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“SUN” SERVICE STATION

THE “JUotordom'' section of The Su n includes in its service to readers a Queries and Answers Department, the object of which is to give accurate information regarding .mechanical and touring subjects. Whatever the particular puzzle may be in either diagnosing Irritating troubles or motoring information of any kind, “Headlight*’ will endeavour to help or refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts In their respective lines. All communications must be accompanied by the Inquirer's name and address (not for publication), and sent to THE SUN “Service Station Motordom," THE SUN. Auckland. Answers will appear weekly in this column

Q.E.D. —Will you please answer the following questions in next Tuesday’s Sun: (1) I have a 1922 Ford roadster, which steers too easily, and cramps occasionally. The spindles are good, and all bolts are tight. Could you advise how to make it steer better? (2) What is the maximum speed of a 1926 four-cylinder Willy-Knight sedan? (1) It would appear that your front axle is tilted too far forward, and this will have to be altered at a garage. (2) 65 miles an hour. E.R. (Huntly).—l would be greatly indebted to you if in your next notes you could give me a line as to the probable cause of the following: I have an Essex Four which has developed the habit of dropping out of top gear when running on top, although the gears do not seem to be worn. * * » Possibly new thrust washers are needed to see that the top gear goes right home into mesh. If that is not sufficient, then a stronger spring should be fitted to the selector plunger. C.P.W. —Could you tell me what causes the needle of an ammeter to jump violently when the engine appears to be smoothly? A jumping needle on the ammeter is almost sure to be caused by a fault in the generator. Look at the commutator first. It is probably covered

with carbon from the brushes, and needs cleaning. If this does not cure the trouble, then probably one of the wiring terminals on the brushes is loose, and making a faulty contact. The solder which holds them occamelts in excessive heat, and partly breaks the connection. Examine these connections carefully. A.C.A.— Could you tell me anything about the different methods of repairing cracks in a cylinder block? omm There are three methods of repairing cracks in cylinder blocks: (1) By oxy-welding. This would necessitate the engine being dismantled, and although it would make the most satisfactory repair, it is the most expensive. (2) By chain studding. This method would also mean that the engine would have to bo dismantled, unless the crack is accessible to drill by hand-drill. The employed is as follows: Drill a 5-32 in hole at the end of the crack. Lap to 3-16 in, and screw in a metal thread screw. Chisel off screw flush, and drill next hole to overlap half the screw, so that the next screw is screwed into half the last one. Continue throughout the length of the crack. (3) By rusting. Drain the water out of circulating system. Take off hoses to radiator, and block up bottom hole. Mix a handful each of bluestone and sal ammoniac into four gallons of water, and boil. Pour into cylinder, and allow to stand for 24 hours. Drain out, and allow cylinders to dry. Repeat the process, and the job is done. This method is only satisfactory where the crack is only a fine one. UPPER CYLINDER LUBRICATION. “In reply to your correspondent “Buick” regarding his experience with an upper cylinder lubricant, it would be very interesting to know what brand of lubricant this was. It is the writer’s experience that an oil suitable for the upper cylinder must reach very rigid specifications. He has had experience of many so-called upper cylinder lubricants, but they have all failed to come up to expectations with the exception of Jay lubricant, which is spoken very highly of by every automobile manufacturers in the United States. The definite claim about the oil used by your correspondent, that it was noneombustible, would account for his trouble, because, on the contrary, an oil for such a purpose must be volatile; if it is non-burning, it must follow that it fractionises under the intense heat, and would leave a gummy residue, which would subsequently cause carbon. When testing or filling a storage battery, keep away from an open flame, as the escaping gases from the battery are inflammable.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/SUNAK19281218.2.29

Bibliographic details

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 540, 18 December 1928, Page 6

Word Count
754

“SUN” SERVICE STATION Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 540, 18 December 1928, Page 6

“SUN” SERVICE STATION Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 540, 18 December 1928, Page 6

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