NOTES FOR THE LADIES. [BY THE AUCKLAND "STAR'S" LONDON CORRESPONDENT.]

Te Aroha News, Volume II, Issue 65, 30 August 1884, Page 5

NOTES FOR THE LADIES. [BY THE AUCKLAND " STAR'S" LONDON CORRESPONDENT.]

Dolmans of chestnut plush, lined with gold satin, are very popular, and can bo worn with almost any toilette. Satin-faced silks are worn still, especially Rhadamcs, Morveilloux, and tho very best qualities of Duchcsso satins, as well as sundry avmuros. Moth-infested articles should be saturated in naphtha or benzine. It injures nothing, and kills the destroyer. I\ ory may bo restored to its former whiteness (when not stained) by cleaning with ! powdered burnt pumico-&tono and wate-, and then placing it under glasses in the sun's rays. Bengaline, an article much resembling faille, but with tho weft of wool, replaces the ottoman of last .season, and is undoubtedly the best silken material for draping; for no matter how it may bo crushed, it very seldom shows marks of pressure, or, in fact, any creases whatever. Tho spotted and .striped washing zephyrs make very ladylike dresses co nbined v ith plain zephyrs. All the best ones have the spots cmbroidorcd and well raised. Navy blue grounds, with pale blue spots, are much admired in this material, used as a polonaiso over a skirt of plain, trimmed with killings of the two colours _ Many of the spring woollens are very peculiar ; some are woven in imitation of cross-stitch, others look as if quilted ; these arc called the "grandmcre" fabrics, and arc certainly more suited to winter wear. Ribbons for chapeaux are made in the same stylo, with raised ve^et designs, of which tho 01 iginals are to be found in the poultry-yard ; flowers, fruit, butterflies, and birds aiu aIL imitated ith equal fidelity to nature, and are certainly prettier than liens and chickens. The ribbons are bright and gay, and just -what is required in colouring lor spring chapeau\, which always seem desirous of emulating the increasing brightness of the sun. Figured Aelvcts are replacing figured silks, and velvet designs upon tafletas glace grounds arc already very much appreciated. Very stylish are those small ellects in velvet upon satin grounds, with a .stripe of the .same shade "as the velvet. Another handsome design is a plum, with a leaf attached, upon a satin ground, the edging of tho leaf being of a very bright shade, in contrast to the giound. One of the most curious freaks of fashion in New Vovk is an importation fro n France. It is called diner en tele. All guests receiving a card with the words en fete added are bound to come with their heads infancy costume. An old gentleman can go as Doge of Venice, Lord High Chancellor, English barrister, Pope, or King ; a lady as Marie Stuait, Atmoot Biittany, Maiie Antoinette, Mary of Burgundy, Claude of Franco, or Nun. Tho choice illimitable. No further demand is made lor fancy dress. Ah a rule, only two materials arc used for one dress, but exception? are made- when onomatciial is broche, especially if this is a broche velvet on a satin or ottoman giound. In this case plain velvet matching tho design, or plain satin or ottoman corresponding w ith the ground of tho broche, are frequently combined w ith the cashmere and broche. Toilettes, in which the .skirt is of broche, have all the remaining portions made of velvet or satin, or ottoman, both fabrics matching the broche in colour. As an instance we quote a visiting toilette of which the skirt is composed of ruby broche, in a design of velvet apples and leaves on a satin ground, with pleated breadths of ruby satin at the back ; three narrow pleating.s of the .satin boidciing the skirt. A drapery of satin is gathered on to the edge of the satin corsage, and kept down by a wide band of ruby velvet crossing tho skirt diagonally. On each side of the pleated satin black breadths are robings or panels of ruby velvet, and the collar and parements aic also of ruby velvet. The fashion of turning the hair up from the nock makes tho wearing of rufl's or high collars a necessity. It is a good plan to make a straight all-round collar of velvet, and edge it w ith laco plaiting or lissc frill- \ ing. The Tudor collars are being worn in Paris, and arc becoming, also the Mcdicis. Tho former name is applied to tho rufl's for evening, which arc worn w ith square-cut bodices, turned downwards at the back and sides, but in the Medici period they also wore a close \\ ido rufF to the high bodices. This is one of the minutiae of dress which woman should adapt to her own requirements. With the sunny days that have lately favoured us, spring toilettes have made their appearance earlier than would have been the case had tho rough and cold w inds usual in March prevailed. Both in and outdoor dresses are fresh looking, and in very good taste ; tho assemblage ot Wo or three materials in one costume gives scope to taste and to economical arrangement, and many of our readers who, relying on our powers of prophecy, took our advice as to the purchase of " short lengths " during the sales of last season, find their purses considerably benefited thereby. Among less expensive materials are some twilled silk serges with velvet spots, stars, or single flowers of medium size. These make charming day dresses combined with plain silk serge, tho same colour, and plain cachemire ; and for cooler days, polonaises or draperies of this velvet-spotted serge aro worn over plain velvet or velveteen. Shot twilled silk serges, with patterns of single flowers, spots, or stars in velvet, aro employed in tho same mannci very effectively ; indeed, shot materials, plain, or merely as grounds to various designs, will be very fashionably worn. Among colours this season drabs and slates carry the palm. Moulllon is a bright shade of bufF, resembling the colour of the wool upon the back of a sheep ; llamas, eland, antelope, chimpanzee, squirrel, moth, dove— tho names of which will alone give an idea of the various tones commonly and collectively called drabs. Among the slates wo have pelican, dynamite, gull, wongawonga (an Australian bird), vulcan, and marabout. Punch is tho latest blue, a little more slatey in tone than tho electric of last season. A very dark bluo is called kaleegc, after tho bird of that name j sheldrake is a novelty in the peacock family ; tho bright reds arc well to the fore —coxcomb is a very bright blue shade of cardinal, poppy turkey, electus, Baker Pasha, and mulberry, a rich-looking dark red. Green is not so fashionable as bronze, under which heading there is a large variety ; tho favourites aro autumn, a shade to imitate tho magnificent tono of the leaves of the trees at tho fall of the year, lizard, boa, python, anaconda, Lebanon, and Cypress. For violet there appears to be a revival. The new browns are all of a brighter tint than those of last year. Tragopan, a pleasant shade, monal, lion, goura, spaniel, and jackal. Among the nondescript shades generally designated artistic, we have Saturn, syrens, Urania, Pandora, somnus, all mineral tones. Brick reds, such as Arab, pastor, tartarus, and ergane. Gold-browns, like midas, Cadorcous, and lastly, a few shades of a greenish hue, cockateel, grass, parrakeet, and lichen,