GARDEN NOTES.

Shannon News, 7 June 1929, Page 4

GARDEN NOTES.

COLOUR IN THE GARDEN.

Recent frosts have aided in adding

a depth of colouring to our shrubs, j noted for their gorgeous autumn tints. ; The maples (acers) have reached a state of perfection, and their colourings are marvellous. It is at this time y of the year that we realise the enormous advantage of providing shelter for ,* these beautiful subjects. Trees that are fully exposed have no claims to beauty, as the leaves are so badly marked and damaged by rough winds as to render them useless from a decorative point of view. A background of hardier shrubs is absolutely necessary to this type of tree. The foliage of the spindle tree is also at its best. This tree does not suffer so severely from exposed positions, the foliage is hardier, nevertheless, it will not set its oerries so freely in

unsheltered spots. One of the most at- *■ tractive sights is the masses of dogwood. The large, willow-shaped leaves show beautiful dark colourings, enhanced by striking crimson veinings and crimson stems. This hardy shrub is an attractive feature of the landscape even when the leaves have fallen; <■ the bright colour of its long stems showing effectively amongst evergreen shrubs throughout the winter. > The orange barked willow is aiso valuable for this purpose. In large shrubberies, its sunshiny colouring is always pleasing. In warm, sunny corners that most beautiful of all winter flowering shrubs (Luculia Gratissima Rosea) is fast /opening its lovely pink, fragrant heads, of bloom. The colour is of that beautiful shell pink so much admired. As it is*a little frost tender, it requires to .be planted in a sunny corner, where it will bloom the winter through, in type, the heads of bloom suggest a hydrangea, although the individual ■flowers are not quite so thickly placed. Lasiandra Maerantha grandiflora is showing numerous flowers in rich royal purple. This too, is a wonderful winter flowering subject—if given a warm corner—being also slightly frost tender. Lasiandra Maerantha, is another type with smaller flowers, and usually blooms more freely during the autumn. The former is practically everbearing, as at most seasons of the year, there arc occasional blooms to be found on it. Many of the earliest of the Erica family are brightening up the borders ’ in tones of rose, purple and white. The berries of the cotoneasters are still making a wonderful display, while nearby trees of flowering cherries are rich in autumn tints. The quiet days free from rough winds, have enabled us to enjoy their beauty for a much longer period. Work in the Flower Garden.

Strike cuttings of hydrangeas and. roses. Plant clematis, and all other climbers. For exposed positions plant hardenbergias, these may be had in royal blue, pink, and .white, and are among the loveliest of spring blooming climbers. Prepare rose borders. Plant roses. Plant all varieties of shrubs, hedge plants, and forest trees. Where the ground is not yet prepared, the planting of evergreens and macrocarpa trees should be delayed until cjirly Many {failures with these are due to planting while the soil is in too cold a condition. Protect delphinium crowns from

slugs, by dusting occasionally with soot y or ammonia. Recently planted stocks, and other things that please the palate of slugs, should receive occasional at; tention. Partly scooped out potatoes, turnips, beet, etc., placed among them will trap a good many of these pest 3. And seed sowing must now be confined to boxes in sunny nooks. Sow in sandy, light soil. To grow clematis successfully, the roots require to be planted on the shady side of the trellis. or pergola. If en a sunny wall, plant something shrubby and low growing fronting them in order to provide a shady root run. Plant fusehias, and strike cuttings. Vegetable Garden.

Plant out lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower for early spring use. These will need protecting from slugs until well grown. Lime all freshly dug ground. Dig in manure, drenching in all the green manure available, in the way of grass and succulent weeds. Lawn clippings are also useful to dig in, especially on heavy soil. Keep, autumn sown onions free from weeds. Continue to harvest and store all root crops, in order to prepare more ground for early spring crops. Treatment of Koses. Lime seems to be about the last thing many think necessary to the good cultivation of the rose, and there arc numbers of rose borders which have never known even a dusting. Bose borders particularly need the corrective influence of lime, as they so frequently receive heavy doses of manure. Ali roses are partial to a little lime, and a yearly dressing will also aid in intensifying tfee colour, especially in those of flame, and sunset shades. Unfortunately, many of our loveliest roses require individual treatment. For instance, the beautiful Sunstar will cause much disappointment unless one gives it the most liberal treament. In fact, it needs to be fed to exebss. Queen Alexandra is another much admired rose that will not succeed with, many growers. Doubtless it too, requires some special soil or treatment. Betty Uprichard does best when not too heavily manured, with soil a trifle lighter than most roses like. Then there are

those roses which require severe pruning, and those which merely require ' the dead and least robust growths cut away. Some types will flourish well under almost any conditions. The amateur will do well to leave his or her choice to the discretion of the rose specialist '•who . is , familiar 1 with the habits of specifying the eol-

of its beauty if several of its occupants are looking unhappy. Many roses are also bad starters and seem to be quite a while getting established. Sometimes this state of things is due to bad planting. Plant always at the same depth as indicated by the stem, and always see that the roots are well spread out, and that no fresh manure comes in contact with them. It pays to place a few spadefuls of a light loamy compost immediately around the roots, which enables the small fibrous roots to make a quick start. Plant very firmly at ail times, but not roughly, so as to damage the roots. If plants arrive when the soil is over moist, dig them in until such time as the soil .moves freely. Hydrangeas.

In favourable spots these handsome, hardy shrubs are still blooming, but recent frosts have damaged ail those in open borders. In order to produce line heads of blooms, the plants should be cut hard back each season, and thinned out. Autumn pruned plants bloom earlier in the season, and where a prolonged display is liked, some could be pruned in autumn and others in spring. Hydrangeas appreciate plenty of moisture, and grow luxuriantly in a somewhat shady spot that does not lack in dampness. Where difficulty is experienced in getting plants to produce "that lovely shade of blue so much desired, thoroughly work into the soil around each plant, three pounds of powdered alum, or for potted plants one and a-half pounds, to each bushel Of soil.

Where pink and red flowers are hard to produce, add lime to the soil in the ratio of one to five parts. This treatment should be applied during autumn or winter.

The many handsome types now obtainable in these showy shrubs, combined with their ease of culture, are factors which have enabled them to gain in popularity each season. Planted in massed effects, they show to wonderful advantage. A careful watch needs to be kept on them during their first summer after planting, as they often suffer from lack of moisture. Convolvulus Mauritanicus.

■There are many species of convolvulus, some most desirable, while others, on account of their too generous root run, become a nuisance as time goes on. The convolvulus family is also known under the name of bindweed. Convolvulus Mauritanicus is a most attractive perennial and may be safely planted in most positions. It is a trailing species, but does not lend itself to climbing. The plant is a real sun-lover, and/revels in the hottest places where the soil is in good heart, and it is amazing the, numbers of beautiful "blue flowers with yellow anthers which are borne upon this plant, the first appearing about the first week in November, and so continuing until shopped by frost. During the hottest months, the plant is one mass of blue, and a particularly pleasing delphinium shade ,too. Whether the soil be light or heavy, this delightful plant luxuriates and blooms abundantly, and so effective are its flowers that when better known it will be grown extensively. In rock walls, garden vases, and drain pipes, its pretty trailing habit shows to advantage, and in a large rock garden, a drift of beautiful blue is obtained by planting in massed effect. Another effective way of using it is as an edging to a raised border, which has been finished with pieces of stone or rock, where it can tumble at will. An edging which blooms so freely over such a long period proves a desirable asset to the garden. Mauritanicus may be raised from cuttings or seeds. If from cuttings, strike in spring, or a largo percentage will fail. It usually comes through the winter safely when on walls, or near the house, but may get a little touched when grown on the flat. Even so, the shoots' will commence fresh growth S as soon as "warm weather returns. Spring Bedding Schemes. Those who have not yet planted their spring flower beds must lose no time, for after a rainy period, very little can be done until spring arrives. There is a large number of useful things to choose from for a spring display. Wallflowers should not bo overlooked, and a large bed of these is always a joy edged with primroses or forget-me-nots. Then there are aubretias, double daisies, arabis, alyssum, violas, and a host of bulbous plants. Small beds are best filled with one kind of flower of a rather low-growing habit. Wallflowers look particularly well in lengthy or large round beds, and there is still time to plant anemones and ranunculi. The two latter are the most gay of all our spring flowering subjects and should be included in all gardens where the display is a first consideration. Unless the soil is exceptionally poor, no manure is necessary, but where the beds are on the level, it is advisable to add more soil in order to raise them, which is desirable during the rainy period. Most spring flowering plants grow luxuriantly enough without the addition of anything stimulating, except in the case of anemones and ranunculi, which will produce finer blooms if some well rotted manure is mixed with the soil.