BISHOP SELWYN'S VISIT TO TAUPO

Taupo Times, Volume IV, Issue 199, 18 November 1955, Page 1

BISHOP SELWYN'S VISIT TO TAUPO

120 Years Ago This Mcnth Among the early pakeha visitors to the Taupo Countrv was George Augustus Selwyn,' Bishop of New Zealand, who in the course of a journey on foot from 5" ha n:es Lo Rotorua, and thence through the centre of the North Island to the mouth of the Wanganui River and on to Wellington. reachcd the northern shore of Ihe Lake at Waipahihi on November 3. .1843, one hundred and twelve years ago this month. We are indebted to the Rt. Rev. W, T. Simkin, Bishop of Auckland, for . he following notes on Bishop Selwyn 's visit. Given in Bishop Selwyn's own words, they have been extracted from a "History of the Diocese of Vaiapu" compiled some years ago by Bishop Simkin. One of the routes to Taupo used by early travellers was from the southern end of Lake Rotomahana, keep-

mg to the east of the Waikato River, and Bishop Selwyn "s party followed this, traversing what is novv the Reporoa and Broadlands farming district. After leaving Lake Rotomahana, the party crossed "a succession of bare hills, with short tussocky grass, interspersed with pumice stone" and "came in vievr of the blain. bounded to the south bv a hich

hill, Tauhara., the wellknown mark of the north-east extremity of Taupo Lake." The only remarkable object on the plain, the narrative stat.es, wa.s "a large ngawha, looking. in the distanc.e. like a railway train crossing a flat country." This was the large boiling spring at Ohaki, whose steam column may todav be seen from the Taupo-Rotorua highway, about a mile south from the Waikato Briclgc at Mihi. Passing about a mile east of Ohaki the travellers came at dusk to a small village, Takapau, on the west bank of the Waikato, to which they were paddled across in a canoe, to be

met by Mr Spencer, the missionary, who had preceded them a dav before by a different route. Bishop Selwyn's account continues: "November 3rd (1843), Taupo. Starting at half past eight. after morning service, we recrossed the Waikato, and proceeded along the same dry plain, unvaried by anything, except occasionally an expiring Ngawha. The path lav under the western slqpe of the fine hill (Tauhara), which had been before us the last day, and whose base we were now rounding. Before noon, we came in siglit of the corner of the lake from which the Waikato finds its outlet; and at tialf-past twelve, we came to the beach, at a warm spring, by name Waipahihi. "A strong southerly blast, fresh from Tongariro, was lashing up the lake; a mass of dark clouds rested upon the great mountains to the south, while to the northward bright gleams of sunshine burst upon the foam of the waves, which rolled up the crests of golden white. We were so fortunate as to see Taupo under the most striking atmospherical effects, during the time that we were valking along its eastern shore. "A walk of three hours and a half, round the hollow of a bay, brought us to Rotongaio, where we found a party of kind and hospitable natives of our own communion, to which T presented Mr Spencer as their appointed Minister, an announcement which they received with great satisfaction, and promised immediately to build a new chapel, and a small house for him to live in during his visits. (Continued on Page 9)

BISHOP SELWYN'S VISIT

(Continued froni page 1) A pig was immediately ordered to be killed, and all the resources of native hospitality put in requisition, including a large supply of the "white bait" (inanga) of the lake. "November 4 th — Rotongaio. The morning was spent in Divine Service, and in taking a census of the inhabitants, that Mr Spencer might know his own. I was glad to find the population of the district larger than I had expected, and amply justifying the appointment of a Clergyman to minister to them. The population of this part of the count.ry used to be a terror to the .neighbourhood; but the majority are now converted to Christianity, and are no longer disposed to go to war. "About 10 a.m. we started to go to the next village, Orona, the place recommended for Mr Spencer's chief residence. It proved to be only six or seven miles from Rotongaio, The clouds had passed away, and the whole lake lay before us in perfect repose. The western shore was distinctly seen, receding into the deep hollow bay Karangahape, guarded at each of its points by noble cliffs, many hundred feet in height. On one side, high scarps of pumicestone of dazzling whiteness shone out against the deep blue sky, beyond the furthermost of which the landscape was closed in by the snowy cone of Tongariro (i.e. Ngauruhoe.- — Ed.) with its small bright jet of sfeam escaping from the Ngawha at its summit. "YVe soon reached Orona, but found the Pa itself anything but ;i desirable resting place on a hot day, being built on a flat of dry pumice-shingle, which reflected the heat upwards in a manner that would soon have made our tents uninhabitable. But, espying a lovely grove of Karaka trees, about a quarter of a mile from the Pa, we removed thither and found about six acres of very fertile ground nestled under the hills, and a shade so perfect, that it seemed made for a place to spend the Lord's Day, and to assemble the people for Divine Worship. "The Pa being quite new, they had not yet built their chapel. We pitched our tents under one of the largest. of the Karaka trees, upon a carpet of soft grass and backing upon a large canoe, which kept off the wind from the lower part. Mr Speneer remained behind to take the services at Rotongaio, and Mr Cotton and I prepared for the duties of the next day at Orona. "This being the day on which, in May last, I had formed an engagement with the Chief Justice (Sir William Martin — Ed.) to meet him, God willing, at Taupo, I was much pleased, and a good deal amused, to receive the news this evening, of his having arrived at the other end of the lake; but that he would not join me till Monday, as he wished to spend Sunday with the principal chief of the Country, who lives at the south-west extremitv of the lake. "November 5th — Sunday. At nine a.m. the natives assembled under the Karaka trees to morning service. The Lord's Supper was laid on the large canoe, which, I have already said, protected the hinder part of the tents. Here I confirmed six natives, who had been previously Baptised by Mr Brown, and afterwards administered the Lord's Supper to them. In the afternoon, I baptised the children (five) and confirmed three other natives, who had not been in time in the morning. Great joy was expressed by all at the arrival of the "Minita" and it was generallv agreed that the spot on which we were, was the best place for his residence; but on this point I said that I must c.onsult the principal chief, Te Heuheu, before I made up my mind." It may be noted, with referencc to the mention of t4ie Waipahihi "spring," that fhere was at the time of Bishop Seiwyn's visit, no Maori village at Waipahihi. Similarly t here was no village at Waitahanui, the

kainga in that area being at Rotongaio. From Rotongaio the party followed the beach. Orona, the "next village," appears to have been situated near the smalJ creek that runs into the Lake about halfway between the present Hatepe Store and Hamaria (or Hallet's Bay). Mr Awhi Northcroft, of Waitahanui, states that Orona was the name of the area on both sides of that creek. The karaka grove mentioned was situated some distance to the east of the present road, near Hallett's Bay. This place was later given the Biblical name of Hamaria (i.e., Samaria), which has remained as a well-known Maori place- name to the present day. Bishop Seiwyn's account of the remainder of his Taupo visit will he published in next week's issue.