“SUN” SERVICE STATION

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 782, 1 October 1929, Page 6

“SUN” SERVICE STATION

fT>H.E “Motordom” section of The Stn JL Queries and Answers Departmer accurate information regarding mecha ever the particular puzzle may be in or motoring information of any kind, “ refer the point to men who are rec respective lines. All communications must be accc address (not for publication), and j Motyrilom/* THE SUN, A-iicJcland. column. “Walter B. M —My car, a Ford, lias recently developed a sharp knock in the engine which has baffled detection, although tappets* timing and so on have been carefully checked. Have you any idea of what causes knocks in Fords ? . ' * * * There are about ten reasons for knocks in any make of car, not only Fords, and anyway you don’t state whether yours is the new model or the old model. However, as you seem to have looked at two of the most likely causes, it would seem that a garageman should give the engine a good looking over. “Chap."—Would you please settle an argument about the opening and closing of valves on the Amilcar. Is it true that the exhaust valve closes and the inlet valve opens at top dead centre ? • * * I usually keep clear of arguments about advanced technical points, especially between two such obviously wellread mechanics, but in this case I am 1 happy to say that I do know the answer. It is—Yes. A.R.G.—The gloss has just come off my car and I am thinking .of fixing it up myself. Would you tell me the correct way to do so? * * * Remove any rusty spots with sandpaper dipped in vinegar and kerosene. Build up bare spots with primer filler, primer and paint. Clean whole surface by thorough washing, then wipe with petrol to remove grease and polish with dry cloth. Varnish can then be applied in dust-proof surroundings.

in tncludes in Us service to readers a nt, the object of which is to give anical and touring subjects. Whati either diagnosing irritating troubles “Headlight’ will endeavour to help, or cognised automobile experts in their ompanied oy the inquirer's name and sent to TH E SUN “Service Station, Answers will appear weekly in this Try to do whole job in one temperature. Allow plenty of time to dry and then harden with water sprayed softly and often. P.R.P.—I have often seen some interesting hints in your motor news, and would like now to ask for some myself. I have a Ford which needs decarbonising pretty badly judging by the valves, and I would like to know how to take the head off. Also how to replace same without damage to timing, valves, etc. * * * To remove the cylinder head of the model A Ford engine, it is necessary to detach the distributor head by lifting it out of position bodily after the locking screw at the right-hand side of the block has been slacked off and the cylinder head nut holding down the ignition cable has been removed. It is not necessary to make any provision for refitting the distributor in connection with the timing, as it can only be replaced in one position on account of the driving veins on the distributor shaft being offset. After the ■ remaining cylinder head nuts have been removed together with the water outlet connection, the head may be removed without further difficulty. As regards adjusting the valves after reseating, we would advise that, on account of the cams being of the constant ramp type, great care must be exercised when setting the clearance to see that the cam shaft is in the correct position for each valve, and for this reason we do not consider it advisable for other than qualified mechanics to make these adjustments, for if they are not correctly done, the result will be noisy tappets, insufficient clearance and bad engine performance generally.