NEW GUINEA. Murray Island. New Guinea, Dec. 6, 1883.

Te Aroha News, Volume I, Issue 33, 19 January 1884, Page 6

NEW GUINEA. Murray Island. New Guinea, Dec. 6, 1883.

A Perilous Situation. We returned by the western side of the river with the ebb tide, in the light of a full moon. We grounded several times on sandbanks, but managed with poles and oars to get into deep water again. Finally, however, we stuck, the tide rushing past us like a sluice, driving us further on to the bank. At daylight next morning we awoke to find ourselves on the top of a sand bank 3ft high, which stretched away on all sides, leaving a fine hard level sandbank. We jumped overboard and walked about for an hour or so till the tide began to flow again, which it did with amazing rapidity. When it began to rise around our little craft, the rush of the current was terrible. I was afraid of the chain breaking as the boat slewed round to the tide. We had moved the position of our anchor and taken every precaution we could, so there was nothing to do but to wait patiently and be ready for action. After a little healthy excitement we were once more afloat, making the best of our long oai's and little dingy to get through the passage between the two islands near Sumaiut, in which we succeeded, and found the Hope had arrived before us by another route.

A Reformed Tribe. I landed at once with some of our party. This if the place where on a former visit the people showed signs of an attack. There was great excitement on that occasion, an arrow being fired that stuck in a tree over my head, and our interpreter deserting us. Now, as before, there was a crowd on the bank awaiting our arrival. Many of them had been to our central station at Port Spicer, and so were well acquainted with our peaceful intentions. We were well received, had an interesting meeting with the people, and, to their apparent satisfaction, formed a mission station there, they readily giving a piece of ground for the teacher's house. My plan is to locate a teacher and a young .student at each station; the latter being changed about every two months, so that this forms an important part of their education, and keeps up the enthusiasm in the institution. We tilled our boat with bundles of sago, which the people were most anxious to barter for tomahawks, knives, calicoes, and tobacco. By this means we supply the institution here largely with food. Again we went down the river, with the tide beating against the wind, and again stuck on a sandbank, where we remained till the following tide, reaching Port Spicer next morning about seven o'clock. We spentthat day arranging matters connected m ith the station and our vessel, and left next morning for Kaiwai.

Visit to a village of Fighting Men. Kaiwai is one of the villages which Captain L'cnnyfather, of Q.G.S. Pearl, burnt on account of the mas&acrc of the crew of a vessel (seventeen persons) wrecked near the mouth of the river, in which the Kaiwaians were the leaders. It is the largest village in the Fly River \\ ith which we are acquainted, is immediately opposite Port Spicer, and distinctly seen from the mission house there. Captain Pennyfather told me that he considered there could not be less than 1,000 fighting men in the village or town of Kaiwai. They are feared by the natives all along the coast to the west as far as Saibai. Many of them have been to Port Spicer since my last visit, and seemed pleased when the teachers told them that I was going to pay them a visit and locate a teacher amongst them. Knowing the treacherous character of these people, and feeling that they might take revenge upon the first white man in their power, I confess to a little anxiety as our boat grounded, and we jumped on to the sandbank by the side of the river, where a great crowd of naked savages were standing. Of course we explained to them that we had nothing to do with the burning of their village and i shooting their friends ; that \\ c were men of peace, and hoped to prevent villages being j burnt, and crews being massacred, taking care to impress- upon their minds that the latter would certainly lead to the former. I don't think there is much fear of their decorating their houses with the skulls of another shipwrecked crew. They find that European skulls cost too much. The tow n of Kaiwai is situated on the bunks of a stream which the natives say run? to the sea on the opposite side, and this stream about equally divides the town. 1 have taken a photograph of a portion of one half, seen from the place where we landed ; also, a photo, of the natives on the other side standing near the landing-place. There were no women or children to be seen ; and, although the crowd of men who received us were all unarmed, I noticed that all the houses near seemed full of men, probably well armed and ready for action at a moment's notice. After a lengthy and pleasant interview, in which I endeavoured to assure them that we were their friends and protectors, I asked them if they were willing to receive a teacher to live amongst them, who would teach them what was good. There seemed to be a general consent, and as they could think of nothing better than giving their enemies a good thrashing, their first request was that the teachers should accompany them to make war upon their enemies to the eastward ! They seemed greatly astonished at my photographic apparatus. Some of their friends having been to Murray Island explained to them what it could do ; an explanation which wonderfully magnified the powers of the instrument, I have no doubt. Having taken the views and made them a small present, they returning the compliment in sago, we leturned to the boat.

A Pleasing Sign of Confidence. As soon as we had all got in and were ready to start the boat was suddenly rushed, as many jumping in as it would float, and a crowd standing in the water around us, shouting and gesticulating in great excitement. It is just at such times as these that serious collisions take place between the traders and the natives. It was evident on a moment's reflection that the noise and excitement were not connected with any attempt to seize our boat and secure our persons and property, for the men were unarmed. It turned out that nearly the whole crowd wanted to go to Murray Island with us, and those around the boat were simply angry that their friends in the boat had got the advantage of them. The five natives who had been here from Sumaiut had naturally given a good report of their visit, hence the desire of so many to go. In vain we tried to persuade them to leave the boat. To pueh out into the river with Such a crowd on board was not to be thought of. At last, after considerable delay and endless talk, we succeeded in getting all but the three to leave quietly, telling them that some more should go next trip. The incident was pleasing, as it showed their entire confidence in us.

Fear and Flight of Natives. I now determined to visit the next largest village which Captain Pennyfather had burnt, which is situated near the mouth of the river on the east side. None of our party had visited this village, nor had any of the people been to Mibu. At this village, as at Dudi (the one that we visited 30

miles up the rivet), the natives were evidently much afraid,, And had little confidence in us. It was Completely deserted, the doors attd windows of the houses being blocked up, and bunches of green grass and bush tied to the posts to indicate their desire for peace. Dogs were howling in the bush, and pigs were running about the village with their bristles erect in evident terror. A few natives met us at the landing place, with whom we walked across an extensive sand flat, and through the village. We oxplained to them that we were missionaries, men of peace, and urged them to call their neighbours. Only a few joined us, however, and to them we made known our object. They expressed their willingness to receive a teacher, and I promised to locate one next trip. This will make six mission stations on the Fly Kiver, which will be sufficient for a time. From these centres the good news will travel in all directions in the vicinity of this great river, and in* deed far beyond it. Here we separated from the Mibu mission party ; they returning to Port Spicer in the Hope, whilst we steered across the mouth of the river westward to Bampton, which is t\\ elve or fifteen miles distant. Before we reachedthe extensive sandbank in the middle of the river, the tide had ebbed so much that we were unable to cross it, and so were obliged to anchor and wait for the next tide. In beating about the river we find that, as a rule, the deep-water channels are near the shore. First, there is a row of islands of considerable size (from one to four miles long, and from half-a-inile to three miles wide) in the middle of the river, giving it somewhat the appearance of two rivers. Again, in the middle of these there are generally extensive sandflats, which are dry at low water.

A Widely Different Reception. Crossing the sandbank at high water, we proceeded towards Parem (Bampton), which we reached near sundown, when the tide was at its lowest ebb. To get to the village we had to walk about three miles over a sandflat and through a mangrove swamp, although at high water we can take the Venture close to the houses, as I did on a former visit. Being anxious not to lose another day, and rather enjoying the pro spect of the walk lifter being confined to our little craft, we pulled in our dingy to the nearest point and commenced our march. Over the sand and mudfiat was not so bad, but when we came to thft mangrove swamp it was far from agreeable. However, it was getting dark, and there was nothing for it but to press on through mud and water amongst entangled roots and fallen trees. Having crossed the swamp we came upon a large comparatively clear space near the village, in the centre of uhich stood a handsome young Papuan, dressed in a red-and-white cricketing cap, blue-and-red jersey, and trousers rolled up to the knees, with a fowling-piece under his arms in true sportsman style I wondered who he could be, and when we drew near found it was Hnawia, one of the church members from Saibai. The teachers from Saibai, Eatau, an* 1 Ture-ture had airivedin their boat to visit their collea-^ies in the Fly River. As we were going to their stations they returned with us. The teacher at Bampton has got his house up, 2 m which wo slept that night, having a long talk uith the people, who seemed much pleased at this unexpected visit. As soon as our arrival was known there great shouting through the village — men, >vomen, and children coming running from all parts. The seed has clearly taken root here, watered by the blood of four martyrs (two Lifu teachers and their wives), and will, ere long, we hope, bring forth good fruit. Early next morning it was, of course, low water again ; but to save time we returned as >\ c came, and started with the tide for Katau, which we reached at sunset We had plenty of pilots on board to take us through the narrow passage over the bar and into the beautiful quiet harbour, formed by an island situated at the. mouth ot the river.

A Savage and His Son.— A Contrast. We found our old friend Maino, the chief, sitting, as usual, cross-legged on a mat in front of hi.s house to receive us, looking as dirty, and as ugly, and as great a savage as ever. It is now twelve years since Mr Murray and 1 first visited this old heathen, our first mission station on the mainland being formed at his village. He has been our triend all along, although lie has a weakness for cutting off the heads of his enemies, and has hitherto declined to embrace Christianity, because its precepts forbade him this pleasure. He is now, however, getting old and unable to pursue his favourite sport — skull-hunting. His son, who is a fine, tall young fellow, is a good, earnest local preacher, the teacher's best friend and supporter Theyoung people, who are very numerous, aregrowing up attaching themselves to the teacher. Although this was our first mission station on the mainland, our South Sea Island teachers, being unable to remain, did very little for the elevation of the people. Now that they have a teacher who is accustomed to the climate, from our Papuan seminary here, we may reasonably hope for progress. The people have evidently worked well since my last visit to show their attachment to their teacher, for they have built for him (Ami) one of the largest and best teachers' houses in the whole mission. On the following morning we started for an inland town of which I had heard a good deal, and where I was anxious to place a teacher. We could scarcely have been more unfortunate in the day,as therehad just been a thunderstorm, and, for three hours before we started the rain fell in torrent s*.5 *. However, the journey was on my programme, and I saw no sufficient reason for crossing it out. It may interest some to know that is the point whence the mythical " Captain Lawson " commenced his wonderful travels in New Guinea ! Our party consisted of about twenty, with Maino's son as guide and interpreter. We were prepared to walk, wade, or swim. There was not much to be feared from the people, except that they would run aw ay on our approach, which we endeavoured to prevent by sending a messenger ahead.

Alligator Adventures. Just before we started a large alligator was seen on the opposite side of the river, about 200 yards off. The monster had about half his body out of the water, nibbling away at something on the bank. A rifle bullet struck him on the head, causing him to spring up and fall backwards into the river. This reminds me of the first alligator we saw when the Ellengowan anchored at Port Spicer. We had just arrived, and were admiring the harbour with its banks of stemless palms, when we saw a large alligator drifting down the middle of the harbour with the tide, with his head half out of the water. A shot was fired at him, the bullet entering the water close to his head; he ducked, and when opposite the vessel raised just his eye above the water for a few seconds to take a good survey of this new phenomenon in those waters. We should like to have put a bullet into it, but before we were ready he seemed to have come to the conclusion that" it was safer below, so we saw no more of him. Behind the village of Katau there is but a narrow belt of mangrove, passing which we came to fine open country studded with plantations, all well enclosed with strong

and close bamboo fences, nearly 6ft high, to preserve them from the numerous wild pigs, kangaroos, and cassowaries. Indeed, scarcely had we left tho mangrove belt when we started a kangaroo on our track. Hnawia justified the opinion that l had formed of his love of sport, for no sooner was the kangaroo seen than he bounded after it, hopping over the long wet grass very much like the animal he was pursuing. We heard a shot and waited for the result. He soon returned "like a drowned rat," with his red waistcloth in tatters, but without the kangaroo ; still he was smiling and shaking his head knowingly at the narrow escape the animal had had, and seemed to be explaining to his friends that the ball had passed through the kangaroo's ear, but that not being a vital part, it had escaped. We walked about six miles through fine country, in which it is difficult to find a stone. It is deep, rich, alluvialsoil, covered chiefly with long grass and scrub, with here and there some very fine timber. There are miles of plantations, and it is probable that the plains through which we passed have been cleared by the natives for that purpose, for the bits of forest through which our road lay are heavily timbered, and there is abundance of water. We crossed two arms of the Katau lliver, over which the natives have constructed a very good bamboo bridge about 100 feet in length. In fact, there is far too much water in this part of New Guinea ; but if the land was drained by digging trenches, as the natives do near their villages, I have no doubt that it would be considered amongst the best of sugargrowirig land. The wild nutmeg seems to indicate that spices that have failed in Singapore might flourish here.

A Dirty and Diminutive Tribe. When within about two miles of the town, we began to meet natives of the place, and from that to our destination the number increased. The last mile was the worst part of the road, being through a swamp. It appears that the people used to live on the opposite side, but being exposed to attacks from the coast tribes, they removed their houses to the place where the town now stands. There was a crowd awaiting our arrival at the entrance to the town, but the moment they caught sight of me they lied in all directions. We were received by the two chiefs and principal people in an open space surrounded by houses, and some cocoanuts and bananas placed before us. I made them a small present, and explained the object of my visit. I told them that we were men of peace, and that 1 had come to place a teacher amongst them to tell them about the true God and good things ; that their enemies had received teachers, and therefore they need not fear any more attacks from them ; that we wished them all to live in peace and learn the (Jospel of Peace, which the teacher had come to proclaim. They not only expressed their willingness to receive a teacher, but proposed to return to the site of their former settlement and live there with him, which is nearer the planting ground. I expressed my delight at this Migge&tion, as it will place their township two miles nearer Katau, and avoid the necessity of crossing that disagreeable swamp to reach it. During our meeting groups of women and children were peering at us through the trees and from behind the houses, and when we walked through the town (for a town I may call it, having counted eighty-five houses, some of which were (JOft. long by 24ft. broad), men, women, andchildren stood at the corners of the streets and peeped at us from behind the houses, uttering exclamations of wonder. Few, if any of them, had seen a white man before, and they were quite amazed at my size, they being a diminutive race. When we stood for a few minutes I was immediately surrounded by a group of admiring and wondering spectators, who seemed to measure me with their eyts from my feet upwards, and then exclaim ; but none had the courage to come near enough to touch me. I was thus gaved from the disagreeable handling which I have been accustomed to receive on thecoastand S.E. Peninsula. The moment I moved, the women and childien fled in all directions in apparent terror. They are an inferior race to the coast tribes, and speak quite a different language. They are, as a rule, shoit, thin, and dirty ; live in inferior houses which are built, not as the coast tribes, on posts, but on the ground and more like shed"*, the sides being of bark and bamboos, thatched with the usual pandanus leaves. The interior of their houses, like their persons, are filthy. The trophies of the chase hang about in all directions in the shape of bones of the wild pig, cassowary, and kangaroo. I did not see any skulls. I suppose it is the skulls of these inland tribes that chiefly adorn the houses of the coast people. When we returned a large party accompanied us for a couple of miles to the place where they propose forming their new township. A very suitable place it is.

Trip up the Katau River. We arranged to make this trip in a canoe and the little dingy that we carry on the deck of the Venture. Fancy me in a pyjama suit and big straw hat, sitting in state in a dingy, with a box of sardines and a few biscuits, and a couple of cocoanuts in the stern, my fowling-piece between my knees, gliding along this beautiful winding river, admiring the rich, dense, and endless variety of its tropical foliage; the graceful creepers trailing in the stream ; the huge vines encircling the trees like great boaconstrictors ; stemless palms ; magnificent tree-ferns ; immense bamboos ; large cane and tall trees, the home of beautiful birds. Whenever one was seen paddles and tongues were still, and we glided on with the tide to get within range. In this, however, we did not succeed so often as we wished. I shot in this way a beautiful bird about the size of a large pigeon. It had a long beak, white breast, reddish back, and wings the colour of the Paradise siggiana.and a black head, on the crown of which were three fine white feathers about lOin long. Forthefirst six miles there are mud and mangrove ; the land seems low. After that the banks become higher, plantations appear, and natives at work on them. These were all friendly, knowing who we were. We had the same interpreter as the day before, these island tribes speaking the same language. As we passed along a place on the bank was pointed out where a native woman had recently been caught by an alligator. She was going down to drink when the alligator suddenly caught her and dragged her under in the sight of her friends, who saw no more of her. After a three hours' hard pull we tied our canoe to a tree and walked two miles through splendid country on the banks of the river to the village. The people and houses were much the same as those visited the day before, although fewer in number. There are several other villages, near which I had not time to visit, as we wished to get back before sunset. The teacher and chief from Ture-ture walked inland and met us at this point. We were well received by the natives, who were expecting us, and who gladly accepted a teacher, promising to build him a house at once. He will leave his wite at Ture-ture for a time.

Astonished Native*. There were considerable excitement, wonder, and fear manifested by the natives at the village, as at the one we visited the day before. Being small men, they were very much astonished at my height, I was

much amused when we were walking back to the boat by one of our escort immediately in front of me, who seemed much concerned about the safety of my head amongst the branches of the trees as we passed along. Sometimes he would stop under a branch that I could scarcely touch with ray outstretched arm, and looking and pointing upwards would tell me to take care of my head ! When we reached the canoe and dingy we found that the tide had not yet turned, so we had some refreshment before starting, -which proved intensely interesting to the natives. When the tin of sardines was opened there was a great shout. Fish are scarce in the bush. They had probably never seen so many at one time before — certainly not in so small a compass, and as each sardine disappeared all but the tai^ there was an exclamation. They stood around and peered at us from all sides. When wo gave them a biscuit they smelt it, tasted it, and then passed it on. Not so those who had accompanied us from Katau. It was amusing to see them laughing at the ignorance and simplicity of their bush friends, they themselves being but a step in advance. We returned delighted with our visit, reaching the mouth of the river at sunset.

Mission Stations Established. A thickly-wooded island, about a mile in circumference, is situated at the entrance to the river, which forms a very safe and pretty little harbour for small vessels. This is now the port for four of }ur mission stations. From Port Spicer in the Fly River we reach five others, and from Saibai three more. We have now twelve mission stations in that part of New Guinea, including Saibai and Dauan, where the mission was commenced, which are close to the mainland, and have been used as stepping-stones to it. Three of the most central stations are occupied by Lifu teachers, the rest by the young men with whom I commenced the institution here five or six yeai's ago. I have been anxious to secure these different points simultaneously so as to prevent jealousies and war. It depends upon the villages now occupied by our teachers whether there shall be war or peace in this part of New Guinea, and there is every prospect of the latter now that the mission stations are established. These skull-hunters will, we trust — by the blessing of God upon the teaching of these simple, earnest, good men — learn war no more. We commenced our return voyage from Katau, intending to call at our newlyformed station — Ugar — in Torres Strait, on our way, but this proved by far tin* ino^t formidable, unpleasant, and dangerous part of ou r voyage. It was a dead beat to windward , and the weather, which had been so calm that we had often to pull the Venture with oars, became, after our first day out, very boisterous. During the first day and night we beat up from Katau through the Missionary Pass, and by the following night reached Ugar, after a very rough, wet, and altogether disagreeable passage. In the morning I had a long pull over the reef in the dingy, and was received on the beach by the teacher Papi, and the chief and people. The teacher's house is finished, and they are about to commence their church. They are a small community of superior natives, living in one of the most fertile islands in Torres Strait, and appear very happy with their teacher, who is a quiet good man, adapted to the place.

The Return Voyage.— A Perilous Night. Starting with the tide, we hoped to reach Darnley before dark, but were doomed to bitter disappointment, not arriving till noon next day. In all my experience of boating (and few missionaries have had more) I never spent such a night at sea, and I hope I may never spend another like it. When within about six miles of Darnley it began to blow and rain in true tropical style. The squalls were very heavy, and unfortunately we were in the " big ship channel " through Torres Strait, to the north of Darnley, with the heavy seas from the gulf rolling in upon us past Bramble Quay. We reefed our sails with difficulty, and tried to make headway. Tack after tack, but no nearer the land. The sun went down, and left us to battle with the elements in the dark. No one but those who know something of boating can form anything like an adequate idea of our position. Fifteen of us in a bout 30ft, long by Xft. broad, xoith a cargo of sago in t/ie hold and a dingy on deck. To watch the waves on a dark, stormy night from the deck of a large vessel, with a feeling of security and a comfortable cabin below, is a very different thing from sitting on the deck of the Venture, holding on to the rigging amidst blinding rain and spray and a howling wind ; not looking dowi upon the great black, white - crested waves as they go hissing past on a dark night, but really looking vp at them — and that, you may be &m-e, in no very poetical mood, especially as they frequently break over our little craft. My great fear was lest, considering the great strain upon the masts, rigging, sheets, etc., something should carry away. Slowly, wearily, most anxiously the night wore on. Never did I long so much for daybreak. We were wet and cold, and hungry. Had not been able to make a fire for twenty-four hours. It came at last, but slowly as any othermorning, notwithstanding our anxiety. Finding ourselves near a sandbank, we made for it, anchored our boat to leeward, took some firewood and water on shore, and made some tea. Shot and cooked a dozen birds, and after a good meal started for Darnley, which we reached in a few hours. There we spent a day and night to recruit. I need hardly say how thankful we were to reach this point in safety. Thence to Murray Island we were amongst known reefs, on and behind which we could anchor, and, if anything happened, fall back upon Darnley. We usod to think the passage between Darnley and Murray very intricate and dangerous, as most strangers do, but there are really two good passages for large vessels. Boats like the Venture find the reef? very convenient. We anchored on one for the night, the sea being quite smooth, although there was a good breeze. We thought it would be deep enough to keep uh afloat at low water, but at midnight we were aroused by the vessel bumping. Our business was to see that she did not settle down on any stones. A native jumped overboard and removed them all around our craft, and having made her bed we all went to sleep. We reached Murray Island next day, and found all well. Already the Venture haB returned to the Fly and Katau Rivers and Saibai with supplies and another band of helpers. Thus we are opening up this Thames of New Guinea to the blessings of Christianity and Commerce.

It is proposed to hold a World's Fair at San Francisco in 1887. Quarrelling avails nothing. Even the forty thieves came to grief by jars. The Primitive Methodist Conference has started its sittings in Dunedin. Mummies are the only well-behaved persons now left in Egypt. The Governor has been visiting Hon. G. McLean, Otago. "No more reflections, please," said the looking-glass after it had tumbled downstairs. The Minister of Lands intends visiting Otaga shortly. The pen is mightier than the sword, but an old cheese is the " mitey "-est of the lot.