“SUN” SERVICE STATION

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 408, 17 July 1928, Page 6

“SUN” SERVICE STATION

“Motordom” section of The Sun includes in its service to readers a Queries and Answers Department, the object of which is to give accurate information regarding mechanical and touring subjects. Whatever the particular puzzle may be in either diagnosing irritating troubles, or motoring information of any kind, “Headlight” will endeavour to help, or refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts in their respective lines. All communications must be accompanied by the inquirer’s name and address (not for publication), and sent to THE SUN “Service Station, Motordom,” THE SUN, Auckland. Answers will appear weekly in this column.

L.S. (Sutherland). —I am having a lot of trouble with the two front cylinders of my four, which is lubriated by a splash system. I find that when descending hills, with the throttle closed and the ignition on, the plugs of these cylinders get oily, and I often have to take them out and clean them before the car will run satisfactorily. This never occurs except after the descent of a hill, and the cause baffles me. It is a nuisance, and I would be grateful if you could tell me the cause and a possible remedy. * * * I surmise the car you describe is fairly old, as it reminds me of one I had. The reason for the front plugs oiling up is that there is some wear in pistons and cylinders, and the oil is sucked up past the rings. The oil in the front of the sump is probably deeper than normal because it is likely there are no baffle plates to check it running forward when the car is at a downhill angle. I found a good deal of relief from this trouble could be obtained by fitting an extra air valve of large capacity. If this is turned on when descending a hil it fills the combustion chambers with air, and thus prevents the vacuum from sucking up oil. E.A.R.—After behaving perfectly for a couple of years and 25,000 miles driving. the starter of my six-cylinder car seems tired. It will not give the engine more than half a turn, even wher warm, and cranking is a heavy job. The rest of the electrical system seem ; in good order, lights are bright, horn is strong, and ignition could not be better, so the battery must be all right. I had the starter motor cleaned a few months ago, and it behaved as usual until last week. I would welcome a suggestion as to the cause. * * * Obviously there is something loose or broken in your starter or connections which will not allow the current from the battery to do its work. Dirty or loose connections in the starter switch, or the terminal of the lead to the starter should be first looked for, and if the trouble is not located there, something similar must be wrong within the starter. A bare spot in the coil winding might allow the current to earth on metal, or badly seating brushes might be the fault. If the trouble is not apparent on the outside, have the starter examined for loose -r broken connection within. G.R.—Some of the pressure lubricators or grease nipples on the spring shackles of my car will not take the grease. They are Tecalamite system, and I have tried grease in liquid form (heated), also thin oil, but neither will work. The other nipples are 0.K., so the grease gun pressure must be all right. I would like some advice as to the best thing to do. You do not 6ay if the grease nipples force the grease back again in a stream, which sometimes happens. If this is the case, it is because the spring ball at the front of the nipple is out of seating, or the spring is broken. A new top-piece can easily be procured. If the nipples will not take lubrication at all, even when they are hot after a run, it must be because some dirt or grit is packed hard around the bearing. The only cure for this is to knock out the shackle pins and take the bearings out and clean them properly. But before you do this, try to get a mixture of kerosene and engine oil through the nipples as soon as you come home from a run, and the grease in the bearings may be soft and easily shifted. C.P.C.—Would you please tell me whether it is any advantage to the seller to have a car repainted, body tightened up and so on before trading it in to a second-hand dealer. * * * It is not advisable for owners to have extensive repairs carried out before submitting their cars to dealers to be traded in. This applies particularly to painting, tyre replacements and hood topping on touring cars: the cost of which is often out of all proportion to the market value of the car. In any case, and where necessary, this work can invariably be carried out by dealers much more satisfactorily.

Dealers are also in a better postion to know just what would be likely to be required in the way of painting colours and hood-topping material. It is advisable, however, and distinctly to owners’ advantage, to submit cars in a reasonably clean condition, particularly as regards engine and undercarriage. The appraiser is always favourably impressed by a car submitted in this state. The inference being that the car has been well cared for. It is also advisable to have the engine tuned to a reasonable degree of efficiency, and particularly to have th© starting and battery charging units functioning correctly. Clutch and brakes should be correctly adjusted Th© car will then give a good demonstration, and assist the appraiser with the difficult task of arriving at a fair and reasonable estimate of its re-sale value. A car is often traded in in such a neglected condition that the appraiser has been compelled to make quite a considerable allowance for anticipated repairs. It has been found, however, on closer inspection than was possible by the appraiser, to require only cleaning and minor adjustments to effect a vast improvement in its performance. Obviously this works out to the owners’ disadvantage, who are advised therefore to submit their cars in reasonably good condition. Query Editor.—At times. there are small leaks in my radiator which seem to disappear. Is this a sign of the radiator being clogged, as water gets very hot on a short run?—A.H., City. * * * Yes; this is an indication. C.P.S., City.—Could you please inform me through next Tuesday’s “Motordom”: (1) I have a 1922 WillysKnight; would like to know if I can take out the pistons and put in new rings without taking out the sleeves. (2) Will it change the timing of the motor? * * * (1) Yes. (2) No. E. C., Hamilton.—l have a Chandler 1923 touring. One mechanic says the clutch should not be oiled or never touched. Another fellow says it should. Which one is right? When you shove in on the clutch it grinds something terrible and is hard to shift gears. * * * Oil throwout bearing on clutch only; also have clutch adjusted. A. J. W. —I would be pleased if you would enlighten me on the following points: (1) The mileage from an imperial gallon one could expect from a 192 S Hudson brougham. (2) Whether it is advisable to use second-grade motor spirit—l m under the impression the makers recommend it. (3) The maximum and minimum speed on high gear? (4) Is it possible to shift gears either up or down without declutching, by revving motor? I will look for answers to the above queries in next Tuesday’s issue of The Sun, July 17, and thanking you in anticipation. * * * (1) Eighteen miles around town and 20 in the open country. (2) Yes. (3) Five m.p.li. to 70 m.p.li. or over. (4) It is possible, but the makers do not recommend doing so, as the act requires an accurate knowledge of the engine speeds. J. W. L. —Would you please state the number of miles a car would be required to run (say, at 20 m.p.h. and charging 10 amps) to restore to the battery the loss due to starting engine. Assume engine cold, but had been hand-cranked to circulate oil before using starting button. I’m not expecting anything but an approximate mileage. * * * Depends entirely on how much the starter was used. If engine started right away, the battery would be almost untouched, but if the starter was used hard for about five minutes, charging at 10 a'mps would restore the battery in from 10 to 15 minutes.