YOUR OWN REPAIRS

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 24, 20 April 1927, Page 10

YOUR OWN REPAIRS

HOW TO PAPER WALLS It is the delight of a large number of householders to paper the rooms of their homes, and many would like to follow suit, but are deterred by the fact that they lack some knowledge of the ways and means which is the difference between success and failure. The first thing to do is to prepare your walls. If they are kalsomined it must be washed off clean or else the paper will not adhere to it. After cleaning off, or on a clean plaster wall, give it a coat of size or glue, first of all stopping up holes and cracks with plaster of paris. The reason for sizing is to prevent the suction of the wall making the paste dry and powdery, otherwise the paper might easily lift and come off. Give the paper salesman the size of the room, allowing for doors and windows, and he will give the correct z number of rolls. For first-class jobs lining paper is placed underneath, but this is scarcely necessary. Some papers have to be well trimmed back from the edge; there are sometimes printed slips in the rolls giving directions how to use. Use a long table with a flat edge if possible, and use a long pair of scissors for trimming. The best and most popular job is that with the butt edges—that is both sides are trimmed and the edges of each sheet on the wall meet and do not overlap. Measure the height from picture rail to top of skirting, and cut the paper about six inches longer. If a plain paper, cut a roll up at a time, but if a pattern paper, it would be as well to cut each sheet separate, matching the next one with that on the wall. This will save misakes and wasting of paper. Mix the paste with plain flour, about 21b to a room is generally sufficient, being sure to add boiling water a little at a time. After pasting the top part of paper on the table, fold it over, pull up the rest of paper on to the table, and paste and fold in a similar manner. Turn the two folded edges back a little, carry to the wall and release top fold. Then holding the two top edges, hang it straight, and with the

fingers run down the edge and see if it is level, with the wall or the next sheet, as the case may be. E.e-hang if necessary. When satisfactory, brush it down the middle at the same time brushing off each side as you go, starting from the top. This method will prevent wrinkles and air pockets- When at the skirting or picture rail, dab the paper into the wood and run the back of the pointed scissors in the crevice between wall and wood. Pull the paper up a little, and trim off on the line showing on the pasted side. If a frieze is to go round there is no need to take the paper right up to the picture rail. In starting on a room, work from a corner or from a door frame, leaving small pieces such as under windows and over doors to the last. In getting round any corners or angles there is one important hint worth remembering. Never take a full sheet round a corner. When it is found that it will take say 10 inches of paper to go up to the corner, cut a fraction more than 10 inches right down the length of paper and hang. The other piece can then be hung on the return corner. This saves creasing, bulging and other defects. When hanging friezes, cut and paste in suitable lengths. The length of the table will be sufficient.