season, and all garments with three-quarter sleeves. Fur the coming autumn we feel sure thee will be a large quantity ot delaine garments wanted. Jap silk blouses are again coming to the front for the autumn. Coloured silk taffeta and black men' blouses will be in demand. Of dress goods, the outstanding featurn this season in all materials, both •woollen and cotton, woven and printed, has heen the border ia wide cloths iroin 47in. to 54in. In Bradford goods, bright materials have been the most popular, plain and fancy mohairs, plain and striped Sicilians, creams in coatings and Cheviots, also fancy cream chevrons (small designs) have had a good run. Saxe blue, royal blue, gendarme blues, forest green (between myrtle and moss), green like myrtle, and a few cinnamons ' have been the fashionable colours, whilst there has been quite a lot of business in pastel shades (sky, pink,'and nil) and olive. The best selling belts of the season hav e been galon belts. These, in Oriental styles with liberal admixture of tinsel with silk, and in some cases all tinsel, have held the field. Good quality straight leather belts in suede and grain -d calf, with calf leather covered buckli '3, have also sold very well indeed. Durir,' the recent bright weather tliero has been (and still is) a brisk demand for white web, white pique, and white embroidered belts on cotton foundation.