TAUPO GARDENS

Taupo Times, Volume I, Issue 24, 25 June 1952, Page 4

TAUPO GARDENS

PLANT1NG RHODODENDRONS

(By

Flora.)

Exploring for Rhododenrons in the China and Himalayaian regions has long been a favourite pursuit for the keen Cotarust. About seventy years ago, Sir Joseph Hooker discovered and introduced many fine species of this shrub from the Himalayas. Several of these, being tootender for most parts of England were crossed with the hardy kinds to produce those large flowered hybrids such as "Pink Pearl," which have done much to popularise rho~ dodendrons.

In more recent times Messrs. Kingdon, Ward and Forest have explored other regions in China and Asia and introduced species showing great variation in types of growth, colour, and size of flowers. Hybridists have been at work on these new species; and now quantities of introductions . from the wilds have reached the present day market. It may take anything up to twenty years for a hybrid to flower from seed. Rhododenrons like a cool moist, well-drained soil, free from lime, with an abundance of organic matter to maintain a mild acidity.

As they are surface rooters it is not necessary to trench deeply, though a certain trenching is advisable, as they require good drainage. When preparing the ground, quantities of well-rotted farm yard manure, and leaf-mould can be addedr but manure must not come in direct contact with the roots of newly planted shrubs. It is very important to pay attention to the surface soil, never to dig deeply near the roots, to keep it weeded, and to apply mulcihes of leaf mould, lawn clippings; anything which will rot and keep the roots cool and moist. As rhododendrons — the same ap-^ plies to azaleas — have such a compact root system they can be transplanted with safety when quite large. When the shrub arrives from the nursery~man, remove the sacking, but do not disturb the ball of earth. Remember not to plant too deeply, and to ram or tramp the soil as firm as that about the original ball of roots.

Aitswers to Questions A reader, ^Green Fingers," asks what is the cause of Daphne leaves turning yellow; also Camellia and Sassanquia with like complaint? What can be applied to combat this affilication ? Apparently there can, be several causes for the yellowing of the leaves of the above shrubs. My daphne is not exempt, and I am inclined to blame our rigorous climate, excessive heat in summer, cold in the winter. It may be in sufficient moisture, lack of organic matter in the soil, insufficiency of iron, the presence of lime, or too much water. If this yellowing is due to the fact that the plants in question are not ob~ taining the iron they require it is most likely due to too much lime in fche soil— though this seems strange in Taupo — rather than a deficiency in iron. Remedy:

Apply about an ounce of sulphur to the soil around the plant, and in a few months time the foliage should begin to take on a brighter hue. Another reader asks the cause of a damaged Rhododendron leaf. It appears to have been attacked by a rust fungus. Remove and burn the worst affected leaves, then spray with Cuprox on a dull day. tSometimes if the plant has been deprived of moisture for a short period, some leaves fail to regain the moisture lost through ti anspiration, and browning of leaves results. Another cause for damaged Rhododendron leaves may be sun-scald. When hot bright sunshine follows rain, drops of water lying on the leaves condense the sunrays to such an extent that the tissue is bumt.