“ SUN ” SERVICE STATION

Sun (Auckland), Volume IV, Issue 1018, 8 July 1930, Page 6

“ SUN ” SERVICE STATION

'■pilL ‘Moturdeio section of '/'/»• Sun includes to its service to readers a Jt Queries and Answers Department, the object of wbicb !s to give accurate Information regarding mechanical and touring subjects. Whatever the particular puzzle may be In either diagnosing irritating troubles or motoring Information of any kind. "Headlight' will endeavour to help, or refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts Id their respective lines All communications must oe accompanied oy the inquirer's name and address (not for publication), and 6ent to TUB SUN u Service Station, ilctordom.** TUB SUN Auckland. Answers will appear weekly lo this col u in n.

“Owner.”—Can you toll me how to take up the main bearings of a “Rover 9,” 1926 model? Can they be adjusted by taking sump off, or will the whole engine have to bo taken down?

In the 1926 model Rover 9. the bearings are not adjustable, and must be renewed when worn. To do this the engine must be removed from the frame and dismantled. The rear bearing is not accessible, from the back of the engine, as the flywheel is not removable.

E.R.—l have a Ford, Model A, purchased new, which has done 12,000 miles, and, up to the last month given no trouble, but lately has developed a noise in the clutch (which is a multiple disc). With the engine running and the car at a standstill, if I let the clutch in quickly, a distinct knocking sound is heard (not to be confused with the plates ringing). If I let it in slowly, it is r.%arly silent. With engine off, on opei'vig the inspection cover, I found there was some ploy in the clutch shaft drive, but on letting the clutch pedal in again slowly, the shaft was O.K. Ford Agent No. 1 said everything was all right—it was just the habits of the multiple disc type. Agent 2 said ho thought I wanted new plates. If No. 1 is correct, and I have the job done, I've-wasted my money. Can you or any reader who has perhaps had similar trouble kindly inform me?

Without making an examination of the* clutch, it may be unwise to offer a definite diagnosis of the cause of the noise coming from it, but, however, it is fairly safe to assume that the knocking sound which is heard while the engine is idling is emanating from the clutch assembly, the plates of which have become slightly worn after having been operated over the mileage mentioned. Il ? this assumption is correct, no possible damage can result from the cause of the noise, nor should it be necessary at this stage to make any replacements. But, however, if the noise is so irritating that you feel something should be done, then by replacing the master clutch plate, which is located at the extreme rear of the clutch assembly, the noise can be eliminated.

C.D.—l have a 1928 model Austin Wasp 7 h.p. sports car and lately I have experienced the following troubles without being able to find a remedy for them. If when driving about 20 miles an hour the car hits a small bump, the front wheels wobble so much that I have to stop the car and start oft* again in first gear. I have to do Ahis on each occasion. I have tightened up the adjustment on the steering column until the wheel can hardly be turned, but I still get the wobble. The king pins are O.K. There is a little

play in the distance rod which connects the two wheels, but a mechanic states that that would not give a wobble as bad as I get. As the trouble started quite suddenly without any warning I am at loss to account for it. The steering box is tight on the chassis. When driving at night with all lights on full, at a speed of approximately 15 miles an hour the amp. meter shows a slight discharge and the lights show only a fair light, immediately I accelerate and the amp. meter shows a charge, the lights flare up and I get a real good light. But as soon as I let the revs, die down again the lights go dull and the horn won’t blow. I bad the battery tested and it was O.K. and fully charged, and works the starter all right. I have tightened up all connections and all seem O.K. Would a faulty cut-out cause erratic lights? When the generator is charging should the points of the cut-out be closed or open? What is the correct charging rate for this make of ear? Where would I look for the trouble? Docs Benzol do any harm to a car using it straight, or should it be mixed with another spirit and in what proportions? Hoping that you will be able to help me and thanking you in anticipation.

(a) Jack up the front of the car, remove both front wheels, loosen the nuti holding the front axle radius arms then set the arms out from the top (an easy method of doing this is to place the large shifting spanner over the top of the radius arm close behind the front axle beam, then force the handle toward the ground). Holding the spanner in this position lock up the nuts previously loosened. This has the effect of giving the wheels more castor. Make sure that the front spring “U” bolts are tight and that the front wheels toe-in l-Bin. (b) Evidently there is a bad connection between the generator and the battery, either dirty terminals or broken wires, (c) Faulty cut-out in your case would not cause the trouble. (d) The cut-out points are closed when the generator is charging. (e) The correct charging rate is from 8 to 10 amps. (f) Benzol would not do any harm but I should recommend mixing with a high-grade spirit at 50-50.

J.M.S. writes as .follows: “I see that one of your subscribers is troubled with broken axles in his truck. Please tell him to try this: Take ono of his axles to Price’s foundry, or some engineering firm, and get a pair made a fraction of an inch bigger in the spline as probably the spline has woyn with the broken axles, also be sure and put the pair in together because when one axle breaks the sudden jar always strains the opposite one. He will also find that getting axles made in New Zealand is far cheaper than the imported axles.