GARDEN NOTES.

Shannon News, 27 March 1925, Page 4

GARDEN NOTES.

Tli is is a slack time in the garden as very Tittle can be done, beyond a general tidying up, and the sowing of hardy annuals and perennials. Finish planting bulbs if not already done, and plant Japanese irises and Solomon’s seal. In the vegetable garden spare plots .of ground which have shown signs of impoverishment of the soil could with benefit be sown with a green crop such as oats, rye, mustard, or vestches, and dug into the soil when green. This method will make up for the lack of humus in the soil and the gardener cannot do better than to adopt the principle of growing his own manure. Solomon’s* Seal:

In old fashioned gardens there would always be fouiid a clump of Solomon’s seal, and wherever seen in present day gardens brings back old associations of those old gardens where ouf childhood was spent. It is one of the delight's of the early spring garden, with its tender green 1 afage a'nd peaHy drop like blossoms, and is distinctly charming when seen peeping out of a shrubbery or spreading itself under a low tree with a naked stem, a position where its fine form is seed to advantage. It is very hardy and easily grown as they practically grow themselves and do well whatever treatment is bestowed upon them, thriving luxuriantly however incorrect or haphazard this treatment may be. Solomon’s seal does not much mind what their site is whethet in the open sun or in the shade, but the latter is certainly the place where they show to the greatest advantage. There is a variety known as P. multiflorum which is better known perhaps by the popular name of David’s harp, also P.roseum which bears pi'nk flowers and has a beauty all its own. They are charming plants to use in the woodland garden and naturalise with ease, being originally a ‘native of Britain where it grows freely in the woods covering a considerable tract of country. No plant is so easily forced or gives so much beauty for so little trouble. Those who wish to have luxuriant potfuls of it in midwinter, must lift the roots now while the plant is comparatively inactive, lift and pot a strong tuft of it and divide so that parts of it will fit comfortably into a six or eight inch pot. Preference should be given to those pieces of the creeping root stock, that are furnished with plump terminal buds, for it is from these that the stems will rise. After potting plunge in ashes to the rims, until signs of

growth are seen when they must bo removed to warmer quarters and given generally the treatment accorded to

bulbs. As a pot plant it is seen to great advantage showing off the tall ‘ arching stems : to perfection and forms a most useful and charming addition to those few flowers which blopm in midwinter, if given a position in a warm sunny room. Stakes Ana staking.

It is probable that no one who sets out to tend a garden gives a thought to the part stakes and staking will play in its future successful conduct.

The primary thought of all gardening

enthusiasts is the soil, but unless uncommomly well sheltered, there comes a time when plants need some support if they are to develop to their best and withstand the weather. The subject of staking is naturally associated with flowering plants and it is

with this end in veiw-these notes are given though incidentally staking is also necessary in both the fruit and vegetable garden, Tlie secret of,, proper staking is to preserve the natural symmetry of Ike plants, this is an art requiring considerable practice'. Generally it is much too tightly done, giving the subject a bunched appearance, such work is very ugly, the inborn natural of .the plants being completely spoiled. Some families of plants can be dwarfed by being pinched in early growth, thus doing away with any need of staking* chrysanthemums are often treated in this way, and Michaelmas asters or daisies, while many annuals are so treated. It is better to stake thoroughly' than to do the work by halves, flimsy staking is all too frequent and plants might just as well be left to fall about the ground from the first as to 101 l abdut between two wobbly stakes, or tied round 3 the waist to one stake, giving an appearance

greatly resembling a child’s golliwog.

Some gardeners say staking should not be done until really necessary, this sounds feasible and would b? practical if Ve could forecast the weather; but a sudden gale may come on and plants hitherto in the finest condition are laid flat in all directions through neglecting to stake them It is better to secure all plants at an early stage of growth preventing possible disaster and disappointment. Not all types will want dealing with at the same time, some will need attention sooner than others, those which, suffer most if long delayed are annuals, climbing plants, and delphiniums. Annuals become straggly in appearance when left unStaked too long, and never wholly regain that first healthy erectness of form, climbers, when staking or training is neglected become an intertwined mass, and are so easily snapped at the base that no further emphasis should be wanted to show the folly of delaying early support. Closely bound up with when to stake a plant, is how it should be done. Briefly this should be so done that when plants reach perfection, the stakes appear an essential part of them, also stakes should be So placed in position that their tops lean slightly outwards thus allowing more space for the increased growth of stem and foliage natural" to all plants nearing full growth. The distance too, of the stake from the root or crown of a plant ahoiilct 'not be lost sight of the chief point being to avoid driving the support into the roots or crowns especially those which are valuable. Roughly stakes can be divided into two groups, branched, and straight. -Very few use the branched stakes being practically unknown in many gardens of to-day, such gardens are

the losers, for it is the use of branched stakes only which permit in many plants their free and normal appearance. To be convinced of the enormously increased beauty where branched stakes are used, readers will only need to sow two different beds or clumps of such annuals as clarkia or any others which break easily with the wind. One bed of each should be staked with straight stakes and the other with branched or twiggy sticks, within a few weeks superior results of the latter will be easily seen. Hollyhocks, Canterbury bells, dahlias and chrysanthemums all need plain stakes and in conclusion do not strangle a plant to a single stake where several ought to haVa been useci.