CAMP OF VICTORY

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 50, 21 May 1927, Page 12

CAMP OF VICTORY

RABAT, IN MOROCCO

“I have just visited Rabat—a cosmopolitan centre which presents a great contrast to Casablanca,” says P.W. in the “Christian Monitor.” Rabat was founded about 1130, after the Moslem victories over the Christians in Spain. Its name (Ribat El Fath) means “The Camp of Victory.” It is situated at the mouth and on the southern bank of the River Oued JBu Begred, and is now the diplomatic capital of Morocco. The population is roughly about 31,000, of which about 19,000 are Moslems, 3,000 Jews, 6,500 French, 1,500 Spaniards, 1,200 Italians, and some 200 English. Here, as elsewhere in the French Zone, there is ample evidence of the work of the French. When the Protectorate was declared the harbour for instance, consisted of a small dock for lighters, farmed by small quays, and accessible only at full tide. Very different propositions are the Quai de la Douane, the wharves of Bab El Bahar, and Sidi Makhlaf, which are all provided with cranes, warehouses and offices. The value of trade passing Rabat Harbour, estimated in 1915 at 27,000,000 francs, is now well over 91,000,000 francs. In 1925, imports were valued at 79,611,622 francs and exports at 11,481,946 francs. It is here (as, of course, in Fez and Marrakesh) that one perceives the great architectural beauty of Moorish buildings, and sense the antiquity and power of the Moorish race that was—the dignity of which largely remains. What produced that race, and how far back it can be traced, involves an historical study which might even commence from the Vandal invasion and the Byzantine period, and carry on through the Arab conquest and many other kingdoms, dynasties, invasions, treaties, etc. The vast majority of us know, and probably care little about these events. We visit Morocco, revel in the beauty of its buildings, and its sunshine, exclaim at what appear oddities, ride donkeys, mules, and camels, and get obliging friends to photograph us in the act—and that, as a rule, is the beginning and end of the tale! Yet in this mysterious land of Islam there is something to be learned which goes deeper and farther into the cause and effect than probably in the case of any other country in the Eastern Hemisphere. The Moors are reserved, and possess—especially the better class —a distinct personality. To dine in a Moorish house with a high-caste Moor as host is a revelation, and not merely on account of the excellent food prepared for a guest. The chief national dish in Morocco is “kons kons” (or “cush cush”). For a family or party of seven the measured ingredients of this dish are as follow: One kilo (2£lb) of “kons kons” (a preparation of semoline), two good-sized chickens or five to seven mutton cutlets, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of pumpkin, half a pound of turnips, half a pound of chick peas, half a pound of raisins, a little boiled cabbage and onion and pepper and saffron.