IN THE GARDEN.

Shannon News, 31 December 1926, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN.

THE FIiOWER GARDEN.

Continue filling up all available space with annuals, which require care in planting at this period of the year. Where a hoine grown supply of plants is available, the beds or boxes m which they are growing should be well watered in the evening before planting out operations are to, commence. This will soften the soil ana enable the young plants to be lifted with all their small fibrous roots, by which they draw nourishment ; and upon the undamaged condition of which depends their quick re-estab-lishment. One would, :of course, always choose showery days for planting out if it were possible, but Nature is not always kind. If it must be done in dry weather have a can of water handy and add a little to each hole before the plant is set in, which should be made large enough to take the roots easily and the bare length of the stem should then be covered to the lowest leaves. One.often sees freshly planted out plants having the appearance of standing on stilts. Press the soil firmly around tho plants ■and give another watering. If each plant is set that it stands in a slight hollow when finished, is film, and the lowest leaves are just above the soil level, then the work has been well done, and the plants , will flourish if a little water is given each plant every few days until they can stand the hot sun without flagging. Keep the ground lightly hoed at frequent intervals while the plants; are growing. ; ■' d Such flowers as Sweet Peas, Sunflowers, Shirley Poppies, Eschscholtzias, and Dimorphothecas may be sown where they are to remain. Sow Wallflowers, Iceland Poppies, Primula Malacoides, Aneriionas, and Ranunculus for the late bedding,out. These may be pricked out of the seed pans and given a place in the vege table garden where they will g row into v sturdy plants for refilling the borders when the flowering annuals are ready to remove. Cuttings; of Pansies and such things must be kept well watered during dry weather, also newly planted bearded, or flag Irises.

Dalhias And Chrysanthemums. The planting of these useful autumn subjects should now be completed. Stake the Chrysanthemums early and keep the soil well stirred amongst them to conserve moisture. About this time the plants usually commence to break, that is, produce side shoots. If the grower wishes to produce large blooms these growths should be limited to three, remove all others as they appear. The removal of these growths tends to concentrate the whole energy of the plant into the stems retained.. So long as the plants continue to look: flourishing no manuring will be required at this stage of growth. Dalhias will require very little attention beyopd an •, occasional hoeing. Stake them as soon as they are from six to eight Inches‘high, and when large blooms are required the growths should be reguI lated to three four side shoots, rei moving any others that may appear, j [ The ground is sufficieritly moist at j present for successful growth, providirig the surface soil is kept fine and I well loosened. j The Vegetable Garden. j The most important work at this j period is the ensuring of a plentiful j supply Of winter and spring “greens.”, | December and early January planting i s all-important if there are to be no gaps in this supply. Brussels Sprouts, the various Kales, Savoys, and BroeOfli want a long season of steady i growth, if they are to attain perfec- I tion. Follow the rule s given already for successful planting.' Most vegetable gardens have a crowded appearance at this, time of, the year and it may seem difficult to find room for the various now plantings. But this problem is , solved when it is remembered that many of the early crops are practically over. Probably all of the following can be cleared off within a week or two: — Early Potatoes, the first Peas, Broad Beans, Turnips, the Spring Cabbage, and many Lettuces. A certain amount of intercropping may. be done if space is needed. Intercropping means the planting of a crop between the rows of a crop that is already occupying the ground. For instance Sprouts or Brocolli. can be put in the alleyways between early or second early Potatoes. The eventual removal of the Potatoes will leave them all the room they require. As the r Potatoes are usually earthed up-these ' plants will not need to be set in so ; deeply as the soil can be filled in at the time of digging the Potatoes. To- [ mato plants may be used in the same way, also Celery and Leeks. Peas } as soon as they are spent may be re- , sown or sown with French or Broad -j Beans. A row of Runner Peas and . Broad Beans with a good space left between, provides an ideal place to 3 J grow Lettuce and other summer salad i t plants. The slight shade afforded is II very valuable during the hot weather | to bring the salad plants to perfecs : tion.

In finding space for winter greens, there is one important point to bear in mind. Ground that has been occupied by spring Cabbages and Cauliflowers must not be pressed into service. All members of. the Cabbage family take practically the same kind of food from the soil, and if replanted with the same thing the plants would suffer from a lack of their essential food. The ground for re-cropping should not be dug, just hoed; digging the bed at this time is decidedly harmful. All the Cabbage family appreciate a firm, close soil for freshly dug loose earth, is the chief cause of

widely opened leaves and loose hearts. Make rotation sowings of French Beans; these are one of our most valuable vegetables: It is not too late to sow seeds of Citron Melon, Cucumber, Pumpkin and Marrow. These will often catch up to the plants that ore set out, as the latter seem to re- ' quire a lengthy period before renewing growth. Ways of Improving Show Blooms. J Many prizes are lost at exhibitions because spikes or trusses of flowers . are staged with fading or dead blooms upon them. It is quite legitimate to remove all defective blooms and slightly to improve the flowers in v < any other way in order to improve the general appearance of them, i Naturally this work should be done in the way that it is least perceptible, a flower that shows signs of being ! over-dressed will lose points. An I otherwise fine spike of Gladioli can have the lower blooms pulled right out if they have passed their best and a camel hair brush may be used to ; ( remove any dust which settles on the 'petals. This applies to Delphiniums, ! Hollyhocks and similar tall subjects. Lupins are rather difficult to stage, as the spikes will insist on twisting ; and curling when removed from the plant. The best way to treat them for transit is to roll the spikes rather ■ closely in tissue paper and immedi- ; ately stand them erect in 'deep tins or water. All, cut blooms ..should, be staged with a reasonable . amount# or their own foliage. Fragile: blossoms ; such as Poppies, Geums, and flowers which exude a milky sap from the steins when cut, should, when cut, be held in boiling water'for a few sec- , ends, or the ends placed.on the hot: coals of a fire will serve the same purpose.- Paeony flowers are heavy and are apt to bend their heads when placed in vases, \ unless (against tne Schedule’s rules) florist’s wire may oe twisted neatly round the stems to enable them to hold up their heads. Antirihinums should be immediately placed upright in water; if they are laid fiat, the ends of the spikes will curl up and spoil an otherkise charming exhibit. A good Carnation bloom frequently has a petal which mars its appearance; such a bloom may receive a little dressing by removing the disfigured petal and returning another in itg place. Phlox,-

as and Geraniums shoul.l nave any faded flowers removed. These remarks apply also to decorative work, where anything and everything of a faded appearance, Whether flowers or loiiage, should be removed. The Perennial Candytuft. (Ibres Sempervirens.) The perennial Candytuft is not generally known 1 in our gardens, but is nevertheless a very useful subject, being especially valuable for early spring display. i So far there are only the * white and : pale pink varieties, with a dwarf variety known as “Little Gem,” which is very compact in its growth. These perennial Candytufts are largely used as rock plants, whore they groiv to a large size and often need reducing, when*a stock of plants may be procured for the borders. These flowers are produced in great profusion, completely hiding the branches and foliage, and'Where perennial plants are sought for should prove of value in the herbaceous border. Feeding and Watering. When growth is rapid, as it usually is at this time of the year, many plants will benefit by rather liberal feeding. Two points .should ...always be born in mind when feeding, the first being that the little fibrous roots of all plants can be easily destroyed by over-feeding, and the second that to bring flowers to their best colour and largest size, the plants must have enough food to carry out the worn. In country places liquid manure is easily obtainable,'but is not used as frequently as it should be. Sometimes the water supply is insufficient, to allow of its free use. This should never .be used until it- has been watered down to look like weak tea. When the gardener desires to Exhibit, it is i best to • vary liquid manures witn ! small doses of chemical manures. A j change of food is as benificial to plant ■ life as it is to animal life. There is! also much to be said for the familiar (sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of ’ soda, as they are both capital things for helping on plants that are lagging in growth. Half an ounpe of nitrate of soda to the square yard and a •quarter of .an ounce of sulphate of ammonia to the same space is quite enough to use at one application and a fortnight should elapse before a second dose is supplied. The best of all times to use these chemicals is when there is likely to be rain. Flowers and vegetables which are coming along for exhibition will derive great benefit if.these fertilisers can be just sprinkled on the ground round the plants but not quite close to the stems.

Removing Seed Pods.

Do not neglect the important work of removing seed pods from Antirihiniums, Delphiniums, Lupins, and other things as they fade and require a like attention. This is a sure method of inducing a second crop of flowers. Where it is considered desirable to save seed, only one head or spike should be retained as this will usually furnish enough seed for general requirements. The necessity for clearing am dead flowers and the accompanying seed vessels .from the .Roses is so well known as scarcely to J need mention. It cannot be too strongly emphasised, however, that the Autumn crop of flowers is greatly improved if this little task is regularly performed. It is also possible 'to keep up the supply of Sweet Peas right into the autumn by regularly picking off all dead flowers and seed pods, and by continuing to hoe them and supply them with moisture when necessary.