MEDIAEVAL ALBANIA PATCHED WITH NEW.

Shannon News, 27 August 1929, Page 4

MEDIAEVAL ALBANIA PATCHED WITH NEW.

ROMANCE BEING DESTROYED. The reforms of Mustapha Kemal have destroyed . romance in Turkey. Those who still want to see the fez, the turban, and the veil must come to Albania (says the Manchester "Guardian"). But they must come soon, for Albania, like Turkey and Persia, is in transition. The fatalistic and rather subservient Turks accepted Kemal's 'reforms, which were carried Out very rapidly. Bui the Albanians are highspirited and very -independent, and so what has been swept away ni Turkey survives here —ovoii the bloodfued st.Jl exists. Nevertheless, the Albanians cannot resist modernisation for ever, and it • will not be long before visitors will be disappointed to find that oriental colours and customs have gone.

Albania is the only country in Europe without railways. It just skipped the railway age arid took both to the motorcar and' to the aeroplane. Tirana, the capital, lies inland. It can be reached in three ways—by motor-car from the port of DurazzO, by aeroplane from Brindisi, or from the Greek railway station-Fiorina by motor-car to Koritsa, from where the rest of the journey can be completed by aeroplane. Landing at the Albanian port of . Durazzo is a difficult business. The harbour is extremely shallow, and , all but small boats have to anchor about three hundred yards before the breakwater. An Italian firm has a contract' for modernising the pier at a cost 'of about £320,000, but it will take years before the work is done. From the" steamer the passenger - jumps into a rowmg-boat, where in had weather he may get a real tossing. It" was rough the day I landed, and it took half an hour before the boat (with only three passengers), rowed by four strong'Albanian sailors', reached the stone mole in the harbour. When we reached the mole a swarm of Albanian youths, wearing the fez and thinly clad despite the cold weather, took us by storm, struggling, grabbing, and then running off with pieces of luggage. By the time I reached the Customs at Durazzo I had counted 25 Albanians who had carried my suitcase and my portable typewriter. They begged for tips in Albanian, French, Italian, German and even English. The Customs and passport officials are polite, and do all they can to save travellers from trouble and annoyance: At Tirana most of the hotels were full, but I found a small room after a long search. It was bitterly cold, and, although April had come, ,the snow on the mountains reached down to the plains. On the walls of my room there were little marks where certain insetcs had been crushed by those. who ' had lived here before me. The food was almost uneatable. Nor was there anyheating, although there was electric light. ,

It was difficult to find a place of refuge. A strong wind rose and whirled up the red dust, so that Tirana looked like the Sahara in a simoon. And when the wind dropped the rain' fell, and did not crease for nearly five days. The cafes are crowded with Albanians, but there is no ventilation and the air is thick with smoke. In bad weather there is nowhere to go. But in warm, sunny weather Tirana is pleansant enough. The costumes of the people are bright and picturesque. The men wear the red or white fez, the white turban, baggy trousers, and richly ornamental jackets. Some of the women wear Turkish trousers and veil their faces. But I saw one girl of great beauty from the Kessovo distrir dressed in a gorgeous costume, who refused to wear the veil. But Western European dress is gaining, ground, and many of the educated menfolk wear European hats.