NEW GUINEA. A FOUR WEEKS' CRUISE IN A FIVETON BOAT IN AND ABOUT THE FLY RIVER.

Te Aroha News, Volume II, Issue 92, 7 March 1885, Page 5

NEW GUINEA. A FOUR WEEKS' CRUISE IN A FIVETON BOAT IN AND ABOUT THE FLY RIVER.

It was my intention to make this trip in our new mission yacht of fifteen or twenty tons, which we are building in the Papuan industrial school here, but as it is not yet ready for sea, and this be'ng the best season of the year for cruising in the unsurveyed waters of the Papuan Gulf, I decided to start in our little Venture, registered four and three-quarter tons, which has rendered such good service during the last two years. She is a lugger boat of light draught, which we purchased for thirty pounds, and rebottomed, re-masted, end fitted for river work. We keep her constantly running about amongst our stations in the western branch of our New Guinea mission, and she is well known by all the natives, and regarded as a messenger of peace. After thoroughly repairing, cleaning, and painting the little craft, to make her as safe and comfortable as possible, we loaded her with, supplies for the mission stations, had a most interesting valedictory service with the two • new teachers appointed to the Fly River from our Papuan seminary, and lett Murray Island on the Sth November, with a fair fresh breeze for Darnley, which we reached after a six hours' passage, and where I proposed spending the Sabbath. This island is likely to become of great I importance as the Papuan Gulf opens up to 1 commerce. It is situated in a very central position for communication with the whole gulf between the Fly Kiver and Hall Sound, with a fair wind each way during both mon- ] soons, has good anchorage, plenty of good j water ; is fertile and healthy, and contains but a scanty population. The passage for all vessels passing through Torres Strait lies between it and Bramble Cay. It is easy of access for the largest ships, within boating distance of Thursday Island, and would makea good depot and sanatorium for the Gulf trade. Already there are six bcche-dc-mer fishing stations established there ; yet these veiy advantages for a commercial centre render it less suitable than the neighbouring island of Murray for the educatianal centre of our mission. Murray has for us all the advantages of Darnley, with the additional one of being a little out of the track of vessels, and surrounded by reefs, which secures to us comparative quietness in our work. We have, therefore, decided to make Murray the permanent centre and sanatorium of our rapidly-extending mission in the Papuan Gulf.

A Lovely Evening and its Sequel. On our arrival at Darnley, we were met by all the natives and the South Sea Islanders who belong to the beche-de-mcr fishing stations there. After our evening meal we lay on the green lawn in front of the teacher's house on the hill, under the shadow of cocoanut palms, with a magnificent view of small islands and extensive reefs before us, around which the crested waves were rolling and thundering, and anon throwing themselves in wild fury against the cause of their t. bstruction with tremendous force ; then with a loud cry, as of impotent rage, and a leap in the air. they fell back broken and exhausted. The setting sun, so indescribably beautiful in these parts, was throwing its golden rays upon the dancing waves, adding prismatic beauty to the scene ; and long ere we had finished our conversation upon matters social, religious, matrimonial, and political (for we have to adjudicate upon all sorts of questions here), the moon had come forth " like a fair shepherdess with her full flock of stars," forming another beautiful picture. It was one of those nights and one of those meetings long to be remembered, and yet that very night is perhaps a pretty fair sample of missionary life, and, indeed, of all human life, for it has a dai*k side. After writing a couple of letters I stretched myself upon a rai?ed platform in the teacher's house, hoping to dream of my happy home and family far away ; but alas ! for our hopes and dreams. There are greater annoyances than mosquitoes in most of these grass houses, especially where, as in this case, there is a sand floor. I was attacked on all 3ides by the vicious little pests, and obliged to get up, light the lamp, take off my clothes, turn them inside out, and shake off these native companions. I dare not lie on the grass outside, owing to the heavy dew. There was no escape ; so I drew my socks over my trousers, buttoned up my coat, and endeavoured to keep them on the outside, ; but all my efforts were in vain. Like the social, political, and even scientific and religious fleas that annoy and worry us in our daily life, I was kept in a kind of purgatory all' night. These sort of nights and those spent in our little Venture, when anchored off' a dreary part of the uninhabited coast where mosquitoes abound, and the night is dark, rainy and sultry, obliging you either to sit on deck under an umbrella, or lie on the locker shelf below, where there is only four inches clear space between your nose and the deck, and to get in and out of which berth is quite a work of art— and then to be devoured by mosquitoes —these are the sort of nights when one really begins to think about the hardships of missionary life. But it is all forgotten next day in the bright sunshine and excitement of visiting some village.

The Islands of Torres Strait.— Progress of the Mission. There are only eighty people on Darnley, about forty of whom attend the day school. Nine are members of the church, and eight are in the seekers' class, desiring admission. After the morning service we left for Ugar, the neighbouring island. These islands, Murray, Darnley, and Stevens ( Ugar), are of the same formation, and the people speak the same language, which I find has many words almost identical with the language spoken in t^e Fly River, opposite .vhich these islands are situated. The other islands in Torres Strait are much less fertile, and the natives are more like the Australians. Ugar is tne smallest island of the three, but it is a perfect garden. There is an extensive reef around it, which, not being properly marked on the chart, has caused the wreck of several vessels passing through Torres Strait. It was here we used to get coal for our little steamer Ellengowan in the early days of the mission, from a Dutch barque wrecked on the reef. There are still several hundreds of tons lying there in shallow water. Ugar has a small community of intelligent natives, who live in good houses, and have extensive plantation, possess a decked boat, in which they collect beche-de-nier and sell to a trader on Murray Island, Their teacher, like the one at Darnley, is a native of Murray, was trained in our Papuan seminary, and is doing a good work at his station, where he is much respected. I walked across and round the island with the chief and a few of his people, from whom I got some interesting information about their heathen habits and custom 3 and their first intercourse with foreigners. Our evening service was attended by the entire population, who also attended the day school next morning, and gave fair evidence of a desire to become acquainted with the

mysteries of reading, writing, and arithmetic. From Ugar we ran into Thursday Island to get letters and teachers' supplies, and thence proceeded to Mabuiag, anchoring for a night on the way off a small uninhabited island, where our little crafb rolled most unpleasantly. The boat being quite full of cargo, all hands had to sleep on deck, for which purpose we lashed an oar to the two masts, over which the foresail was thrown, making a tolerably comfortable house for the night. A fire was made in a camp-oven and the " billy " boiled for tea. We were off again next morning, and reached Mabuiag early in the afternoon under a scorching sun and with but a light breeze. Here we have a church of forty-two members out of a population of 400. There are fourteen in the seekers' class and nearly 200 in attendance at the day school. Here I spent a most enjoyable Sabbath with the people, administered the sacrament, baptised twentyfive adults and twenty-three children, and received five into Church fellowship. This is one of our most prosperous and orderly mission stations. There is a neat lathe and plaster chapel, and three houses built of the same material, on the mission premises, j The people are all tolerably well-dressed, look healthy and happy, and seem anxious to advance in civilisation. The chief is a very intelligent man, ppeaks good English, has established a few laws, and appointed five policemen to secure order amongst his people, and is an active deacon of the Church. With this interesting community I spent three pleasant, days, which, I trust, were profitable to the people. On a small islet, close to Mabuiag, is a sacred house, in which are preserved nearly one hundred human skulls, being those of enemies taken in war. The people are now living at peace with their old enemies, worshipping together and intermarrying. Such are the results of ten years' missionary labour.

Converted Skull Hunters. From Mabuiag we proceeded to Dauan, where we arrived an hour after sunset, fl t this place the anchorage is exposed during the S.E. monsoon, a.id as the tide was running to windward when wo arrived, our little craft rolled tremendously. It was with difficulty I reached the shore in the i dingy that we carried on deck ; still, the discomfort of gotting wot and of a native house was small compared with remaining on board for the night, although landing in so small a boat on a dark stormy night was not without danger. However, we reached the shore all right, and very soon had a good fire made, and our "billy " on it, and enjoyed our tea and biscuit all the more as we heard, the wind whistling round the house, and thought of our boat rolling and plunging in the darkness. We knew she was safe, her anchor and chain being heavy and good. After evening worship and a " yarn '| with the natives, I rolled myself in my blanket and slept soundly till morning. Between Dauan and the mainland there is but a narrow, deep channel, although at high tide there is about four miles of water between them. It was from this mountainous island (the only high land in or near this part of New Guinea) that we commenced our mission on the coast in 1871. It is still the healthiest point amongst all our stations in that locality, and has rendered, and is still rendering, good service as a retreat and sanatorium for the teachers. Next morning we crossed over to Saibai, where we have a very interesting and prosperous mission, from which we have got some of our best young men in the Papuan seminary. They were formerly great warriors, notorious skull hunters, and the terror of the adjacent coast east and west. When I landed amongst them in 1871 they were a wild, dangerous, degraded tribe, living in a filthy village, the houses dilapidated and huddled together, pigs, dogs, and people all occupyiag the same quarters. Our presence there was scarcely tolorated, and we v ere peremptorily and angrily ordered away from one part of the village. For years the natives not only refused to embrace Christianity, but threatened the life of the teacher. Twice he fled from his station, and I had difficulty in replacing him. They then attempted to poison him. I was advised to abandon the place as a mission station, but we persevered, and by the blessing of God succeeded. The whole village, numbering 4SB, has embraced Christianity. Seventy-six are members of the Church, siccty-eight are in theseekers' class, and two hundred and sixtyseven attend the day school. The whole bay is lined with neat, clean, well-built detached houses, with a substantial fence in front, and a broad, well-kept road between the fence and the houses. All the people are clothed, some very respectably. The chief, who is a fine, intelligent, energetic young fellow, has established laws, and organised a police force, which secures order and promotes the welfare of the community.

Visit to the Bush Tribes, We were met on the beach by a crowd of smiling natiyes, all anxious to shake hands, a rather formidable and sometimes disagreeable ceremony ; still, not so bad as rubbing noses. Fancy rubbing noses with four or five hundred greasy black fellows ! Better hold a sort of levde, followed by an application of soap and water! I remained two days at Saibai, holding the usual meet- j ings, examinations, services, and adminis- j tering the sacrament. Wo then organised an expedition to visit the bush tribes, who j have expressed a desire to see the white missionary and have a teacher located amongst them. I had two teachers from our Papuan seminary with me for this purpose. In forming stations on the coast, the presence of our mission vessel has a salutary effect upon the natives. They see that the teachers are not like driftwood, but are well supported and will be looked after. To make a similar impression upon the minds of the savages inland, it is desirable that the teachers be accompanied by a large number of their friends. About sixty cf the Saibains r&adily volunteered, the bush between the coast and the place where we were to meet the bush tribes by appointment being good hunting-ground for kangaroos, cassowaries, wild fowl, and pigs. We started in the Venture (mission boat) and seven canoes, and proceeded along the coast eastward for ten miles to the Mabidauan River, where we commenced our journey inland. On the western side of this three-mouthed river there is the only hill in this part of New Guinea. It is about 100 feet high, and stretching away from it to the westward thero is very good land, free from mangrove trees and swamps, with four miles of fine sandy beach. The natives about this part of the coast have all retired inland from fear of the Tugarian cannibal pirates, who make periodical voyages along the coast, murdering and plundering wherever they get a chance. Messengers had preceded U 9 to inform the bush tribes of our approach, and the place of meeting. After walking through six miles of good sugar country we arrived at the rendezvous nearly two hours before the bushmen. We hoped and desired to see a large gathering of the people, but there were only a few representative men from each of the tribes. The bushmen, as far as I have seen them, both on the S.E. Peninsula and on the great body of the island, are decidedly inferior to the coast tribes physically, socially and morally. They are diminutive in stature, dwell in inferior houses, and live together pretty much like fowls. Skin diseases are prevalent, and I^im told that they never wash themeelveß, ■f hey greatly fear the coast tribes, both to

the east and west, who for ages- have regarded the bush as their happy skull-hunt-ing ground, and have driven the inland tribes to select most out-of-the-way places for their villages, whioh, judging from those I have visited, are well fortified by swamps and rivers. I proposed to the bush tribes whose representatives met us that they should assemble at our place of rendezvous, where their forefathers resided, and form a township, assuring them that there is no longer cause to fear their former enemies of Saibi and Fly Riper, as Christian teachers were now living amongst them. They seemed very anxious to occupy their former planting ground, and promised to remove thither at once and build their houses, also one for the teachers who are to reside with them. The place is well wooded, is near a river, contains a cocoanut grove and good plantation ground, and I hope ere long to see these scattered and persecuted tribes living unmolested with their teachers and advancing in civilisation.

A Night Encampment. We returned to the coast, and on our way managed to bag a cassowary, two wild pigs, two kangaroos, and a few wild fowl and pigeons. Wo camped on the beach for the night, and very soon the fires were lit and the game roasting on hot stones. Break -winds wero made by a fence of cocoanut leaves, and I was accommodated with a mat on the ground and a sail overhead. It is especially observable amongst the natives how a good meal puts everybody in a good humour. All our party seemed unusually happy that evening. After evening worship we had a long talk about their heathen customs, much to the delight of the old men, who were the oracles of the evening. Tho only thing wo had to fear was rain, and as there had not beon any rain for months, we felt pretty safe, especially k as the night was beautifully clear. Owing to an extensive dand flat, the Venture was anchored neatly two miles off, so that in any caso it would bo difficult to find her at night. As the evening advanced conversation flagged, ono after another rolled himself up in his mat, and the babel of voices was reduced to a few quiet conversations at different fires. Finally silence and darkness reigned, until we were all awoke about two o'clock in the morning by a very formidable enemy in the shape of a heavy downpour of rain. Its effects were highly amusing, as well as decidedly unpleasant. The sleeping camp was soon astir ; silenco gavo place to noise and confusion. At first wo all supposed that it was only a passing shower, and there was a good deal of merriment amongst tIIOSO who had secured dry spots under trees, whilst others were rushing hithor and thither trying to improve their quarters. Five minutes had made a most ludicrous difference in our camp. The natives now, instead of being stretched on their mats in every I direction, apparently endeavouring to covor ' as much space as possible, were sitting on stones or pieces of wood with their knees j drawn up under their chin, and their mats over their heads. Fortunately for me, I had taken my sun umbrella on shore, under which, like the rest, I tried to occupy as little space as possible, squatting like the natives, with my pillow (the bag containing our provisious and barter goods) on my knee. With my umbrella and the sail I managed pretty well to keep off the waters from above ; it was the streams below that caused us trouble.

The Katau River. However, as there is an end to the longest lane, so there is to the greatest tropical shower and most unpleasant night. With the break of day came fine weather. The sun rose in a clear sky, and everything looked peaceful and bright, as if there had been no disturbing element during the night. Nature smiled, and so did we. The Saibaians returned in their canoes to their homes, and wo proceeded eastward to the Katau Kiver, whicli we reached at sunset. A narrow channel, with 10ft of water, leads through an extensive sand-flat to the mouth of this river, where a small island is situated, between which and the mainland there is a very good anchorage for small vessels, and plenty of good fresh water to be had from the river j at low tide, Katau and Tureture (five miles to the eastward) were our first mission stations on the mainland of New Guinea ; but, owing to the vory unhealthy nature of this low part of the country, our South Sea teachers could not remain. Again and again we tried it with different men, but always with the same result ; and had it not been for our sanatorium on one of the island?, some of our best teachers would have found their graves at these two stations. Last year I had the satisfaction of placing as teachers at these villages two of the iirst converts of our mission— Gauri and Ami — who were educated in our Papuan seminary at Murray Island, and who,being natives of Saibai, are accustomed to the climate. Katau is the port of four of our mission stations — two on the coast, and two inland. Enoka, with a number of his people from his station, six miles inland, met us at Katau, and I was pleased to see and hear evidences of the success of his work amongst the people. Katau is likely soon to become a port of considerable importance, owing to the good sugar-growing country and the quantity of cedar near the river. Already two settlers have established themselves there. One of them, a German artisan with his wife and four children, has already got himself into serious trouble with the natives by shooting their dogs, which, although annoying to him, are nevertheless very valuable to them, both for hunting wild pigs and protecting their plantations against them. He has also on two occasions threatened to shoot natives for a supposed insult to his wife, which was never offered, but arose through their j mutual ignorance of each other's language. The police magistrate at Thursday Island has already warned him. I have offered him some good advice, but I fear it is of no use. He is violent and obstinate, and seems to think that the German Government will act on his special behalf to secure to him the land he is occupying, and protect him against both English and natives ! It is precisely such men who sometimes cause Government great trouble and expense. However, he can scarcely expect the German Government to protect him and his family against fever during the approaching rainy season.

The Katau Mission Station. There are 400 natives at the villago of Katau, half of whom profess to have embraced Christianity, attend the. Sabbath services, and send their children irregularly to school. They have assisted the teacher in building a commodious house, and seemed pleased to have him amongstthem. Still, it is but the day of small things at that station. Tureture is situated about the middle of a fine sandy beach, twelve miles long, lined with cocoanut trees and plantations, five miles to the eastward of Katau. As it is completely exposed to the south-east trade wind, and difficult, even dangerous, landing in a boat, I generally visit it from Katau, leaving our little vessel at that port. Crossing the river in ourboat, andpassingthrough a belt of mangroves, we reached the open beach, along which we had a very enjoyable five-miles walk. The teacher, Gauri, had preceded us the night before, and was there with his peoplo, to receive us in front of his new house, which is a most imposing native structure. It stands behind a magnificent

old tree with wide-spreading branches, is 70ft long and 26ft wide, built on posts sft high, with a verandah all round, and a sort of gangway entrance. Its sides and roof are of palm leaves, sewn together. The whole is enclosed by a substantial fence. I was much^ pleased with theimproved appearance of things at Gauri's station since my last ) visit. The people assembled u nder the larjre shady tree, where I held a meeting with them. Ab at, Katau, some of them are clothed, and profess to have embraced the Gospel, but of course at all these new stations it is little more than an empty profos9ion at present. About half the people attend the services, and have given up working on Sundays. X either here nor at Katau has there been any war since these teachers wore located amongst them, so that there is roal cause for oncouragement atthe progress already made, and hope for the future. JJorom is associated with Gauri, and has charge of an i island station behind Tureture, where I located him a year ago. He and a number of his people met us at Tureture We locate the teachers by twos, and yet secure for them separate stations at convonient distances. We find this works better than having two families settled permanently at the same village. Thero can be but one top, sawyer. Returning to Katau by the route we went, we made an early start next mornI ing for Bampton Island, At tho mouth of the Fly lliver, anchoring for a iiight off Bristow Island, where a party of Europeans are cutting cedar. They told mo that they had 80,000 ft cut, and most of it ready for shipment. They are offered 8s a hundred for it alongside the vessel, by Burns, Philp, and Co., and one of .the party, has gone to Thursday Island to arrange for a vessel to take it away. The Gulf of Papua is capable of producing >a great amount of cedar, sugar, and rice,..

i Friendly Reception at Barapton Island. 1 OfF Bampton wo grounded on a sandbank, ; and had to wait for the rising tjdo. Pro- ; cecding through the convenient passage : between this island and the mainland, we 1 arrived at high tide, and so were able to ' sail across the extensive reef and anchor 1 close to the village. The teacher and somo 1 natives came off to meet and welcome us. 1 On the beach wo wero received by a crowd of natives, most of whom wero more or less clothed, although a large number wero in a perfectly nude state, who, I afterwards learnt, consider clothing as fit only for women. Here I landed a teacher and his wifo, whom I had brought from our Papuan seminary for a village on the mainland, near Bampton, which I visited on a previous trip, and arranged to locate a teacher amongst them. Ho will, however, remain at Bampton for a time till he becomes acquainted withthelanguage andthepeople. We had, as usual, an interesting meeting with the people, whom I addressed through the teacher. For them to live peaceably, and quietly listen to Christian counsel, is a great change. They are decidedly improving, although thero is still plenty of room for improvement. It was hero that the first martyrs of the New Guinea mission suffered (two Lifu teachers and their wives) only a few years ago. They were then a wild, murdering, thieving set, and they are not yet above doing a little quiet pilfering when a favourable opportunity presents itself. It is very encouraging, however, to see tho change that has already taken place. They now seem really anxious to advance in civilisation. The four chiefs havo established a few laws and formed themselves into a magisterial Bench to judge and punish offenders. They havo appointed five policemen, who are a terror to evildoers. Through the kindness of a friend I was able to supply them at all stations in this district with slates and slate-pencils, which tho teacher and people wovo delighted to receive. I hopo that they will make good use of them.

Ascending the Fly River. We left in the evening of the following day at high water, and had a delightful moonlight sail up the Fly River to Port Spicer, where we anchoied for the night. We could hear the drums of a party of natives who were camping near, and in the morning found ourselves surrounded by twenty-two canoes. They were all friendly, coming from villages on the opposite side of the river, where wo have mission stations. They were on a voyage to Katau to visit their iriends, and were making easy stages and enjoying themselves by the way. From Port Spicer we crossed over to Kiwai, the largest village* k m locality, the natives of which are feared throughout the district. Owing to its central position and large population, we have made it our headquarters in the Fly River. Hero I spent a Sabbath with the people. Crowds assembled from the neighbouring villages, doubtless from, curiosity and the hope of getting something ; however, I had their ear at the services, and endeavoured to "improve" the occasion. The congregation assembled under tho cocoanut trees in front of tho teacher's house— a gathering of naked savages. It was amusing to see them coming with their" bamboo riipes and fire-sticks, and a cocoanut for a seat. They sat in small groups, around which the pipe was continually being passed. They not only smoked during the service, but kept up a running commentary upon what I was saying, sometimes approving, sometimes doubting, and sometimes even declaring that my statements must be untrue. When called to order by the teacher who was interpreting ior me, everybody insisted upon his neighbour being silent, which, of course, made more noise than ever. Here, as at most of our new stations, there are a few who have especially attached themselves to the teachers, who are no doubt forming the nucleus of a Christian community. Thore is a very decided improvement in the Fly, .River since my last visit At Sumaiut and Samari, as at Kiwai, the teachers appear to have acquired considerable influence over the natives. They have erected commodious and substantial houses. The one at Samari is a particularly large and weVl-built housa— the finest teacher's house, I believe, in the wholo mission. I visitod tbo native plantations, which are very extensive, amidst a perfect forest of cocoanut and sago palms. The boundaries of each family are marked by trenches, which supply them with water for washing the sago. The soil is a rich alluvial ; stones are scarce.

Nineteen Mission Stations Established. We have now eight mission stations in the Fly Kiver, six on the eastern and two on the western side ; thus occupying all the villages of importance for twenty-five miles up. We shall continue extending our mission up the river, and to the eastward. Wo have four mission stations at and near the Katau River, one between the Mabidauan and Baxter Rivere, and tioo at Saibai and Dauan, makinsjifieen stations, besides four on islands in Torres Strait, making a total of nineteen mission stations in this branch of the New Guinea mission. Fourteen of the teachers occupying these stations have, with their wives, been educated in the Papuan seminary established at our central station on Murray Island, under the care of the Rev. Harry Scott and myself. Being natives of the locality, they are accustomed to the climate, and it is only by such an agency that we can ever hope to evangelise New Guinea. Our institution is the most interesting and important feature of our work. The seminary contains thirty young

men, some of whom are married. All are members of the church, and quite enthusiastic about pioneering work in New Guinea, and preparing to follow their friends who are already labouring there. The Industrial School (from which the seminary is fed) contains more than that number. Mr Bruce, a yacht-builder from Glasgow, who has settled here with his wife and family, is superintendent of this department. He and Mrs Bruce were members of a Presbyterian Church in Glasgow, and have joined us here. We have the mission yacht Mary (twenty tons) and a row of cottages on hand, and both nearly finished. The former is for work in the Gulf and rivers, for which the Ellengowan is too large ; the latter for the better accommodation of the students in the seminary. 1 may say, in concluding, that I was delighted to get back to Murray Island, and was warmly welcomed by our friends Mr and Mrs Scott and the Institution boys. My four weeks' absence made the place look more civilised and homely than over. S. McFarlane. M'ssion-house, Murray Island, December 12, 1884.