THE HEADWATERS OF THE MANGAHAO.

Shannon News, 21 February 1928, Page 3

THE HEADWATERS OF THE MANGAHAO.

A MASTERPIECE OF RIVER SCENERY. ASCENT OE MT. DORA AND ARETE PEAK. “The Chronicle” is endebted to Mr G. Leslie Adkin for the following finely-written account of a recent exploratory journey through the headwaters of the Mangahao. Some nine months ago, in connection with the operation of a search party on the Tararua Range, Mr J. W. Butcher, of Wellington, and one or two other members of the Tararua Tramping Club, penetrated into the headwaters of th.c Mangahao River, and such were the attractions of the locality that Mr Butcher determined to make a more complete tour of exploration under more favourable circumstances. An invitation to accompany him was accepted by Mr G. L. Adkin, of Levin, and the third member of the party was Mr W. H. Denton, of Wellington, a veteran tramper and also a member of the Tararua Tramping Club. A start was made from the Pipe Bridge on Saturday' last, the 11th inst,., at 8.20 a.m. After crossing the clearings, Gapper’s high-level track up the Ohau was followed to its present terminus, thence through the bush which consists for the most part in this area of “the maddening maze of things” called supplejacks, to Ferntree Bend, beyond which point fhe river-bed was followed to the confluence of the head forks (noon). After lunch the ascent of the Ohau-Mangaliao divide was accomplished by 4 p.m., and t-lic descent of the precipitous 1200 feet face to the Mangahao River by 5 p.m., and a comfortable camp, pitched on Avalanche Clearing. Owing to the rapid growth of new vegetation since its formation by a great landslide in the year 1007 or 1908, this spot should now be called Avalanche Flat; only a few patches of open ground dotted with luxuriant tussocks of snow-grass in flower now exist; for the rest the flat is covered by beech (Nothofagus Menziesii) between which charming paths wind in all directions. Across the river some of the slipped faces arc now hidden by a riot of plumes of the graceful toe-toe, and with an abundance of firewood and water handy, this spot is now a camping place that for beauty and convenience would be difficult, to improve upon. The following morning showers of rain delayed a start up the Mangahao River until 11.45 a.m., but good progress was made and a point some three miles up-stream was reached by 1.30 p.m. The upper Mangahao is a masterpiece of river scenery, and entirely dif; fees" from the much less rugged sylvan charms of the upper Ohau. The bed of the upper Mangahao takes the form of a great stairway massed with majestic boulders, huge, beautifully rounded by the action of water, and embellished by floral and botanical decorations of almost infinite variety. Along the bush-clad banks flowering trees and shrubs, as well as masses of smaller flowering plants nearer the. water’s edge, combine to make a scene ,of unspoiled grandeur probably unsurpassed in the Tararua Range. In addition, one section of the valley has topographic features of a most arresting character: a series of bush-clad bluffs rise vertically to a' height of from 500 ft. to (500 ft", above the river, and on at least one of them the bush is growing on a promontory that actually overhangs the valley-bottom; another bluff has the form of a great partiallybare rock slab, square-cut and overhanging, and of so formidable an appearance as to make the traveller hurry on from under. The force of the Mangahao floods is demonstrated by the stability of the boulder-packed bed; though rounded and smooth, all boulders both large and small are tightly wedged in position, seldom if ever moving under the foot and forming stepping stones that greatly facilitate the rate and ease of travel. Some of the more massive boulders contain pot*' holes. These have been carved into them by the gyration of pebbles under the swirling action of water. The potholes are two or three feet in depth and as rounded and smooth inside as the cooking-utensil from which they derive their name. One monstrous boulder was observed to contain no less than eight perfect, potholes as well as the remnants of others. Cascades and spouts of water are of almost continuous occurrence along the boulder-filled reaches of the river, and in times other than the present drought-level these would be enormously augmented both in size and number. But the locality must be visited to realise the variety and interest of its natural features. At 1 p.m. the showers recommenced and a little later the rain became so heavy and continuous that a return to camp recommended itself.

The following day broke fine and clear, and two members of the party decided to re-ascend the river and ii possible climb to the peaks in which its head-springs rise. Leaving Avalanche Plat at. 7.20 a.m., the junction of the two headwater branches was passed at 7.40, and following the larger stream the turning place of the previous day was passed at 8.15, and the head forks of this branch reached at 8.55. On the way up-stream two species of yellowflowered senecio, the ourisia or mountain foxglove, Olearia n'itida or daisy tree, the putaputawcta (eavpodetus serratus), the eyebright (Euphrasia tricolour), as well as many others wexe seen in flower. Most interesting of all, however, was a small but perfect specimen of the shrub called the mountainholly (Olearia ilicifolia) which has not yet been included in the lists of Tararua flora by botanical authorities, but which has been found by Mr Butcher in : two localities only, viz., that now being described,, and at Mt. Hector. It is a very handsome shrub having lanceolate spinous-edged leaves, black twigs,* and bunches of daisy-like flowers. At the head forks of the main sopree

of the Mangahao, the river-bed wideua out a little and here was found a veritable alpine garden ablaze with flowers and including the species, mentioned above and others besides. About five chains up-stream from this place the south fork is enclosed between highAvails of rock and the river descends in a series of falls of a total drop of about 40ft, These falls are at an. altitude of about 3000 ft. above sea-level. From near the Alpine garden a small side stream was folloAving and though the gradient was so steep as to demand the epithet of “rock ladder,” handand footholds were secure and plentiful, and a rapid ascent Avas accomplished. Higher up a dry gully or “washout” was climbed, and above this again a small slip, and at the top of the latter the sub-alpine scrub Avas encountered. Preparations for a strenuous tussle Avith this formidable obstacle Avere made, but to' the party’s surprise the belt of scrub at this point proved so narroAv as to require only a few minutes to get through it, and the open alpine meadow was reached at 10 a.m. The rains of the previous day had cleansed the atmosphere of all smokehaze aii d a magnificent view, crystal clear, of -the intricate headwater system of the Mangahao and of the bristling peaks that, surround it, met the eye on every hand. The party found itself on the great spur dividing the two main headAvater branches of the Mangahao, and leading up to the fine sharp peaks of Mt. Dora and Arete which form the principal hydrographic centre of the Tararua Range. After a stiff climb of an hour and fi\’e minutes o\ 7 er open meadOAV interspersed with patches of very loav stunted scrub and intersected here and there by deer-tracks, the travellers stood upon the hitherto (there being no previous recorded ascent) untrodden crest of Mt. Dora, altitude about 4800 ft. From ih.s spot nearly all the main peaks of the Tararuas are visible, and on this oeasion on aecourit, of the clarity of the atmosphee, were seen to great advantage, and it AA’-as with some reluctance that the journey was resumed. A sleeping stag was seen here, but on the party getting to windward lie was up and off, and joined by a mate Avas in an incredibly short space of time silhouetted on the distant skyline. Arete Peak, 4935 ft.,*now loomed ahead and was approached by the long narroAv even-crested but easily-traversed ridge that gives this peak its name. The summit was reached at-11.36 a.m., and at various points upon its eastern slopes several small herds of deer and numerous tarns or mountain-pools were' descried. Unfortunately, the tarns, which prior to the advent, of deer oil the Tararua Range, were filled with clear sAveet Av.ater, are now muddy and foul. Arete Peak is the hiost southerly summit of the Dundas Ridge and this Avas iaoav folloAved, past tlie source of the Ruamahunga River, to Mt. Dundas, 4944 ft, its now. shattered trig being reached at 12.42 p.m. After descending to the saddle between Dundas and .Triangle Knob, where a halt Avas called for lunch, the usual route doAvn to the Mangahao River Avas followed. At the timber line the third member of the party, who had elected to explore the bush and observe the bird-life on the lower slopes of Dundas, \a\us met with, and in company the camp on Avalanche Flat Avas regained at 4.30 p.m. The next day saw the party homeward bound. Awalanche Flat Avas left behind at 7.45 a.m., and the outAvard route of the preceding Saturday re traversed, the Pipe Bridge on Gladstone Road being reached at 3.50 p.m Each member of the party A r oted territory A T isited one of exceptiona. beauty and interest, aiid iioav that th practicability, of the neAvly-discovem, route from A\ 7 alanche Flat to Arct( Peak and back via Mt. Dundas has bee. demonstrated, it should soon beconn an extremely popular one for the hard ier members of the tramping frrPern ity.