ARTIFICIAL SILK

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 312, 24 March 1928, Page 20

ARTIFICIAL SILK

In the days of our great grandmothers a silken gown was a coveted possession, but in these modern times science has brought within the reach of the majority not only the silk frock, but delicious silk wear of every description. Artificial silk may be roughly divided into two classes, namely, the viscose yarns, which are mainly derived from wood pulp (but in certain cases are made from cotton) and cellulose acetate yarns whose derivative is cotton. In the early stages of its development, artificial silk was principally used for its lustre. To-day, this sheen is by no means the main point aimed at, because experiment has proved that the uses to which artificial silk may be put are almost limitless. The introduction of artificial silk to the world has not only meant the building up of a now immense industry, but it has been instrumental in helping other trades considerably, notably that of woollen manufactured goods. Artificial silk to-day, is being combined with wool, cotton and pure silk with equal success. The yarns produced to date are distinctly varied, and so it has been possible to experiment and find which of the group is best assimilated by the particular stuff with which a combine is contemplated. It is very interesting to note some of the points which have come to light, not only in the experimental laboratories, but which have been proven by time and personal experience. Artificial silk is immensely strong and, therefore, its wearing capacity is great. For this reason, at least 75 per cent, of the coat, sleeve and other lining materials are made of artificial silk. In shirtings, where cotton is the admixture, it is found that it is this part of the yarn which wears first, not the silk.

The perfectly smooth surface of artificial silk goods does not retain dust or dirt, so that when chosen as a medium for underwear, shirts, linings and furnishing fabrics, this is a great asset. Dust does not sink into the material and dirt easily washes out of it. The cellulose acetate yarns absorb very little moisture, and are found to be proof against sea air and water, tropical sunlight, perspiration, etc. They are invaluable for use in hot climates. It is also claimed for them that they admit the health-giving ultra-violet rays from the sun more readily than any other fabrics, and that perfect insulation helps the wearer of this kind of artificial silk to maintain a comfortable temperature, equally in summer heat and winter cold. It has been demonstrated that table linen, toilet sets and bedspreads made of artificial silk, with a shiny damasklike surface, not only remain clean than those of ordinary linen, but require less laundering to make them look nice. Artificial silk has one peculiarity and that is the way in which it is affected by dyes. But this very prfint is one which has really added to its charm, for chemists have concentrated and experimented so much along this line that nowadays the most wonderful results are obtained with what is termed cross-dyeing. It was discovered that certain dyes were taken up by real % silk, while the artificial varieties remained quite untouched by them, and vice versa. Several dyes were absorbed by both, but in varying degrees of shade, and so all this brought about the wonderful contrasts of colour in one material, which are, perhaps, exemplified most clearly in the dress fabrics. These materials which have, say, a ground work of real silk or cotton, and a pattern of artificial silk, are woven in what the trade call “grey’’ (.but which we should dub white), and are then passed through the various dyes so that each yarn will assimilate its own particular shade, or, as it is termed, its “varying dyeing affinity.” To sucli a pinnacle of perfection has the manufacture of artificial silk been raised that it often takes an expert to tell the real from its synthetic sister. The materials which are now made from articial silk yarn are too numerous to mention in detail. Suffice it to say that besides the well-known silks, satins, taffetas, marocains and woollen mixtures with which we are more or less familiar, it is now possible to get at a moderate price some of the most exquisite brocaded effects which, in richness of texture and design, can be honourably compared with those of the Orient, or of the Renaissance period, of which they are copies. Every season sees something new in artificial fabrics and this year is no exception. Perhaps the most outstanding are the real silk georgettes with cut velvet pile patterns, of artificial silk super imposed, and the novel matt surfaced satin which shares honours with a delightfully soft and wonderful imitation of a metal tissue.

A word in conclusion about how to treat these artificial silks when a visit to the washiub becomes necessary. They should never be put through a wringing machine nor even wrung by hand, but should be squeezed until most of the moisture has been eliminated. and then pulled into shape and laid on a towel till dry enough to be gone over with a moderately hot iron. Never hang up artificial silk things when wet, as this causes them to “drop.” Always use a cool iron, as silks having cellulose acetate in them show none of the preliminary scorching one gets in other fabrics when the iron is too hot, and so the article might be irretrievably damaged through carelessness.